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Check the residual fuel pressure if you can get hold of a gauge - FPR is also cheap and worth replacing.

That problem with the three-way crimp in the door is a well known one, and has fixed things for lots of people. It'a worth looking at as it's bound to give issues eventually.

Here they are - bottom and top are the Wurth hose clamp pliers, the one at the top locks when fully closed to hold the clamp open, the one at the bottom has the cable and ratchet for getting at those tricky ones. In the middle is the official Hazet VW 798-5 tool, these come in lots of different sizes, but are pricey. These will save you lots of hassle and pain and lets you reuse the original clamps, thereby avoiding the use of nasty jubilee clips!

I'll take a picture of mine later and post it for reference

Yeah, these tools are the best ones to use - Wurth do two types, one with the extension cable and one without, and they have a proper ratchet action on them that works, unlike some of the cheaper versions. They're not that expensive, and make life a lot easier.

This is the old Pierburg from my car - from above. The sender is the blue plastic part on the left, and clips in differently to the VDO style - the way the wiring terminates on the sender is also different.

Yeah, ebay for the VDO sender as above, that's where I got mine, although I'm sure you could also order it through any motor factors that sells VDO parts. Not sure about your question above? The early sender will only fit an early Pierburg pump body, and the VDO one will only fit the later pump bodies. They are a completely different design where they clip on to the swirl pot.

The link to the JP should be in the thread. The Pierburg sender will NOT fit the later style pumps - you'll need a VDO type sender.

Sometimes you can get them new - check with Classic Parts etc., I know they made a batch of them a while back, and I was able to get both types from the dealer around 6 years ago.

You can just push in the driver's door lock knob on top of the door card I thought? At least on mine this locks all the doors when inside the car.

Go for the thick hard plastic type if you can rather than the more flimsy one - if you get a LHD and a RHD version it's possible to make an almost complete scuttle cover. Alternatively, there are at least three different types of aftermarket one piece panels around, which might save some hassle unless you are trying for an OEM look.

I'd be interested in the Kurzy loom and one of the reproduction headlight switches if they are still available - how does £75 posted sound? Surprised they haven't been snapped up already.

It's a tough one - if it was me I'd get a pro to inspect the head and make a call on it, and either go for a full rebuild or a reconditioned replacement head. Jim had quite a few issues with the AAA engine once he took a closer look - worth checking out his thread. Not all the ancillaries are hte same so it's not a plug and play as it might appear.

Well, we don't really know what people are paying, and very few are willing to say! A lot of work and parts have gone into this car - and the original paintwork is not a down side in my opinion, much better than a bad blow over. Having said that, most other committed owners will have replaced much of this stuff over the years as well, but would not expect to see that back. What will be a problem is the chains and clutch, as all the buying guides will mention these, even if they don't always need to be done, and I think you will find you'll have to negotiate down over them. Best of luck with the sale - I think the ball park is reasonable, and with a bit of patience you should do well.

Same here - collected ignition switch from post office this morning - many thanks.

That's dirt cheap actually - only ever going to get used a few times though in the lifetime of a car. You could rent it out though! ;)

Ah, good stuff - hope that gets you sorted. That should allow you to get rid of the rear axle bias valve as well.

It should come off no bother with a mallet and chisel/flat blade - never had an issue and have done it on 3 different cars.

But that's what annoys me about the storm - it's the fact that there's nothing significantly different or special about it apart from a name and a badge to make it limited and rare. Look at the SWB Audi Sport Quattro - now that's a special car, albeit in a different league to the C. Should the rarity value of Storms be judged by the number of badge sets that VW issued? Or maybe we should get a list of all VRs sorted by colour, and pick the one that's the rarest and see if that's worth more? Just an opinion, but I think there has to be a real differentiator for a limited edition in terms of spec, but preferably also in performance.

Yeah, not much on the forum any more unfortunately (I hate FB for these kind of things as you can't search and it's too reptitive and of the moment) but Niall is still on there and checks in regularly and lists any new stuff he has. What's wrong with your existing system? Is it a G60/16v or VR - I have two VR pumps here in unknown that could probably be tested and refurbished. I had the dreaded outlet valve errors and fixed them eventually by replacing my pump unit.

Are you on the Irish Autostadt.ie forum? There's a lad called Niall on there, username SolidOak, who trades as Retrospares, and he was breaking a Mk 3 recently and a couple of others and always has a fair bit of stuff - worth giving him a shout I'd say. What part of the country are you in? He's near Longford I believe.

Yeah, it's usually lovely and clean under there, especially if it's leaking petrol. The reason it's hard to refit is that the seal on the lid with the hoses is really hard to get on properly - I found the easiest way was to dunk it in petrol, then fit it to the lip of the tank opening, and then gently push on the lid until it sits snugly - if done right, the lock ring will go back on easily with no bother. You can tell I've been there done that a few times before when it comes to the fuel pump!

righty tighty, lefty loosey ;)

I'd say the windscreen trim and scuttle cover would be good options, and maybe the dial gauges - the only relay issue is that they are all quite expensive to start with (understandable for low volume quality parts), so with shipping/customs and overhead added there might not be as muc interest in the end.

Yeah, screwdriver and a rubber mallet is how I've always done it - same when tightening - I guess that's what the plastic ridges on the ring are for!