h100vw

Simon, Like Henny says most Insurance companoies are only looking for a CAT2 immobiliser. Fitting a remote alarm, 2-1 upgrade is unlikely to gain you any extra discount at all. You should be able to get a remote locking alarm fitted for less than £180. I would certainly sort you out, if were not such a long way to Lockerbie. Personally take the quote of 700 quid and get a cheap 'Quality' alarm fitted. Gavin

That pipe is just to make it easy for the emissions tester. No need to walk round to the back of the car! :shock: Gavin

Henny, I have the details for the GT one somewhere. I'll look them up for monday night. That would be around 400 to me. Gavin

You might get 3 hp according to VWs figures!!! It depends what engine you have, KR or 9A. You are unlikely to increase torque as the larger ports will slow down the airflow rather than increase the airflow, which would promote torque. I drove a pair of 16V Golfs last year back to back. A Dreg and an F. The D with the small bore manifold just didn't pull at the top end like the F plate. They felt pretty similar otherwise. You do need both parts of the manifold. Not just the top half. Gavin

Is the pump running and sropping all the time when the doors are locked? If so you have a leak somewhere. The pump senses the loss of vacuum and tries to keep the locks sucked down. You say both locks work. What I was asking, does the passenger door lock the whole car? It sounds as though you have a few different snags at the same time. Try disconnecting the pipe on the pump and seal the pump off. Then lock the door(drivers?). The pump should off course run and stop. Maybe twice, the second time for the deadlocking. Assumming that goes ok. You probably have a leak somewhere else and need to trace it. I had this with a 93 Passat. The pump had been running intermittently and eventually melted and stopped. The nerw pump still ran intermittently until I traced the leak which I think was by the drivers door. Gavin

Henny, what's the cost of the roadeye :?: Gavin

It could be water/damp in the cable which has frozen and stopped the cable releasing. It may fix itself if you thaw out, ever! Ultimately, dodgy calipers never fix themselves and the continuous hassle is best bypassed by fitting new ones. IMHHHHHHHO Gavin

Have you tried it from both doors? It should. If it works from the pass side you may need a new handle or the one you have reconnecting? Any noises from the pump at all. Gavin

Dude, you need to get yourself the Bentley manual. CD or paperback. It tells you where all this kind of stuff is. It is written for the American market so will definately help you. Like Henny says, there are loads of additional fuses above the fuse box which may have blown. We would struggle to help you much more, as we have never seen those mad seatbelts over here. Cheers Gavin

They are out and about up here in Newton le Willows. A little old lady 10 doors up had her bag snatched an hour ago. I'd have had him if I'd have had some shoes on. He got away in an Escort. I got the number but guess what, the one I saw was blue and the number should be on a red one? Kev, when I was at RAF St Mawgan near Newquay. It snowed twice in 4 years. Both times 2 snowflakes brought the county to it's knees. About 90% of camp never showed up. I hope your motor is still there. Have you got a sleeping bag with you? You could do the sleeping at your desk trick, like on the telly and go for the big pay rise in the morning!! Gavin

That bit you are talking about cuts off the fuel on the overrun. When the valve inside is open, air flows thru it rather than the metering unit. That causes the flap to drop and stop the injectors. Were you having the running for a couple of seconds and cutting out? I have done that to myself before with the servo vacuum pipe. The massive airleak stops the car running, except with the big shot of fuel from the 5th injector. Gavin

They are easy to fit. You only really need a 10mm spanner for the connections onto the battery. PM me if you want the lowdown including the cost etc. Gavin

Being from Yorkshire I'd agree with cheap. My wife is best placed to comment on teh quick! :roll: Easy and effective do describe the loom pretty good though. :shocked!: Gavin

I am sure that lead that you cut, has one end that twists off. Completely negating the need to cut and crimp. Gavin

The wire that is tied back is for an oil pressure sender. So that is not your problem. I doubt if the diagnostics will be connected to the oil pressure sensors. The low pressure switch turns off the light and the high pressure switch(1.8BAR) is the one that triggers the buzzer and warning light. Usually the only way to get the buzzer to clear, is by turning the ign off and on again. Sorry but I cannot remember which colour wire goes to which switch. I think the blue/black should go to the rear 1.8 BAR switch. Just out of curiosity, what were your original oil pressure problem symptoms? It is almost as if the wires are connected backwards........ Gavin

