fendervg

On a good note, I just replaced my sunroof motor with a spare I had, and I have a working sunroof again - afraid to use it though in case it breaks again or it starts raining!!!

As an aside, I have a spare rotor arm, part# 052905225C, which I bought by mistake - ETKA says it does most Corrados (not VR6) if anyone wants it?

Going over everything again today - have both spare relays 109 and 67/167 to hand, a new fuel filter, and will pull and test the pump as well. Getting 3.5 bar pressure at the rail with engine running, 3 bar residual with ignition turned off, even after 30 minutes VCDS shows no faults. If left to idle for a while, engine just cuts out - no fault codes in VCDS. This time it started again straight away. Left it running at idle once up to temp for a good while - twice it has cut out and started again, the third time it won't start from hot. If I leave it for a while now, I reckon it will start again.

Also check your fuel filter and relay 67 for the pump

Check out my thread for fuel pump fun. You can try testing the voltage at the pump electrical connector.

I bought 288 callipers and carriers new from VW a few years back, so they should still be available, but unfortunately at a price.

Ok - will give VAG a ring on Monday - but my old trusty dealer that I had built up a good relationship with is gone now, and VW distribution in Dublin has been taken over by a faceless entity only interested in selling new cars called, ironically enough, Karmann Volkswagen! Ask them for a Corrado part and you will be lucky to get an acknowledgement that it was even made by VW in the dark distant past, and then this is usually followed by "part no longer available here". But I'll try anyway...getting angry and depressed now.

Even the various suppliers don't seem to know the answer. My suspicion is that the 2.8 AAA engine is 3 bar pressure, and the 2.9 ABV is 4 bar, at least that seems to be confirmed by ETKA. The only 4 bar pump I can source is a VDO one, http://www.ottocarparts.com/shop/parts/13693-vdo-fuel-pump-e22-041-060z.html, part#E22-041-060Z, which is a direct replacement for VAG#1H0 919 651 Q, and only that part number. Now the crazy thing is that the Pierburg fuel delivery unit which is rated at 3 bar is also listed as a replacement for 1H0 919 651 Q - but also some other ones, which correspond to Golf VR6s and Passats etc. with the 2.8 engine. Surely the same one can't do for both, or there is an error with parts listings. There's also a Bosch one, but I've read on here that the fuel gauge sender won't work with this one as the part has changed.

Have ordered a new rotor arm and cap, and have a fresh set of leads to go on - let's hope the hall sender holds up and I don't need to replace the whole thing - they're not cheap.

Ouch - better be careful then. I do see a red mark on the dizzy at about 11 0'Clock that is aligned with another red mark on the head, so that could be a guide mark or something...

Have one but it's in Ireland - best wait and see if anyone closer to you has one.

The mystery deepens in relation to parts - ETKA lists a Pierburg fuel delivery unit for a VR, but with a VDO 4 bar pump inside it. The FPR is definitely supposed to be 4 bar, there don't seem to be any other options. The replacement Pierburg unit I was assured is for my year/chassis number is listed as 3 bar! Looks like I will need to pull the pump unit and get some part numbers - or does anyone have any out to confirm? To make matters worse, I found an old fuel rail lying around, and this had a 3 bar FPR in it, but I'm not sure if that was from a 2.8 VR6 off a Golf or the like.

Here is the picture with the mysterious screw. As an aside - is it a big deal to remove the distributor - looks like it's just two hex bolts holding it on, but do you need to line up stuff when replacing?

Thanks Rob - no worries. From what I've been reading: OBD1 2.8 AAA cars have a 3 bar regulator (Golf, SLC etc.) OBD1 2.9 ABV have a 4 bar regulator and run at 3.5 bar, 4 with the vac hose disconnected, this is what I get I've double checked ETKA and cross-referenced the Bosch part numbers and I have the correct FPR. What I don't know is if the vacuum pressure reading is correct.

They've all been replaced, so should be fine. The cars seems to cut out when idling and then won't start for a good while - there's no error codes in VCDS - I can pull all the values from it if anyone thinks it would be helpful or could assist in interpreting them.

Anyone? Am really stuck here.

Checked mine - no screw - I'll post a pic later of the exploded parts diagram though.

Suspected as much! I did however also find a VW diagram that shows a screw holding the rotor arm on - would have to rotate the engine or remove the distributor to get at it though...

While investigating my fuel system (separate thread on here) I decided to take a quick look at my distributor - not good, unfortunately the casing part where the hall sender socket is has broken away due to plastic fatigue - still seems to work, no errors when scanned, but will have to do something about it. My question was - is the rotor arm glued on? It doesn't seem to want to budge at all, and I don't want to destroy it by taking a screwdriver or pliers to it? For anyone that needs them, the part numbers I have found are: Distributor arm - 021905225B Distributor Cap - 021905207 Distributor - 021905205AE

Vacuum test shows 46 hg vac at idle, which converts to 22 PSI or 1.5 bar - at least I think I have that right - what should I be seeing? The engine seems to be flooding and not starting from warm as well - so I'm thinking injectors, fuel lines, fuel filter and is there a valve somewhere else in the fuel system?

There could be a spring on either side of it as well - try sliding something very thin, like a putty knife in on each side, and then pull gently - at least that was how it was done on the one in my old MkII Golf.

Ok - so here are the results of some more testing this morning. With the engine running at idle from cold start - constant 3.5 bar, this agrees with VAG specs and the Canadian source in the link above With throttle variations, the pressure varies slightly up or down. The behaviour is the same when warmed up and running the standard cycle With the vac hose on the fuel pressure regulator disconnected, pressure rises to 4 bar, also seems normal and as expected. When I turn off the engine, pressure drops to just above 3 bar, but then gradually rises to just below 4 bar? Strange. Will leave it sitting for half an hour and then see. Will also do a vacuum test - does anyone know what values I should be getting on the vac test?

Found this: http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/vr6_fp_test.html and it says 3.5 bar running and 4.0 with the FPR vacuum hose disconnected. Gonna do a few more tests.

Ok - I found two fuel pressure testers - one I can't make head nor tail of the dial on, and I'm not sure it's working properly, and the other for K-Jet systems - this measured 3.5 bar with the engine running, but it leaks very slightly, so I won't get a proper residual reading. From my reading of the Bentley I should be seeing 4 bar? Anyone know what the pressure with the engine off should be, or will it just drop to 0 gradually over time? The Pierburg replacement fuel pump I am looking at is rated at 3 bar.

Lads, really need some help here. I can get a replacement for the whole fuel pump unit for €340, but don't want to spend that kind of money if I don't have to. The fuel pump relay will cost €10, but this was already replaced 2 years ago with a new VAG one, so not sure, but willing to try it because it's cheaper. Or I should I just take the risk and try to do a fuel pressure test tonight to see what's happening and what kind of results I get? My gut feeling says the last option, and I think it's not holding residual pressure somewhere, but I would have thought a new pressure regulator would have helped there... Can I pull an injector to check the flow pattern without removing the intake manifold? It's my daily, so I am kind of stuck. Any ideas appreciated.