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Thanks Tony - I'll take a look later and check to see if I can find any more on it - it's kind of covered by the bracket that holds it, so will need to drop it. EDIT: on second thoughts, I have the early controller with just the single large fuse, so will need to keep looking. Are the late type ones interchangeable with the early ones by any chance?

This guy maybe? http://www.ottocarparts.com/shop/parts/113327-bosch-starter-0-986-017-000.html

I think the best bet is to get your reflectors re-coated and use a loom. Even with perfect reflectors, the voltage at the headlight will still be lower than it should be and cause a drop in the light output - this is simply a design flaw and facto of life for early VAG cars because of the way the loom is run and the current is routed through the headlight switch. For example, H4 bulb output at different voltages: 13,5V 55Watt 12V 51Watt 11V 44Watt 10V 38Watt 9V 31Watt If you go and measure yours at the headlight connector, you'll be luck to see 11V there, more 9-10V Of course some of the newer uprated standard bulbs such as Osram Nightbreakers or Bosch +150 will help too.

Well, had a scare last night as the coolant temp just seemed to be rising inexorably and no signs of the fans coming on while sitting in traffic on the commute home - another typical Corrado **** in your pants moment! Checked it out this morning and also noticed horn and aux water pump were not working - pulled fuse 13 (10A) and this was blowm, both working again afterwards. Also checked fuse 19, this was fine. Some testing and a trial run and all seemed ok and fans came on at stage 1 as expected around 90 degrees. Didn't get to check stage 2 or 3, in fact I haven't heard the after run fan for a while, so maybe this is also on fuse 13? When I get more time I'll run though the full tests, bridging the connections to run the fan etc. Are there any other fuses on the fan controller unit apart from the mother of all fuses which is basically a big metal bar? I seem to recall seeing some pictures with 2 smaller blade fuses as well?

Ha ha - 535-$$$$-£££££-€€€€€ is how it shows up on their ETKA screen - that is, if it's not deleted in 1998 or NLA.

Ha ha - photo is not attached or held on the forum, it's on a website somewhere else and you can use tags in your post to point to the location of the picture and it will load automagically. However, some sites taka a dim view of linking to their images...

It's hosted on an external site and referenced using /IMG tags by the looks of it.

You can buy aftermarket one-piece scuttle trims - they look nice but are quite pricey, or there is a Golf Mk2 hard plastic rain tray that can be easily made to fit, and if you get the LHD version as well as the RHD it's possible to make up a complete tray.

Once you open a cracker barrel you can never get the lid back on!

Ha ha - "electrician pervert", I like that - brings all sorts to mind - the Doc from Back to the Future being one...

Ha ha - there is nothing like deep fried pork produce.....

Always keep an eye out for a tidy Mk5 GTI in case my wallet is feeling frisky. Now the kind of banter we see above is what this forum has been missing - reminds me of when I joined up around 2008/9. There's been a thread to discuss what the future of the forum might be and what direction to take, but there hasn't been much visible movement on it. I think most people were happy to donate, but not to make it a completely closed site. I work in IT, so more than happy to help out as an admin or with forum software maintenance and issues - the big roadblock for all message board platforms at the moment seems to be image hosting and associated costs - this is why most newbies just head straight for FB as they can just snap and post - but it's just so horrible and useless for knowledge sharing and searching.

Yeah, there's been lots of different types over the years, different number of relays, some do high beam and low, some both, some include sidelights in the wiring, and I've even seen an option for relayed fogs (probs not a good idea as most are afraid to turn them on in case the lenses crack!). They kind of evolved from the Mk1/2 looms and then the OEM connectors were added as the headlight casing and socket pin-out are different on the Corrado - the Golf looms just had standard H4 connector on them as far as I can remember.

Hey Kev - hope you're keepin well - nice to see you on here again. At last there is a smell of rashers in the air once more! How is the R32 holding up?

