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Everything posted by fendervg
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How much to Ireland?
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Will be an early MAF then I think - they're the expensive ones. I'll double check later and let you know. Are you certain that it's the MAF that's at fault? It's an expensive part to replace if it's not needed. Did you scan the car with VCDS or VAG.COM?
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Is this the early or late MAF? Can't remember the pin layout off the top of my head.
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Would need a double episode if they had done the chains!
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Yes
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Cheers Tom - no worries. That's the way the cookie crumbles :)
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Last price I had from VAG for a new wing was approx €700...
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Hi all - I'm hunting for the seal/o-ring that sits around the rear boot lock mechanism - part#535827527. I've tried all the usual sources and even sites that do list it inevitably come back with a "sorry, we no longer have that". Mine has perished and broken, and is causing the lock to stick. Thanks.
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Should have one sorted now - thanks to all for getting in touch.
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Early VR6 distributor, rotor arm and cap part numbers
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Suppliers Forum
Just replaced mine with parts mentioned in the first post - 10 minutes work with the right hand engine plastic cover removed. Worked perfectly first time. Just a note that the refurbished distributors do NOT come with a red alignment mark on the body, so just take a reference mark off the old one before you remove it and make sure the rotor arm and magnet are aligned the same way as on the old one - it then just pops nicely into place. -
Good spot. I'll be replacing my driver's side window mechanism soon so will check the wire joint. Cheers for the tip.
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Good news. At least you know the sensors are new as well now for peace of mind.
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The MkII had two different badges depending on year. The badge on the Corrado is also found on the facelift MkII Polo of similar vintage.
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True detective! Lol: It's just easier to specify in the wanted post rather than having to search for it.
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Early or late model? There are two types.
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Quite a big job - there is a lot to disconnect and mark up with labels etc. so that you can be sure it goes back in the right place. Take plenty of pictures and copious notes! And beware of the famous "refitting is the reverse of removal..."! You'll inevitably find other things that need attention on the way to getting the head off, and then you need to look at the block itself, timing chains etc. It's not worth doing twice - you may as well do what you can while the head is off - and your costs will go up. So it's kind of a decision on labour time (probably your own time) vs the cost of the parts.
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In that case it will use the alternator to tension the belt. Make sure you have a good quality belt and check for free movement on all the pulleys and bearings (alternator, water pump etc.). There is also a trick with talcum powder on the belt to make squeals go away, but that's only a temporary fix and it will come back soon afterwards.
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Have always used the Conti belts - supplied by VW.
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Hi all - looking for one of the above - ABS ECU for right hand drive cars. It's part number 1H0907379E (with EDL). My controller is no longer playing ball communicating with VAG.COM or VCDS, so thought I'd try to replace it as a first port of call.
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loads of parts for sale more parts added 02/06/15
fendervg replied to lilfuzzer's topic in Cars for Breaking
@lilfuzzer - yeah, the 535 numbers are all left hand drive - 1 H0 for the right handers. No worries, I will put a call out on the "Wanted " section and see what comes up. Thanks for looking. -
Is it a VR6. G60 or 16V etc.? Different mechanisms on them all. The VR has an automatic belt tensioner, the others are usually adjusted with a tensioning bolt on the alternator. First thing I'd say is what is the quality of the belt, second is take the the belt off and see if you can move things like the water pump or alternator by hand. It could be that one of them is sticking.
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It's a common enough deletion if done properly from what I've read- but maybe others here can comment, some may even have it done on their cars. Mine is still original. The PCV/activated charcoal/carbon cannister system all seems to be emissions related. You may have a vacuum leak causing erratic idle. It's easy enough to test with a pressure gauge.
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Good advice. If you need wiring diagrams, send me a PM.
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Not sure - many people go for a MkII Golf diesel gearbox mount - I'll see if I can dig out the part number.
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You're missing either an earth somewhere, or I'd go for the fusebox as the culprit - are they definitely seated correctly at the back? All the looms terminate on blocks behind the box, and as said above are held in with a plastic retaining clip. This is often broken. Also check your radio and alarm wiring for shorts. There are a couple of earth points behind the lower passenger side dash and near the fusebox - check that they are secure and clean.