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Ha ha - there is nothing like deep fried pork produce.....

Always keep an eye out for a tidy Mk5 GTI in case my wallet is feeling frisky. Now the kind of banter we see above is what this forum has been missing - reminds me of when I joined up around 2008/9. There's been a thread to discuss what the future of the forum might be and what direction to take, but there hasn't been much visible movement on it. I think most people were happy to donate, but not to make it a completely closed site. I work in IT, so more than happy to help out as an admin or with forum software maintenance and issues - the big roadblock for all message board platforms at the moment seems to be image hosting and associated costs - this is why most newbies just head straight for FB as they can just snap and post - but it's just so horrible and useless for knowledge sharing and searching.

Yeah, there's been lots of different types over the years, different number of relays, some do high beam and low, some both, some include sidelights in the wiring, and I've even seen an option for relayed fogs (probs not a good idea as most are afraid to turn them on in case the lenses crack!). They kind of evolved from the Mk1/2 looms and then the OEM connectors were added as the headlight casing and socket pin-out are different on the Corrado - the Golf looms just had standard H4 connector on them as far as I can remember.

Hey Kev - hope you're keepin well - nice to see you on here again. At last there is a smell of rashers in the air once more! How is the R32 holding up?

It probably won't have the OEM headlight connectors on, but I think these are still available, and you can buy a wiring repair kit from VW with the pins on the end that allows you to connect it - otherwise you end up with spade connectors, which are not ideal. I cut out the male end of the connector socket part from an old knackered headlight casing and wired it up so that the loom is plugged straight into the existing feed using the female socket - more or less the same as that German loom, but it looks like they were able to get hold of factory sockets and have one for each side for the sidelights. That loom is seriously expensive, but it is fully sealed, plug and play and 4 relay - on these dark nights it could be a lifesaver and we often spend more on less important bits. I'm tempted to start saving and buy one - I'll let you know what I think if I do.

Yeah, that last ebay one might do the trick - ask to see some proper pictures of the loom first though.

Ha ha - I'd say he only has some traces of the unicorn droppings on the floor left at this stage.

Ah ok - will give that a try. Even just read in the archives on here about it being done with the wheel on but on full lock.

I have a faulty front left sensor on the VR6 and have ordered ATE replacements (will do both sides at the same time) - just wanted to check the correct procedure and any gotchas. I'm assuming the sequence will be something like: - jack up and support car - wheel off - loosen and remove calliper - remove pads - remove discs - disconnect cable to sensor - apply plenty of penetrating oil, wait - hammer out old sensor - clean everything - fit new sensor - assembly is the reverse etc. as the old saying goes - clear ABS fault codes Does the hub need to come off or the ABS sensor ring? I'm hoping not - as it's a fauly sensor it obviously doesn't matter if it gets destroyed in the process of being removed. Any advice/experiences much appreciated.

Depends on how much you want to spend - German fleabay has a completely weatherproof plug and play version with OEM connectors for silly money: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Relaissatz-fur-VW-Corrado-Plug-Play-2-0-zur-Lichtverbesserung/182463499156?hash=item2a7bac0b94:g:AZ8AAOSwPYZU4isz I'd say you'd never need another one though! They are easy enough to make though (instructions can be found on the Mk2 forums) and if you can source the connectors you could even upgrade a cheaper one to the same spec. I built something similar for my car and it's lasted over 8 years with no problems apart from the time a coolant host burst and one of the fuses shorted out. Go for 3 or 4 relay versions if you can for extra safety.

This is why I don't like FB!

I think the consensus is that a working ABS system is better than just hydraulic and no ABS is better than no brakes! The Teves 20 is slightly better than 02/04, but mainly because it's more reliable and easier to work on. I've driven Passats and Mk3s with the latter and there is very little improvement over a well set up and refurbished standard VR6 system - the Mk4 and 5 systems are a vast improvement. If you plan on a full resto or strip down, then it makes sense to upgrade if you can get hold of the parts, but don't expect miracles. As I said earlier, I think if you replace or refurbish the master cylinder and make sure that there are no leaks from the servo and piping, a lot of the sponginess we are used to goes away. Problem is that you can't get the master cylinders new any more.

The 2.0 8v system shouldn't be that bad - it's a more reliable systems than the VR6, which is where most of the trouble lies. Do you have an all in one ABS pump and master cylinder assembly?

