fendervg

I think most went for CD changers as an upgrade at the time, as there were still relatively few reliable single DIN CD players available. VW did have a Gamma CD (extremely rare) that only worked with the Aktiv powered speaker system as the head unit had no end stage amp in it (probably for space reasons). I think UK cars never came with factory head units installed, most were specced by the local dealers, hence why you would see a lot of Sony and Panasonic as well as Blaupunkt units in UK registered cars.

Fleabay, as always: https://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Sony+XR5509+&_sacat=0 IMHO though the VW Gamma 4 head unit which was original equipment in Germany looks much better in a late car - quite a high spec unit for it's time green illumination, 4x25w, RDS, speed sensitive volume, telephone mute, anti-theft LED, and CD changer control. The are getting expensive though as the retro/restoration market has picked up. German ebay is the best source and make sure you get the code.

Was just over 1k, but that was 2004 with a group discount - so 1300 was a fair asking I reckon. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?5556-Was-Schrick-VGI-GB-now-show-us-yours!&highlight=schrick

Corrado fogs will be either early or late - the late ones that are integrated into the fog/indicator housing are NLA, and can't be had for love nor money - there's a guy in the states looking for over $1200 for a set of new old stock ones. Second hand they can fetch 250-300 a side if not cracked, which is the most common reason for a replacement in the first place. A lot of people have had some luck in replacing the lenses only - rakes a bit of work, but worth looking into. Plenty of info on here and the rest of the web, and there are even guys selling re-manufactured glass and refurbished units, but they are not cheap. Early seperate fogs can still be had new if you look hard enough.

There was a group buy for them on here a few years ago, does anyone remember what they were new at the time?

For Golf or do you mean late Corrado?

Ha Ha - that made me smile. I think we've all been through something similar, I know I have: 3 kids ages 3 to 8, rain, rush hour traffic on a 3 lane orbital motorway, the sweet smell coolant seeping gently out of the heater matrix and some form of dodgy hot start issue where the car might suddenly cut out and then not start again for 30 minutes. Ah, Corrados - don't you just love them. You'd forgive nearly anything when the VR is on song over 4500 RPM!

Lovely colour - glws.

Good points Dox - the codes can be pretty basic and are not always definitive, especially the valve related ones, which are rarely the valve but more likely to be with the PCB or wiring loom. I'd check sensors, rings, pedal position sensor, loom, ECU and pump unit - in that order. I'm not really sure what BBA-Reman can actually do to repair them, apart from testing and cleaning. When I was dealing with them, they first sourced a unit that turned out to be unrepairable, and I then bought another and sent it to them for testing and it checked out ok. In other cases I've heard they can clean out the valves to free them up, and sometimes carry out some solder repairs on the PCB, although in at least one case they simply swapped it out with one from another unit.

35761411 looks to be different and has the ABS pump unit integrated with the master cylinder and reservoir. RHD drive VR's have a 6 outlet pump unit located behind the coolant bottle, and a specific master cylinder with two outlets.

G60/16V user a different pump setup - the one we have here is RHD VR6 specific, Teves04. I've never seen any codes mentioning the diff lock valves , but I had outlet valve error codes on mine when it was faulty and the only thing that fixed it was a replacement pump. The real issue though is that you have no way of knowing if any second-hand unit is ok without testing it.

ABS pumps for VR6 have been extensively discussed, and are sadly hard to source in good working order. What do you believe is wrong with it? Have you pulled the fault codes from the ABS control unit? Only asking this as there are plenty of other parts that can fail in the system that are cheaper. If you've just won the lottery, VW are still selling them new for just over £1000. Other options are a second hand one, but many of those are also fauly, or some have had luck getting a company called BBA-Reman to chekc them over and refurb. however the feedback seems to be mixed. This will still cost you a couple of hundred with no guarantee that the donor unit is repairable. Some have opened them up and noticed that bad solder joints on the PCB on the bottom could be causing the problems and have had these repaired. Or, ever more popular, is to do an ABS delete, or upgrade to a later more modern system from the Mk3/Passat, but this is not a two spanner job and you need to source the parts. Hope this helps a little with the options, you might get offered a part on here, or other helpful info.

What type of engine C is it for as they are different - G60/16v/VR?

Are the solenoids and hoses new or did they come off donor cars? Cheers.

Hey Keyo - where exactly do the solenoid valve and hoses go? Interested, but can't seem to find an equivalent on my car unless it's under the airbox - nothing deleted as far as I know. I did read that the pcv system was different on later cars though.

Stick me down for a set as well please. Classic Parts should know that the potential market is a lot bigger than just the forum and the UK as these parts are not RHD specific.

Actually it's not that bad as we don't use salt on the roads in winter, just grit if anything. Most older cars get neglected though. Yeah, Kev was one of the core users on here, part of a group of which most have left - he sold up a few years back for a MkV R32 I think - over the years he did pretty much everything to his Corrado, from super charging, VRT and R32 conversions and always had something helpful, funny or controversial to say. He still checks in from time to time.

No worries - was only joking! Used to have a lovely 3 door Atlas Grey big bumper 8v and wish I had held on to it - was an original Irish market car as well, which is a hard thing to find.

Get a cover or a carcoon - or, seeing as the Gold panels are that cheap, swapsies and leave that outside! You know you want to...

It's two on the heater unit itself, and one for the air duct from the blower motor (this doesn't necessarily have to come out if you take the dash out, but with dash in you'll need to move it).

Stay away from Topran, especially for the heater matrix as you won't want to get in there again in a hurry! Had bad reports about Topran oil coolers too - Valeo and Hella are the best if you can find them.

There's definitely two, kind of one above the other, and another holding on the duct from the blower - trying to find a pic for you but no joy. Have a look at these links as well: https://www.vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19713 https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/engine-general/heater-core-replacement-on-a-b3

It's not a difficult job in and of itself, but time consuming because there is so much that needs to be moved to get access, and the potential for breaking hard to replace parts. It's a lot easier on a Mk2 because the centre console just lifts out. When I did it took me 2 days, but with practice I've heard it can be done in about four hours. Mine was made more difficult because one of the shoulder nuts in the bulkhead was spinning in place and it took a long time to finally figure out a way of removing it.

Ah, shame you are moving on the C - best of luck with the sale and hang on in there, you'll be back with another one soon I'd say.

You can do the heater matrix with the main dash frame in the car - if you want remove it, there are some screws (x2 I think) on the engine side of the bulkhead. Before you do anything, make sure that you can undo the two shouldered bolt/nuts that hold the heater matrix to the bulkhead and are fastened on the engine side. Then you need to remove glove box (pain in the back side unless it's been out before or modified), a metal bracket to the right of the glovebox, all lover trim panels left and right, air vents and housing, radio, ashtray, heater control panel, top vent tubing and clock fascia and vent there. Then the ducting that runs from the blower motor to the right of the matrix. Also check, and consider replacing the felt lining on the heater box flaps and the control cables - oh and don't buy a cheap ****ty matrix - you won't want to do this job again in a hurry. But really, google is your friend - there's plenty of info and how-to's out there (a search on here is useful too) and it's essentially the same job as on a Mk2/3, except access is more tricky.