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Everything posted by fendervg
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Interesting - I was changing the off-side Halogen H4 this morning as my low beam had burned out, and it looks like there would be enough room behind the cap for base of the LED to fit - then the control box needs to be connected and tucked inside, and the H4 connector attached - so might be a runner. Would be good to hear how you get on with a trial fit. That leaves the H3 lights either side - there don't seem to be many decent and small H3 LEDs available, so would have to match them up with some suitable white light high output halogen ones. I might be tempted to suggest a set of these as a Christmas present!
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If you still have a 4-pin plug that connects to the socket on the headlight body, then you can just swap the units and should work. The loom from ARZ is the internal one for the headlight wiring inside the lamp body - you might need this if the halo mod involved using the original casing with different internals.
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They also came with a Sony tape deck and CD changer, and some had aircon, but that was always a dealer retrofit option in the UK. So basically nothing you could not order or get yourself apart from a Mystic Blue respray. It would have been nice had it had all the options thrown at it.
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Would these even fit into a Corrado headlight housing? I'm not sure they would, but I'm not buying a set to find out - maybe someone else on here has tried them?
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Good points - I ended up making my own (2 relays) using OEM headlight connectors and spliced in a fourth wire each side for the sidelights. Then I got an old headlight casings and cut out the matching plug socket for the original loom to connect in to. Wrapped everything in heatshrink and OEM exterior loom tape and mounted the relays in a small waterproof box which sits in front of the battery. The two fuse holders were replaced with ones from Posi-Lock and left within easy access. The only failure I've had was when the top radiator hose burst and one of the fuses burnt out. But it takes time and money. For comparison, the very expensive German loom uses 4 relays, heavy duty sealed quality wiring, a relay box with the fuses mounted in the die and most importantly OEM connectors for the lights, and also OEM sockets each side (so you plug in both sides of your factory loom) to power the sidelights without any extra wiring. The one and only minor fault to this loom, and I've only seen one in the flesh, is that the relay box does not seem to be perfectly water tight and has a poor seal at the join - this can be fixed with some sealant and tape, but should not be needed for the money they cost. Once again, lack of pictures makes it difficult to explain, but you get the idea. Holy jeebus - those Philips LED jobbies are dear! They'd want to last a lifetime - I thought £120 was a typo :lol
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I reckon re-coated reflectors, Osram Nightbreakers and an uprated loom will give you the best of all worlds. If the lens is cracked even slightly or not sealed properly then you'll end up with corrosion on the reflector unfortunately.
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Well, you could lose up to 10 horses if it's not mounted exactly right - as for putting it on the wrong side, I dread to think - poor idle and cut out at the very least! You can speed up a normal VR by putting Solitudes on instead of Speedlines, but you have to tell it that they came off a Corrado, not a Golf......
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Haha - most of the work creating the special edition went into the badges and the little instructions on where to place them that were sent to the supplying dealers back in the day - that why it's so important to get it right. Only joking and, and not jealous as I only have a normal VR6! Just trying to get a "why is a Storm so special?" thread going again to stir it up as it's bean really quiet on here lately! ;)
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Interesting, but have never seen one of these on an OBD1 AAA or ABV engined car - they are off the later 12v VR engines specific to the US.
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The lock nut cap is just round on the inside rather than hex bolt shaped. I think they can be got as standard for the newer cars as they nearly all have lock nuts on them.
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I've seen them and had them on older cars (G60 steels on a Mk2 and Ronals on an Audi), but just prefer the look of the round ones on Speedlines and VR6 BBS wheels - whatever takes your fancy. I'm not convinced they left the factory with them on in all cases anyway - the bolt covers were much more common on the steel rims, especially where they had the four stud center trim which was held on by the covers. You could always go Max Power on it with some chrome ones!
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I have VAG OE ones (with no writing on them) on mine, got them from the dealer - they are round with a hole in the centre for getting them off with that little hook tool - I've also seen them on Mk4/5 Golfs. I think the hexagonal ones look more 80s, and would suit and older alloy or steels.
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What 80's - 90s cars for sale have caught your eye recently.
fendervg replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
I like this though - https://www.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/saab-900-turbo/23559188 -
What 80's - 90s cars for sale have caught your eye recently.
fendervg replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
Probably something to do with rust.....or catching fire -
Probably because they are A2 platform cars, same as the Mk2, and run 4 stud running gear - they are essentially correct apart from the body and interior - 16v engines and the 4 pot G60 lump were also used in the Golf. It's a bit stupid, but I guess it's supposed to highlight the evolution of the cars - the Mk1 and Mk2 Scirocos were both built on the A1 Golf platform. These days of course most manufacturers build a variety of models on the same platform - look at Audi/VW/Seat/Skoda and most others - for cost reasons.
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I'd say 3-5k at least for a respray, depending on quality and then you need to add extra for any rust repair and welding and all the bits of trim and seals that will need replacing. The major cost of a respray is the amount of labour required to strip the car down carefully and then the time and care taken for paint prep work - the latter will really affect the look and longevity of the end result. You can save a fair bit of money by doing as much stripping of the car yourself as you can. You might well end up replacing the windscreen, trim strips, badges, grill and roof trims. Over here in Ireland I would be looking at at least €5000 for a respray - I'd personally not be surprised at an end total of 8-10k for a job up to my standards. I'm sure others will come back with cheaper quotes, but I'm talking a factory finish that will last 10-20 years again.
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The motors came supplied with a hex key that clipped into underneath for manually operating the roof - but it has to be done with the motor fitted as the locating key hole is in the motor housing. Are you talking about moving the toothed wheel directly? Most of the parts from the different sunroof mechs are interchangeable and the cassettes are a straight fit - certain features are particular to a model, but I've seen several combinations made to work, and the metal outer panel will just bolt straight on to any of them.
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It also works really well with the engine and exhaust and keeps the MAF nice and clean - just as the VW designers intended all those years ago.
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Just keep looking for a proper air box - you won't regret it. There are plenty of cars being broken on the facebook group.
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Did you try adrad.co.uk? I bought an Hella one off them recently. Just check what brands they are currently stocking. Worth checking fleabay as well.
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Ah, the shouldered one that goes through the metal reinforcement bar. I got some from VW a few years ago, ARZ also used to do them.
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Which bolt is this? Most of them can still be ordered straight off VW - if not, there are plenty of engineering companies that will make them to order, but you need to be careful with the specifications and materials, depending on where they will be used and the torque.
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That's not a 64k mile interior, or else I'm Bruce Wayne....unless a lot of effort went into "aging" it and making it look like sh*ttt
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What 80's - 90s cars for sale have caught your eye recently.
fendervg replied to Keyo's topic in General Car Chat
Is that a US Recaro interior? Nice. -
Agreed - most likely the sensor. The bridging pins tests only verify the that the fan motor works at all speeds and check for continuity in the wiring and parts of the fan controller module, not the sensors themselves. The only real way check the sensors is to boil a water/coolant mixture, heat up the sensor and check for an open circuit at the correct temp - water alone won't get hot enough. Because the sensors are relatively cheap most people just replace them anyway as a precaution. Can you return the new sensor as faulty and get a replacement maybe?