AFAIK - if there is not a trace of the previous ABS system to be seen, i.e it has been removed completely, it will not be a fail. I've heard of passes where just the ABS light has been removed, but wouldn't chance it. Teves 20 is a good bet, but hard to find at this stage. It won't give you much better braking though, just more reliable ABS with easier parts availability. Just replacing or refurbishing the brake master on these cars makes a huge difference as the one that's there will be 20-25 yrs old and the seals will be weeping. There was a long discussion about this on here before, and the consensus was that you will never get a modern brake pedal feel on a Corrado without a lot of work and fabrication to the pedal, cylinder and servo as it's a matter of the mechanical advantage provided by the position of the pedal acting on the cylinder which is different.

Ok - so you could probably just hook it up to the coil or splice into the RPM signal to get it to work?

Not sure about the colour - the only one I've seen in a while was on German Ebay a while back, and that was a whole ECU box, a direct drop-in replacement for the factory unit under the rain tray. Here are some pics of the whole shebang - and they show a black control box, but my understanding was that the ECU had to be swapped out as well. https://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7040123-FS-VW-Motorsport-(VWMS)-VSR-Intake-Manifold-components Also, the first post here ins a translation of the original German write-up when the VSR was being marketed - note that it refers too an additional output wire from the new ECU to send a switch control signal to the black box. Yhis is what I've seen in the past, whereas the Schrick is just a standalone control box hooked up to an RPM signal from the coil. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?25285-VSR-Explained

VSR requires a dedicated replacement OEM ECU that would normally come along with the manifold. This has a different map and a control wire on it. There should also be a green vacuum reservoir and hoses with t-piece, this operates the flap inside the manifold. All other work is exactly the same as removing and refitting the standard intake manifold, same gaskets, so you can either reuse your old ones or fit new ones. Everything else will match up and you will even be able to access your spark plugs, unlike on the Schrick VGI. My advice is to send me the VSR and I will show you how to fit it on my VR6! ;) Seriously, though - Vince at Stealth knows these inside out and should be able ot help, even if you are missing the ECU. I have seen VSRs being run wit the Schrick control box and mild remap.

Apparently Hella don't own the license for the later lights, they were a once-off for VW, so they can't go and remake them without VW approval or at their request - god knows where the designs and moulds are anyway.

I think Chris had two types made - one was mineral glass, and the other acrylic plastic. Laat I heard he was also working on a new improved version. My opinion is that if we are just talking about re-manufacturing the lenses, then that is already well covered and there are options available - unless the plan would be to use hardened/tempered glass so that they wouldn't crack in the first place. If on the other hand we could get the whole unit with fog light remade by Classic Parts or someone else, then that would be worth shooting for.

Lenses for the late fogs were never available separately - they were sold as part of the whole fog/indicator assembly that sits in the bumper cavity - pretty sure that was more than £50. There are at least three different sources of re-manufactured lenses that you would have to fit yourself to an old unit, and these come in at 100-200 for the pair. For a whole new unit I would be happy to pay up to 250, less if possible. All the remade lenses tend to have some issues such as the markings and light pattern are incorrect or they can only be used with LED bulbs, but let's be careful not to duplicate effort here by repeating somebody else's mistakes and effort. If potential buyers are just interested in replacement glass it might be better to see if we can organise a group buy to bring down the price.

Good to hear - you won't regret it. You'll be looking to buy all your parts back now!

Available new from VW Classic Parts and VW Heritage, and a member on here used to sell a Chinese version that had an LED bulb instead of a filament, so would not heat up that much. They all run a bit hot, due to the centre bulb being on all the time, and because without a separate headlight loom they carry a lot of current. They can also fail in a nasty way when the switch toggle tracks come out of alignment and melt one of the earth wires, posing a fire risk. I'd say replace yours as soon as you can.

Sounds like there could be an air lock in the system that then clears - I'd have a good look at the pipes around the fuel filterand change the filter if it hasn't been done recently. Is there any smell of fuel during this?

Awesome Mix #1 (and always keep a pencil handy!) Also found this https://www.cabrio-aigner.de/radios/radios-d/gamma-d/

Ha ha - yeah, when those tape mechanisms go wrong all bets are off! I once had to remove and open a unit up to get a jammed cassette out - that was fun, not.