h100vw

The other sensor on the fuel distributer is a load sensor. It has a variable output which tells the ECU how far open the flap is in the Fuel distributer. This would be akin to the throttle pot on other EFI systems. Or the airflow meter on a digifant GTI. Im having trouble trying to locate the coolant temp sender on my mates 93 Rado 2.0 16V 9A, any help to locate. This is in the side of the head forward and below of the dissy. Gavin

I used a GSF gasket but g-man said it was not in good shape after he bought my Golf. Might have been cos I re-used the head bolts. I'd get a price off VW and decide from there. You could buy a std 8V headset of GSF and get the head gasket from VW? Gavin

Even in silent the indicators will flash when arming. How long are you away for? Could you leave the car locked with the keys? The immobiliser will be on, if it's in a garage it'll be safe in Cornwall...... Gavin

Get the O ring as well. Consider doing the one on the front of the head as well, while dropping the coolant out. Gavin items 1 and 3 I think. EDIT not as clever as I thought I was. :roll: Screen shot of the right page in ETKA.

No worries mate. I'll find those instructions anyway. I was sure there are more than 2 switches cos they also control the length of the locking pulse. I'll scan and email them to you or summat. Gavin

The headset should come with the all gaskets you need. Side to side play in the valve guides wouldn't stop it running. Thats just normal wear but it would increase oil consumption. Causing smoke on the overrun and startup after being stood overnight. If it were really bad the plugs would be in a bad state. Ref the intermediate shaft, that's a chuffer to get just right. You need to re-fit the crank pulley with a couple of bolts. Then the dot on the outside should be lined up with the notch on the crank pulley. Then you rotate the crank pulley back to TDC, before tensioning the belt. To double check it, look at the rotor and the notch on the dissy body. I have always thought it to be too complicated. If you get it a tooth out, the car will run a bit funny when you start it up. You can recover that by setting the ign timing again and rotating the dissy. No sweat. New head bolts are a good idea. Although I have re-used them in the past many times. Very sorry to hear about your girlfriend, that's bad news. Sorry, not qualified to advise on matters of the heart. :cry: Gavin

bcstudent, One of the thingies you describe alters the control pressure and therefore the mixture. It's similar in operation to the Fuel Pressure regulator on a KR. The other bit I am not sure of. The book is in my car so I'll look at work for you in the morning. mehtasvr6, I'll get you an answer too. Gavin

There should be a socket for the touch key. I often fit them in the glovebox but yours could be anywhere? When you swich off the alarm after it is triggered the LED flashes and then stays off briefly. The number of flashes relates to the trigger. If the status light is out the car should start. Flashing means the immobiliser is set. I think doing the battery will help you. You might need to recode your transmitters to the alarm. You can do that by flicking the switches on the black box. If you can't wait for me to find some instructions, try 01257 249928 electro systems. Gavin

Try disconnecting and re-connecting the car battery first. That will probably reinstate the operation of the remote. The most likely reason it sounds as soon as you set it, is a bad door, bonnet or boot switch. My favourite would be the bonnet. Find the switch and disconnect it. set the alarm. If it still sounds check the boot light is out. The status LED should tell you what the trigger is. I am sure that I have some old instructions in the garage if you need to know what the flashing means. Gavin

How did you do that mate. In non-geek terms please. Gavin

IM shaft does turn the oil pump on 8 Valvers too. But with it being likely it was a G60 I thought the dissy was as good an explanation. Gavin

the gasket kit costs that...Probably more. 150psi upwards is good. I dont have my Bentley to hand but as long as they are all within 10% the motor should be solid. Leakdown, like you say pressurise each cylinder and see if/where the air comes out. Breather is the bottom end. Exhaust or inlet manifold is the head.

You are £50 up then at least. Got to do a compression test or leak down test, before having the head off. An old boy once told me that all engine snags are electrical until you prove otherwise... Gavin

hope you get him in time

Don;t have that head off, have you seen the price of a gasket kit for a G60. Do the easy and cheap first. Gavin

I am no good with screen shots....... sorry. What do you need to know? PMing my number

got a fax machine handy?

Big guess, VR or G60. I think its a G60 and the pulley is the intermediate shaft which drives the distributer. You need to ensure that you get that IM shaft in the right place when you tension the belt up. If not the ign timing will be out. The easy way would be set the crank and cam to TDC on #1 and make sure the rotor arm points to the notch on the dissy body under the dust cap. To tension the belt, undo the 15mm nut and rotate the tensioner clockwise( I think) until the belt can just make a 90 deg twist on the longest run. Nip up the 15mm nut tight and turn the enigine over by hand, off the crank bolt or rock it in gear. Mkae sure all the marks line up still after a couple of rotations and that's it. Gavin

Turns phone off....... No really Neil, don't let it get you down. Gibber is right it'll be summat simple. In the plane world we like catastrophic faults cos they are easier to find. It's the little come and go ones that get you down. Gavin

I bet there is one in Plymouth or Exeter. Gavin

Never done one but can you not stick it on the crank pully with blutak? If it were me I'd fit the cam with pulley set as std. Then experiment with different settings until you find the one that feels best. Retard it to get more power. TBH a rolling road is the best place to set one up. Gavin

As long as the pipe between the 2 rearmost boxes hasn't been bent then you just need a BB. There will be somemarks near the axle to sho where to cut it. If you get the BB first you'll be able to see where to look. It's one piece as they fit the exhaust beofre the axle. Time and labour saving, no need to align the parts etc. Gavin

It should come off with the axle in situ, unless it won't due to the damage. In which case I'd batter by whatever means required. You can buy full systems for £300ish. What about going to a stainless exhaust place and just having a BB made? Just thought, if it's the original system there might not be a split in it at the axle. The factory exhaust is in one piece I believe. There should be marks on the over axle pipe that show you where to cut it off. You can then just fit a BB. Also, can't see how GSF can't get one for you. Gavin

Just going back to basics mate. Notch on inside of bottom pulley should be at the point of the arrow stamped into the bottom plastic belt cover. There are marks on the cam pully which line up with the front edge of the head IIRC. If evrything is OK then the rotor arm should point to number one plug lead which is markes on the body of the dissy with a notch, at about 2 o'clock. Gavin

Neil, do a physical check of the timing. ie #1 at TDC, screwy thru plug hole. Camshaft at TDC. Bottom pulley mark pointing to the arrow on the plastic cover. Rotor pointing to the notch on the dissy. If all that's good. Then I think you need to look at the closed throttle switch, is it operating and if it clicks is it actually electrically open and closed. Check the battery voltage with the engine running. My syncro ran parp when the alternator quit and it was just on battery. Would love to come and help but not got the time, sorry. Gavin