fendervg

It's only rubber - I might have a spare one - I'll take a look later. Knowing me I bought four just to be on the safe side!

It's not a C specific part, so should be easy enough to come by - the sensors themselves don't fail that often btw, it's far more likely to be something wrong with the wiring or dirty contacts.

Unicorn poo....

Do you mean the three rubber inserts/grommets?

Looking good - what are the plans with the super charging? I was always tempted to fit a small oil cooler myself on the N/A car to keep the temperatures down to more acceptable levels (88-100 would be nice!) - I wonder if renewing the heat exchanger would improve things...

Red 1979 Renault 4 with the dash mounted push/pull gear change - paid roughly £600 for it - scrapped after a year as the brake system was completely corroded.

It could be loose on it's swirl pot mounts at the bottom of the tank - the rubber parts can perish.

This is what we've said already - if you can find a matching 4 bar pump unit, you can keep your old sender and swirl pot and just replace the pump body - the hard part will be finding a correct 4 bar unit, a lot of those owners on the VR6OC will be running 3 bar ones. I've just not been able to source one yet, so went to replace the whole lot.

The Z can be ignored and is not relevant - just a place holder. For example, my VIN is WVWZZZ50ZPK006xxx, where the P and the last four digits are the important bits - mine is a 93, and would be an early VR with a distributor, so red dipstick according to your info above.

A different end letter usually indicates a later revision or update - it may fit, or there might be slight differences. Some of the Google images results look near identical to the VDO one, but you'd have to take a chance on it - main things would be the pressure and the fitting for the supply pipe.

The Pierburg in the 2.9 ABV VR6 is definitely a 4 bar, as is the VDO fitted to later cars. Pierburg no longer make a 4 bar version, just the 3 bar for the AAA 2.8 engine - maybe they were discontinued early on in the VRs life, and this why VW switched to using VDO units?

Have never seen one yet, but I'm sure they're available somewhere. I'll have a look and see if there's a part number on it.

Hey Jon - sorry to hear you've left the fold (for now ;)) - always a pleasure having you on the forum.

Great story - best of luck with the car. Can't be many 16v ones over there - only G60 and SLC.

It just depends on what you want out of the car - they will look good for photos and shows, but if you intend it as a daily or frequent driver you will suffer unless you spend a lot of money getting everything set up correctly to allow for a wheel the car was not designed for. I just stick with 15" myself, happy with Speedlines or the BBS VR6 cross-spokes (which look a little like the LMs) I have on at the moment. VW Motorsport used to do a lovely 16" Speedlines for the Vento Cup cars, but they are very hard to come by. My only reason for ever going to 16s would be for bigger brakes.

IMHO 17 is too large for the Corrado. It's not practical to drive. Try it out before spending your hard earned cash. Stick with 15s or 16s at most.

You will need to purchase or borrow pin removal tools for junior power/timer contacts if you are changing the connectors or taking the loom apart. Something like these, but you should be able to get them for a lot cheaper: https://www.kufatec.com/en/search/index/sSearch/pin+removal

Some more. The Aktiv system would have had powered speakers, with no amplifier end stage in the head unit - so you might find that there are spare power and earth wires for each set of speakers that will not be present in other cars.

That looks weird - try this. It's for the Gamma, but it should give you some idea, especially of the loom to the radio and colours, which will be essentially similar. I might have some more as well - will keep looking. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf

One wire should be battery 12v+, for station memory and to run the radio without ignition, and the other should be ignition for switched live - this might only be for German style radios though. They should both be there in the wiring loom but need to be reversed for fitting some aftermarket radios.

What wiring is present in your car - if you original loom is there you will have a brown and black rectangular connector and these should plug straight in - one is for the speakers and the other for power, lights etc. The CD changer will be a red ISO connector, but the changer will also need separate earth and power. I'll see what I can find, I should have a few radio wiring diagrams in the archives.

I think all G60 ones use cable - so the later 2.0 8v/16v or VR will be sensor with red needles and multi-pin connector at the back. There are some on a notorious and well known auction site at the moment - but they are crazy money for breaker parts! Hopefully someone here might have a decent set.

Won't be battery, as with the engine on it will be running off the alternator - it might be a dodgy earth connection though. Have you checked voltage output across the battery with engine on/off? Then there's the usual suspects: - dizzy hall sender - cap and rotor arm and leads - crank sensor - vacuum leak - dirty intake manifold - injectors and fuel pressure It's a real pain and sometimes very expensive getting to the bottom of rough running on a VR. Did you scan for fault codes as well?

I think 1H0 is often just a later parts revision than that Corrado specific 535 - these hoses would also have been used on other cars with the same engine.

Part number for the cap is here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92065-Early-VR6-distributor-rotor-arm-and-cap-part-numbers&highlight=distributor