Dude, the gauge does represent what is happening in the exhaust. The fact that it changes at all would indicate to me that it is ok. They don't often indicate extremes of richness but will show sudden weak mixtures. ie When you lift off between gears and the throttle closes. Did you give the car plenty of time to warm up? Does it cycle rich/lean when the engine is up to temp? Do you have an aftermarket chip? SNS should go staraight to rich at WOT, all others and teh std one would cycle a few seconds before going rich. You would feel that, as the car would seem to lag your application of full throttle. It would do the same between each gearchange too. I just noticed you got 16PSI, that is quite a lot of boost. I do hope you have a chip fitted to cope with the demands of that amount of air!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a good chance of you doing damage to pistons if it is running seriously weak!! If you go on http://www.vwvortex.com. I am sure you'll get all teh info you need in a search without me typing stuff in. Also it will be much closer to real time as it is a Stateside based site. Lay off the gas til you get it sorted. :lol: Gavin

http://www.gt-autoalarm.co.uk/ Ther is one on teh site somewhere. http://mytrakm8.com/ http://www.mstinternational.com/ Gavin

Amount of time involved. About two hours on a ramp. It didnt take much longer for me doing it on axle stands. It's the kind of job any garage could do though. No need to sped dealer money on it. Gavin

Vw, hah, what do they know about G-laders???????????????????????????????????? :?: :mrgreen:

If the buzzer is going off it could be a instrument pod defect. You could do to monitor the oil pressure with a gauge, just to make sure you are not chasing your tail. Gavin

I don't know of anyone doing them in the North East mate. I'd just take it off and send it to Gwerks. As a minimum you want to change the timing belt on it. That'll be close to its last legs by now and at less than a tenner, cheap insurance if you need to save up to have the whole job done. Gavin

Jesus, 270 quid for a cambelt change!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It doesn't cost much more to have one done on a 20Vt and you need to take the bumper off most cars with them in, A4s, Passats etc. Do they have gold plated tools and stuff? :lol: I'd ring a couple more dealers nearby and see what they quote you. The prices are not fixed by VW just the delear in question. Get a breakdown of the cost as well, so you know everything you are paying for. Gavin

If you have got high oil temp issues. Cos you drive like you stole it and have a chip and pulley. You should consider an oil cooler. Even giving mine a real battering on a track, the temp never goes above 120. Without the cooler it used to do that just going to work. If you remove the heat exchanger too, it'll give your rad fan an easier life. The water system will have a much reduced work load. Gavin

Phil, oil pressure problems can be put down to a couple of easily fixed things usually. The oil pump pickup being blocked, bits of crud that develop in the engine due to missed/late oil changes or bits of gaskets etc from top end rebuilds. If the oil changes have been neglected then there is a good possibility that the big ends have suffered excessive wear. These cost 10 quid from GSF and you need a sump gasket too. If you are taking the sump off to check the pump, then you might as well change the big ends while you are in there. The bottom end, crank and bearings at least, of a 9A 16V are similar to a G60. Which I am sure you know come with 160 hp as standard. I cannot think of anyone who has an unchipped and pullied G60, which means the bottom ends are good for much more than 160. I doubt whether fitting some cams in your motor, will do any damage. If they did, another 9A motor would be pretty cheap as there are a few of them around. I got everything from under the bonnet of a 9A Passat including the box for 140 quid. If you need any torque settings for the pump or big ends ask and I'll look them up for you. If you take the pump off, it is important to torque it back up correctly, so as not to distort it and do it, and the engine any damage. Gavin

Depends on your money situation and if you can do it yourself. Mine has been on 3 years and 30K I plan to do it when the weather warms up. Would you want it to break when they only cost a fiver? Even VW have reasonable prices for stuff like cambelt changes on older Dubs. Might be worth ringing a few? Do the poly V and PS belt at the same time if you do it. Gavin