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@lilfuzzer - yeah, the 535 numbers are all left hand drive - 1 H0 for the right handers. No worries, I will put a call out on the "Wanted " section and see what comes up. Thanks for looking.

Is it a VR6. G60 or 16V etc.? Different mechanisms on them all. The VR has an automatic belt tensioner, the others are usually adjusted with a tensioning bolt on the alternator. First thing I'd say is what is the quality of the belt, second is take the the belt off and see if you can move things like the water pump or alternator by hand. It could be that one of them is sticking.

It's a common enough deletion if done properly from what I've read- but maybe others here can comment, some may even have it done on their cars. Mine is still original. The PCV/activated charcoal/carbon cannister system all seems to be emissions related. You may have a vacuum leak causing erratic idle. It's easy enough to test with a pressure gauge.

Good advice. If you need wiring diagrams, send me a PM.

Not sure - many people go for a MkII Golf diesel gearbox mount - I'll see if I can dig out the part number.

You're missing either an earth somewhere, or I'd go for the fusebox as the culprit - are they definitely seated correctly at the back? All the looms terminate on blocks behind the box, and as said above are held in with a plastic retaining clip. This is often broken. Also check your radio and alarm wiring for shorts. There are a couple of earth points behind the lower passenger side dash and near the fusebox - check that they are secure and clean.

Thanks

@lilfuzzer - just pulled my old ABS ECU - I'm looking for part#1H0907379E if you have one. Cheers.

Thanks for that - I have Series 12 on record now - here in Ireland they're saying in the info that the next car on the 24th is a Panda?

I just go with VAG OEM mounts every time - have done this on a Golf GTI MkII, Audi Coupe Quattro and now the VR6 and have had no problems - you'd be surprised at the improvement new OEM mounts make versus 20+ year old perished rubber, and in many cases nothing more is needed. Uprated mounts always come as a compromise, the original design was carefully thought out to be a good middle ground and is not bad at all. Keep the uprated stuff for racing/track use only I'd say. Beware that the additional vibration transmissions and harmonics will now make lots of things rattle and loosen as well. Just my opinion.

Which discovery Channel is it on? I'm on UPC cable here in Ireland, and I can see series 9 of Wheeler Dealers listed in the episode guide on Mondays, but no mention in the descriptions of a C. There seem to be loads of them on and I want to be sure I'm recording the right series as we're low on disk space on the DVR.

Does anyone know the date yet for certain?

You'll need to get VCDS or VAG.com on it and scan - PM me if you need to troubleshoot the ECU, I have some detailed instructions but they are in German! If you can talk to the ECU at all it's not likely to be at fault - more likely to be wiring or dirty connections. I'd check that you are getting a spark at each lead first, then the lead to the coil pack, and then back to the ignition control module.

Hopefully this will help someone. The VAG OEM part numbers for early VR's with distributors are as follows: Distributor arm - 021905225B Distributor Cap - 021905207 Distributor - 021905205AE I'm not sure if you can still get them from VAG, but they are made by Bosch anyway, and can be got with the following Bosch part numbers: Distributor arm - 1234332426 Distributor cap - 1235522449 Distributor - 0986237642 The distributor is an exchange part as they rebuild the old ones, and comes complete with cap and rotor arm. The cap has the black interference suppression shield on it that earths to the distributor body. The rotor arm is glued on and will have to be coerced off (there is a rumour that some of them may be held on with a screw, but I've yet to confirm this). The Hall sender is attached to the distributor and is not available separately, although Bosch must have them to do the rebuilds. Any Bosch supplier should be able to order these parts for you, and they can also be found on many German sites and on fleabay. The cap and rotor arm together will set you back about €70 plus shipping and the complete unit comes in at anything from €280 to €450 with exchange depending on where you buy from. If you're replacing these, you may as well change your ignition leads as well, including the one to the ignition amplifier on the passenger side bulkhead. There are also other options made by the likes of Beru, Valeo etc. but in my experience they haven't been great quality - your mileage may vary. Bremi seem to be an alright brand as well. Let me know if I got any of this wrong and I will correct the original post.

The seals on the master will have perished with age and will eventually give way - especially if it's bled at a very high pressure. I had a similar issue with an '87 Audi Coupe Quattro years ago and had to replace both the master and the slave to get it sorted. Your garage should at least have a decent bleeding kit, so that might help.

Actuators for central locking? You can close your windows by holding the key turned in the lock.

No worries - I bled my whole system including brake callipers, ABS pump and clutch using the Sealey VS820 mentioned above without any issues at all. Never had much luck with an Eezzibleed.

Lol: - that's what I get for multitasking. The clutch is fed by the brake fluid reservoir via a hose, so it's actually the same system. Other cars have a separate clutch fluid reservoir.

Could well be the master. I haven't checked recently but I seem to remember you can bleed both, but could be wrong. Also check the return spring and that it's not catching anywhere. The problem with brakes, like the cooling systems, is that they are sealed systems - from hard experience I have found that renewing just one component in the circuit will put an undue strain on the rest of the 20 year old system and inevitably something else will give as the system is now back to it's operating pressure. Once you mess with any one part, you need to be extremely careful. Just my two cents - but hope you find an easier solution. EDIT - I use one of these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleeding-System-x/dp/B000ROARTI - much better than hooking up to a tyre.

In fairness I would say that most breakers I've seen either have perished ones or they are missing. I had 3 missing off my own car. It's not that expensive for what it is. You can always go through VW Heritage and wait till you have a large order to get free shipping. As an aside, any VW dealer should be able to order from Classic Parts over the dealer network, they just don't all seem, or in some cases, want to know about it. At least that's what I heard from one source. ETKA even now has a link to classic parts in it - unless this policy has recently changed.

Oh well - did you try VW Classic Parts? There might also still be some in stock elsewhere on the dealer network. Or maybe get some off a breaker.

These are available from the dealers - I presume you mean the little rubber grommets that the tabs on the grille sit into. I got a few about a year ago.

That's the way over here as well.

Will also be noisier when you have a metal rocker cover versus the plastic one.

Just be extremely careful with the screw trim covers in the bottom corners if you still have them - prise them off very gently, or I've even used a bit of blu-tack to lift them. They break very easily or go missing.