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Fair enough - I would have thought about 200-250 for the four rims on their own. I never consider tyres when buying a set of rims and would rather buy without as you have absolutely no idea of their provenance or real condition - there's a lot more that can go wrong apart from thread depth. Better to put a set of new ones from a reputable source on yourself - they'll also weigh less for shipping!

Not sure - the listing mentions Mk3 Golf, so that would make you think they would fit. They look nice, the lip is a bit wide but I still like them over the splits. The asking price is another matter though!

They are a nice wheel, but I personally don't like bolts on wheel rims, would rather a cleaner look - if they came as a one piece I'd prefer them. What is the attraction with split rims apart from the cosmetics anyway?

A few years back I had fairly similar issues on my VR after driving up a flooded motorway off ramp - ended up being related to the wiring to the cat being wet and corroded - there's the 02/Lambda sensor, and I think there's a temp sensor too, so worth getting a look underneath and checking it out.

Not as rare as the 2.0 8 valve, if you exclude special editions.

I had a 1990 8v GTI 3-door, with the PB Digifant engine for over 10 years, and loved it - it was a cracking car to drive, and the low down torque made it perfect for a daily. It didn't have power steering, which was a but of a pain, but I retrofitted that a couple of years before I sold it on. The VR is a completely different car, if based on the same chassis - it feels much more modern and comfortable and more planted. It has wide track for a reason, so a good PAS set up and wide track conversion would be needed to get the most out of a Mk2 running a VR6 - you can always fit G60 arches to make it look a bit better. The Corrado is much, much easier to drive at speed and on long journeys (a true GT car), both both handle really well on back roads and twistys. Having worked on both and had the interior out of both, the build quality and attention to detail was definitely better on the Corrado, but it was built in a dedicated factory by Karmann as a premium car. Mk2s were built in lots of different factories and probably vary more in quality, but then some Corrados do as well. Not sure, but maybe all GTIs were built in Wolfsburg? If it was me I'd stick with the 8v or 16v in the Golf to keep the original character of the cars.

Ah lads, crazy money! Much as I would love one, a Schrick is worth no more than £1000 (there was a group buy on them on here, and the I think they were well less than that), and a VSR maybe £1500 - and that should be with all the ancillaries present and fully working order. A lot of the ones you see for sale even when they do come up don't have everything with them and can cost a fair bit to put right. Unobtainium they may appear to be, but remember that they actually do very little to the VR6 performance in practice considering how much they cost for the gains - so hard to justify the outlay at these kinds of prices. There's a smell of scene tax about it really.

Good stuff - you have me wanting to go dig those old JBLs out of storage and change mine out now.

Problem is that if you don't use it regularly now and leave it, it will definitely fail the first time it's operated after a couple of years.

Interesting - what a pain to be ripped off like that. I thought there might have been other tell-tale differences as well? I suppose there were not part number stickers or other markings on it anymore.

Ha ha, understood. Just unplug them and be done with it! But looks like both Alpine and JBL should have decent replacements for the rears.

Great story - interesting to have some background on these!

Those connectors look pretty handy if you want to keep the original wiring. I've never been much for audio builds in any of my cars, so I'm no expert at all - too used to engine noise, and once I have a working radio and can listen to some tunes I'm happy. I prefer to enjoy my music in an armchair or at a gig. But the the options are there - I guess to really make the most out of it you need things like sound mat, amps or upgraded head units, bass enclosures etc. The consensus is on the Corrado/Golf of the era that the dash speakers are pretty useless and the door pod ones are too small. Rears can be upgraded, but they actually add very little to the sound you will hear in the front. I did a little bit of research a few years ago, and the best bet seemed to be components and crossovers at the front. I bought a set of the JBL ones for my MkII years ago, but never got around to fitting them, but have them stashed now in case I ever need them for the Corrado.

JBL used to do a set of rears and crossovers for the Mk2 Golf that would be a direct fit - the rears were available separately - think they were the JBL GTO6427. You'd still have to cut the wires and fit new terminals though.

Makes sense that he might have endorsed or otherwise lent his name to a line of bikes. It would look cool in one of those ultra-rare Thule Corrado roof racks! Would be a great photo.

Try to center it by first manually using the allen key to close the sunroof properly and exactly right, then remove the motor from the sunroof, and keep the power connected and open and close it several times with the switches - once the motor is in the fully closed position, refit and try that. I don't have any links to a motor/brush rebuild, but a search should throw something up. Personally I'd just buy another late motor - I think, but I'm not sure, that the additional wires on the later one are for remote open/close via c/l using the key in the lock.

Depends - the brushes in the motors can wear out too, especially if they have been dealing with trying to shift a sticky mechanism for a few years. I have three motors here, and only one of them will operate the sunroof completely, and it's been fully rebuilt. They are not expensive second hand - although I've seen some posts on line where people have renewed the brushes. But worth trying to center and sync it up first to see if that helps.

Great news - this shows a forum working the way it's supposed to.

I don't think there is any reason why it has to be the clear plastic hose - I remember just using the normal braided vacuum hose you can get in any motor factors on my MkII GTI with the PB engine, which is similar enough to the G60 lump. It just needs to fit and be routed carefully away from any hot or sharp surfaces.

There's also the radiator temperature sender/switch in the bottom corner of the rad, near the bottom inlet hose from the thermostat 0n the battery side.

Fill up from cold, leave the cap off and start engine, then let it warm up and squeeze each coolant host in turn a few times as they fill up, you will see air bubbling out of the expansion tank. When the thermostat opens the level will drop drastically as the radiator fills up, fill up again and check the hoses, give it a final top up to the correct level and drive for a while. Then let it cool and top up again - assuming no leaks and correct pressure it should then stay at that level when cold. Remember this is a fully sealed pressurised system to allow the coolant to heat up more, so under no circumstances remove the cap when the engine is hot, as you will have an explosion of high temp coolant in your face and all over your hands. The above has always worked for me.

Best place to stat is the "Definitve VR6 Cooling" thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide and work your way through the various items - if there are no leaks from anywhere, check the stat, fans and sensors and make sure you use a proper coolant mix - and let the system bleed as it warms up by leaving the cap off and topping up before sealing it.

Ouch, ouch, ouch. Best offer: £25! Looks like the wheel arch is about to separate too.

The handle only has the electrical contact wire on it - this operates the vacuum actuator and pull rod which moves the lock mechanism. So you need to be looking at the actual lock mechanism in the door itself. If you take the door card off, you'll see a number of pushrods that operate the latch, from the interior release handle, the knob on top of the card and the actuator.

Faulty servo or vacuum connection to it, or possibly seals going on the brake master cylinder. Have you tried doing a full bleed first?