It probably won't have the OEM headlight connectors on, but I think these are still available, and you can buy a wiring repair kit from VW with the pins on the end that allows you to connect it - otherwise you end up with spade connectors, which are not ideal. I cut out the male end of the connector socket part from an old knackered headlight casing and wired it up so that the loom is plugged straight into the existing feed using the female socket - more or less the same as that German loom, but it looks like they were able to get hold of factory sockets and have one for each side for the sidelights. That loom is seriously expensive, but it is fully sealed, plug and play and 4 relay - on these dark nights it could be a lifesaver and we often spend more on less important bits. I'm tempted to start saving and buy one - I'll let you know what I think if I do.

Yeah, that last ebay one might do the trick - ask to see some proper pictures of the loom first though.

Ha ha - I'd say he only has some traces of the unicorn droppings on the floor left at this stage.

Ah ok - will give that a try. Even just read in the archives on here about it being done with the wheel on but on full lock.

I have a faulty front left sensor on the VR6 and have ordered ATE replacements (will do both sides at the same time) - just wanted to check the correct procedure and any gotchas. I'm assuming the sequence will be something like: - jack up and support car - wheel off - loosen and remove calliper - remove pads - remove discs - disconnect cable to sensor - apply plenty of penetrating oil, wait - hammer out old sensor - clean everything - fit new sensor - assembly is the reverse etc. as the old saying goes - clear ABS fault codes Does the hub need to come off or the ABS sensor ring? I'm hoping not - as it's a fauly sensor it obviously doesn't matter if it gets destroyed in the process of being removed. Any advice/experiences much appreciated.

Depends on how much you want to spend - German fleabay has a completely weatherproof plug and play version with OEM connectors for silly money: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Relaissatz-fur-VW-Corrado-Plug-Play-2-0-zur-Lichtverbesserung/182463499156?hash=item2a7bac0b94:g:AZ8AAOSwPYZU4isz I'd say you'd never need another one though! They are easy enough to make though (instructions can be found on the Mk2 forums) and if you can source the connectors you could even upgrade a cheaper one to the same spec. I built something similar for my car and it's lasted over 8 years with no problems apart from the time a coolant host burst and one of the fuses shorted out. Go for 3 or 4 relay versions if you can for extra safety.

This is why I don't like FB!

I think the consensus is that a working ABS system is better than just hydraulic and no ABS is better than no brakes! The Teves 20 is slightly better than 02/04, but mainly because it's more reliable and easier to work on. I've driven Passats and Mk3s with the latter and there is very little improvement over a well set up and refurbished standard VR6 system - the Mk4 and 5 systems are a vast improvement. If you plan on a full resto or strip down, then it makes sense to upgrade if you can get hold of the parts, but don't expect miracles. As I said earlier, I think if you replace or refurbish the master cylinder and make sure that there are no leaks from the servo and piping, a lot of the sponginess we are used to goes away. Problem is that you can't get the master cylinders new any more.

The 2.0 8v system shouldn't be that bad - it's a more reliable systems than the VR6, which is where most of the trouble lies. Do you have an all in one ABS pump and master cylinder assembly?

AFAIK - if there is not a trace of the previous ABS system to be seen, i.e it has been removed completely, it will not be a fail. I've heard of passes where just the ABS light has been removed, but wouldn't chance it. Teves 20 is a good bet, but hard to find at this stage. It won't give you much better braking though, just more reliable ABS with easier parts availability. Just replacing or refurbishing the brake master on these cars makes a huge difference as the one that's there will be 20-25 yrs old and the seals will be weeping. There was a long discussion about this on here before, and the consensus was that you will never get a modern brake pedal feel on a Corrado without a lot of work and fabrication to the pedal, cylinder and servo as it's a matter of the mechanical advantage provided by the position of the pedal acting on the cylinder which is different.

Ok - so you could probably just hook it up to the coil or splice into the RPM signal to get it to work?