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Try to center it by first manually using the allen key to close the sunroof properly and exactly right, then remove the motor from the sunroof, and keep the power connected and open and close it several times with the switches - once the motor is in the fully closed position, refit and try that. I don't have any links to a motor/brush rebuild, but a search should throw something up. Personally I'd just buy another late motor - I think, but I'm not sure, that the additional wires on the later one are for remote open/close via c/l using the key in the lock.

Depends - the brushes in the motors can wear out too, especially if they have been dealing with trying to shift a sticky mechanism for a few years. I have three motors here, and only one of them will operate the sunroof completely, and it's been fully rebuilt. They are not expensive second hand - although I've seen some posts on line where people have renewed the brushes. But worth trying to center and sync it up first to see if that helps.

Great news - this shows a forum working the way it's supposed to.

I don't think there is any reason why it has to be the clear plastic hose - I remember just using the normal braided vacuum hose you can get in any motor factors on my MkII GTI with the PB engine, which is similar enough to the G60 lump. It just needs to fit and be routed carefully away from any hot or sharp surfaces.

There's also the radiator temperature sender/switch in the bottom corner of the rad, near the bottom inlet hose from the thermostat 0n the battery side.

Fill up from cold, leave the cap off and start engine, then let it warm up and squeeze each coolant host in turn a few times as they fill up, you will see air bubbling out of the expansion tank. When the thermostat opens the level will drop drastically as the radiator fills up, fill up again and check the hoses, give it a final top up to the correct level and drive for a while. Then let it cool and top up again - assuming no leaks and correct pressure it should then stay at that level when cold. Remember this is a fully sealed pressurised system to allow the coolant to heat up more, so under no circumstances remove the cap when the engine is hot, as you will have an explosion of high temp coolant in your face and all over your hands. The above has always worked for me.

Best place to stat is the "Definitve VR6 Cooling" thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide and work your way through the various items - if there are no leaks from anywhere, check the stat, fans and sensors and make sure you use a proper coolant mix - and let the system bleed as it warms up by leaving the cap off and topping up before sealing it.

Ouch, ouch, ouch. Best offer: £25! Looks like the wheel arch is about to separate too.

The handle only has the electrical contact wire on it - this operates the vacuum actuator and pull rod which moves the lock mechanism. So you need to be looking at the actual lock mechanism in the door itself. If you take the door card off, you'll see a number of pushrods that operate the latch, from the interior release handle, the knob on top of the card and the actuator.

Faulty servo or vacuum connection to it, or possibly seals going on the brake master cylinder. Have you tried doing a full bleed first?

Check the residual fuel pressure if you can get hold of a gauge - FPR is also cheap and worth replacing.

That problem with the three-way crimp in the door is a well known one, and has fixed things for lots of people. It'a worth looking at as it's bound to give issues eventually.

Here they are - bottom and top are the Wurth hose clamp pliers, the one at the top locks when fully closed to hold the clamp open, the one at the bottom has the cable and ratchet for getting at those tricky ones. In the middle is the official Hazet VW 798-5 tool, these come in lots of different sizes, but are pricey. These will save you lots of hassle and pain and lets you reuse the original clamps, thereby avoiding the use of nasty jubilee clips!

I'll take a picture of mine later and post it for reference

Yeah, these tools are the best ones to use - Wurth do two types, one with the extension cable and one without, and they have a proper ratchet action on them that works, unlike some of the cheaper versions. They're not that expensive, and make life a lot easier.

This is the old Pierburg from my car - from above. The sender is the blue plastic part on the left, and clips in differently to the VDO style - the way the wiring terminates on the sender is also different.

Yeah, ebay for the VDO sender as above, that's where I got mine, although I'm sure you could also order it through any motor factors that sells VDO parts. Not sure about your question above? The early sender will only fit an early Pierburg pump body, and the VDO one will only fit the later pump bodies. They are a completely different design where they clip on to the swirl pot.

The link to the JP should be in the thread. The Pierburg sender will NOT fit the later style pumps - you'll need a VDO type sender.

Sometimes you can get them new - check with Classic Parts etc., I know they made a batch of them a while back, and I was able to get both types from the dealer around 6 years ago.

You can just push in the driver's door lock knob on top of the door card I thought? At least on mine this locks all the doors when inside the car.

Go for the thick hard plastic type if you can rather than the more flimsy one - if you get a LHD and a RHD version it's possible to make an almost complete scuttle cover. Alternatively, there are at least three different types of aftermarket one piece panels around, which might save some hassle unless you are trying for an OEM look.

I'd be interested in the Kurzy loom and one of the reproduction headlight switches if they are still available - how does £75 posted sound? Surprised they haven't been snapped up already.

It's a tough one - if it was me I'd get a pro to inspect the head and make a call on it, and either go for a full rebuild or a reconditioned replacement head. Jim had quite a few issues with the AAA engine once he took a closer look - worth checking out his thread. Not all the ancillaries are hte same so it's not a plug and play as it might appear.

Well, we don't really know what people are paying, and very few are willing to say! A lot of work and parts have gone into this car - and the original paintwork is not a down side in my opinion, much better than a bad blow over. Having said that, most other committed owners will have replaced much of this stuff over the years as well, but would not expect to see that back. What will be a problem is the chains and clutch, as all the buying guides will mention these, even if they don't always need to be done, and I think you will find you'll have to negotiate down over them. Best of luck with the sale - I think the ball park is reasonable, and with a bit of patience you should do well.

Same here - collected ignition switch from post office this morning - many thanks.