fendervg

Practically everything is now made in China (possibly assembled elsewhere) - thing is you get what you pay for with the factory and the manufacturing process, and this is reflected in the final retail prioe. A Chinese manufacturer will offer to make the part at a few different price points and levels and although they may look the same they will vary in quality dependent on the price - one thing is for sure, they will not turn business away - so if you ask for e.g. a MAF for 20 quid, it will still get made at that price point, but you'd be taking your chances. So made in China is not necessarily a bad thing at all if it's at the correct price and quality level - the problem is how to ascertains this, and some will rip you off by selling you low grade components at premium prices.

Unwound paper clip for adjusting dash clock! Not really home made, but a hollow ratchet spanner and socket for bleeding brake nipples - very handy and a little Victorinox (Swiss Army knife makers) ratchet handle with a screw driver bit for getting at those hard to reach screws in the dash vents.

Topran are rubbish, nothing but cheap copies with inferior materials and dodgy tolerances - like most things you get what you pay for when it comes to parts. It's why Bosch, Hella, VDO, ATE etc, stuff is expensive unfortunately and becoming harder to get. I've been burned in the past with radiators, heater cores and oil coolers (not on the Corrado, but on Mk2 Golfs) bought from discount European car retailers and had them fail either immediately or within a couple of weeks and had to replace with OEM VAG or equivalent parts from OE suppliers. The problem for us Corrado owners now is that the quality parts are getting scarce and it looks like we will just be left with the rubbish ones.

I guess this is personal preference really - as above, I'd definitely go on the overall condition of the rest of the car first. You can always buy a leather interior or get the cloth recovered in leather, which will be like brand new. My opinion is that a a sports/luxury coupe it should have leather, and makes them more desirable - the cloth sometimes lets the VR down. The US ones had very nice half leather interiors.

No - with the engine not running, nearly all the oil will be sitting collected in the sump at the bottom of the block. I've replaced these and the oil cooler without draining. You might get some slight weeping, just clean it up as you go.

Can you repair it by soldering the wire on?

Interesting - that means it probably sat around unsold for nearly a year. To be fair - once your are talking 20-25 years old, the fact that a car is a year or two younger than another is of little importance unless there is something model specific you are looking for that only became available on a certain date - I'd be much more interested in the first VR6 to be registered in the UK rather than the last! ;)

They were very slow to sell at the end, so there's a few late ones around - it'll be a late 94 or 95 car I;d say.

Yeah, interesting to see - here's another great book that has many of the same pictures and more besides - German only though. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=9783958431423&i=stripbooks&linkCode=qs

I used to own an 87 Coupe Quattro Type 85 with the I5 KV naturally aspirated engine in it - made about the same power as a 16v Golf, 136 or so. What a car - the only one I'd like to have back. It had the same quattro drive train with a bulletproof k-jetronic engine - not nearly as powerful as the Ur with a turbo, but more practical and nearly as much fun. There were actually less CQs produced than there were turbo cars. The later shape like the S2 always looked weird to me and a little bit dated, but they are a great car.

Those tabs are a real pain - one is broken on mine and I tried to bond it back on, but it broke again in no time. I wonder if you used plastic or fabric/felt washers and made sure not to over-tighten the screws, as they seem to break when unscrewing?

lol: Some horrible looking plastic surgery items on that site - good for hiding rust though.

@dragon green: that's some collection of indicators there - nearly one for every day of the week! I suppose the Inpros look reasonably close, but I think it would depend on the condition of the head light lenses - didn't Inpro do headlamps as well?

Interesting - the angle on the fogs looks all wrong though, like they are recessed too deeply. Better than nothing maybe.

Yes, he does very nice reproduction glass/plastic lenses and is currently working on a new version - but I think at the moment you can only use LED bulbs in them for heat reasons - but the feedback has been very good. Have you ever tried cracking and removing the old lens? Not a nice job. I'd happily pay 200-250 euro a side for a new OEM set, but not the same for second hand cracked items that you see come up very often. I think it was a poor design decision to build the fog light into the indicator housing for the later cars.

You need to source a time machine first!

Checked my old sensor there on a 93 dizzy VR and the plug on the probe is black and rounded at the edges, marked "44" on the connector and has four wires, in a 3+1 arrangement. I'll try and grab a pic and part# for you later - probably won't get a chance to check the connector on the car though.

Yes, I believe that there are at least two different plug variations on the VR and I've seen some cars with the wiring changed to take a different plug. I have a spare one that came off my car at home, so I can take a look later to check.

Don't know about the difference between the two, but the blue ones were still available from VW until very recently so worth a try and there are plenty up on fleabay. Maybe the black ones are 3D print jobbies - and in that case it really depends on the material that is used, though I would have thought injection moulding to be the best way to make them.

Yeah, I'm absolutely not an expert on this - I've only ever run standard wheels and prefer the looks and handling they give, but each to their own, so I'm sure with the correct mix of spacers and mods you can get it to work. I'll get me coat so ;) Not sure what is going on with the thread though, as the original post I replied to went AWOL,

I'd say get some more reasonably proportioned 16s - stock wheels are ET43 offset. Do you have a big brake conversion or are they standard 280/288s?

I used to swear by the Pirelli P5/6xxx series - had them on my Mk2 GTI, Audi Quattro and 5 years on the Corrado, excellent grip and feel in wet and dry, but you can't get them any more in 205/50/15 sadly. Currently running Michelin PS3 slightly stretched at 195/50/15, but have to say I'm not overly impressed. I'll be considering both the Hankook and Uniroyal Rainsports when it next comes time to change, but the selection in the original size is getting very slim. I guess that's another reason a lot of owners are putting 16 inch rims on their cars as there is a much bigger choice at decent prices in that size.

Could be a Storm-a-like? Easy to do with the green and beige cars as that combination was available anyway. Only way to find out is to check the VIN with VW.

The rollers might not fix a loose window, but are a wise check and easily replaced. Clean and grease the rails as well if you can. There is a rectangular metal runner/guide bracket on the B pillar side of the window mech that is supposed to be bonded to the bottom of the glass and runs up and down a vertical rail as the window opens and closes - if the glass was ever replaced following a break in then it's possible that this was not bonded back on as it just sits at the bottom of the rail - this will cause a lot of rattling and a loose window. It's easy enough to locate if you but your hand behind the skin on the right, locate the rail, and check bottom (loose) or top (attached to glass). Some have just fixed it in place at the bottom of the rail, as it's well out of the way, just to fix rattling, but the secure the glass properly it need to be bonded back on.

That's great news to hear - good to be back up and running I bet.