Jump to content

fendervg

Subscriber
  • Content Count

    3,279
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

Everything posted by fendervg

  1. All old brakes will squeal - sometimes even new ones. Overheating would be different. The squealing can usually be sorted with copper grease on the backs of the pads, fresh grease on the calliper sliders (new rear pads should come with some in the kit) and a chamfer ground on to the pad edges - but eventually they will start again. It's bit like banging your head against a wall so your mileage will vary. Believe me I've tried.
  2. Your first issue could be one of many things - do a search on here and eliminate them one by one. A faulty crank position sensor will mean the car won't start at all. I'd say get someone to read the fault codes from your ECU first. Your brakes will get hot anyway after a drive - but if it's excessive the callipers could be seized - is it the front or the rears (the rears are notorious for it - especially the handbrake cable mechanism). You can clean and refurb them or replace. Many put on 288mm fronts and Golf MkIV rears - also plenty of information on that on here. To be honest, if it was me I'd bin the drilled discs and pads and replace with good quality OEM or after market (ATE or Pagid) parts. If you want to pay a premium, pads and discs are still available through Volkswagen dealers.
  3. The original VAG or Pierburg parts number for the whole assembly should be on the round white lid that sits under the plastic flange on top of the tank. There may or may not be a part number on the damned pump itself. Thanks for looking - I'll let you know how I get on. My parts contact has asked Pierburg the 3 or 4 bar question and apparently they are pretty good at coming back to him. Best of luck with yours.
  4. That's what I thought. I just have to pay the extra postage to and from Ireland.
  5. In that case I'd recommend the Hella one - got mine here - http://www.adrad.co.uk - part reference VW328 - shipped to Ireland for £115. Dealt with a guy called Kevin. You'll also need to replace the radiator neck and seal as a precaution if not done recently and if I were you I'd check out the radiator temperature sender as well.
  6. Fair enough - you'll need to do a flow test with a measuring jug and check the spray pattern as well after you clean them. Don't smoke!
  7. Have you checked out Mr Injector? They do a full refurb and test service - that's where I'm planning to send my second set when it arrives.
  8. Do you want to pay the p+p and I'll send it over to you?
  9. I bought a new Hella one for my VR - good quality and no issues with it. Valeo are a good brand too. The aircon cars have a different radiator thought as far as I know - maybe someone can confirm - I don't have the family album with me at the moment in work.
  10. @dox - what part# is your pump btw?
  11. Would be great if you could check your pressure to have something to compare against. Hmmm - I'll check the wiring to the relays as well to be on the safe side - although both my alarm and immobiliser were installed very neatly the last time I looked. And when it cuts out, neither are engaged. But it's worth a try - cheers.
  12. It's a VR6? You shouldn't hear it with the engine running, and without, only in the tank area. If it's another Corrado with a two pump system, one of them could have failed, making the other one work harder. Either way a noisy pump is not a good sign. Replace your fuel filter first if you haven't had it done recently - it could be as simple as that.
  13. Have you tried VW and VW Classic Parts? Always worth a try first.
  14. ARZ Tuning have some screws on their site as well - I never had a problem getting individual ones from the dealer, and I used to order direct off a VAG dealer in Germany - sadly they don't have an on-line shop any more, as there used to be parts available in Germany on the dealer network that showed as long obsolete in the UK and Ireland.
  15. You can get the lot from the dealers if you can dig out the part numbers on ETKA and wait for a while - they don't cost much and at least you'll have the right ones. The Halfrauds ones are a rip-off, and don't match the OEM sizes exactly, but will do if you're stuck.
  16. I've replaced the crank sensor with a second hand replacement - waiting on a new one to arrive to be on the safe side. I'd love it if someone could put a pressure tester on their fuel rail to confirm if it should be 3.5 bar or 4. The pressure does not drop when the engine cuts out - it's more like the engine is flooding - I'm beginning to suspect the injectors, and am waiting on a set to arrive that I can send off to be tested and refurbished. Only problem is I have no car now for at least a week, maybe 2.
  17. Will pull my ECU later today - I have EDL as well, and ETKA lists 2 different types of ECU, early and late, and they are also different for right hand and left hand drive.
  18. This is the pump unit I have. Must be the original one. [ATTACH]82115[/ATTACH][ATTACH]82116[/ATTACH]
  19. Hi all - looking for the two spring clips in the center tunnel section that hold the gear lever surround on if anyone has some. Many thanks.
  20. Great news that you found the problem! I'm still hunting down mine: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91938-VR6-ABV-crank-position-sensor-question-now-fuel-pressure-issue. It's always worth checking the wiring on an older car, especially if dodgy alarm fitters have been near it - although I hate trying to read VW wiring diagrams.
  21. Yep, mine is rusted and just hanging there as well - happens with age and that area just collects dirt and water as it's exposed with no arch liner to protect it - just cross your fingers when you're filling up and you'll be grand. You could use some conductive glue to put it back on.
  22. Ok - 10 volts at the pump, so all good there. Replaced the fuel filter, no difference in pressure. Swapped out relays 109 and 67/167, same issue as before. Pulled the fuel pump to verify part numbers - we've got a unit (the complete fuel delivery unit) with lid, sender for fuel gauge, pump and swirl pot with Pierburg on it and the part number 535919051A on the lid. This part number is obsolete, but was comprised of: - fuel pump191919651 - fuel gauge sender 535919673B - flange 535919679 The replacement pump appears to be 1H0919651Q, 4 bar VDO unit, but needs a new sender for the fuel gauge, 5359191673C. Will check this out with VW tomorrow.
  23. You won't hear a VR6 pump prime as it is in the tank - there is no secondary lift unit like on the other cars. You can feel the relay energise if you put your finger on it when you turn on the ignition.
×
×
  • Create New...