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Everything posted by fendervg
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It could be loose on it's swirl pot mounts at the bottom of the tank - the rubber parts can perish.
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This is what we've said already - if you can find a matching 4 bar pump unit, you can keep your old sender and swirl pot and just replace the pump body - the hard part will be finding a correct 4 bar unit, a lot of those owners on the VR6OC will be running 3 bar ones. I've just not been able to source one yet, so went to replace the whole lot.
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The Z can be ignored and is not relevant - just a place holder. For example, my VIN is WVWZZZ50ZPK006xxx, where the P and the last four digits are the important bits - mine is a 93, and would be an early VR with a distributor, so red dipstick according to your info above.
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A different end letter usually indicates a later revision or update - it may fit, or there might be slight differences. Some of the Google images results look near identical to the VDO one, but you'd have to take a chance on it - main things would be the pressure and the fitting for the supply pipe.
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The Pierburg in the 2.9 ABV VR6 is definitely a 4 bar, as is the VDO fitted to later cars. Pierburg no longer make a 4 bar version, just the 3 bar for the AAA 2.8 engine - maybe they were discontinued early on in the VRs life, and this why VW switched to using VDO units?
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Have never seen one yet, but I'm sure they're available somewhere. I'll have a look and see if there's a part number on it.
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Hey Jon - sorry to hear you've left the fold (for now ;)) - always a pleasure having you on the forum.
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Great story - best of luck with the car. Can't be many 16v ones over there - only G60 and SLC.
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It just depends on what you want out of the car - they will look good for photos and shows, but if you intend it as a daily or frequent driver you will suffer unless you spend a lot of money getting everything set up correctly to allow for a wheel the car was not designed for. I just stick with 15" myself, happy with Speedlines or the BBS VR6 cross-spokes (which look a little like the LMs) I have on at the moment. VW Motorsport used to do a lovely 16" Speedlines for the Vento Cup cars, but they are very hard to come by. My only reason for ever going to 16s would be for bigger brakes.
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IMHO 17 is too large for the Corrado. It's not practical to drive. Try it out before spending your hard earned cash. Stick with 15s or 16s at most.
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You will need to purchase or borrow pin removal tools for junior power/timer contacts if you are changing the connectors or taking the loom apart. Something like these, but you should be able to get them for a lot cheaper: https://www.kufatec.com/en/search/index/sSearch/pin+removal
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Some more. The Aktiv system would have had powered speakers, with no amplifier end stage in the head unit - so you might find that there are spare power and earth wires for each set of speakers that will not be present in other cars.
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That looks weird - try this. It's for the Gamma, but it should give you some idea, especially of the loom to the radio and colours, which will be essentially similar. I might have some more as well - will keep looking. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf
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One wire should be battery 12v+, for station memory and to run the radio without ignition, and the other should be ignition for switched live - this might only be for German style radios though. They should both be there in the wiring loom but need to be reversed for fitting some aftermarket radios.
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What wiring is present in your car - if you original loom is there you will have a brown and black rectangular connector and these should plug straight in - one is for the speakers and the other for power, lights etc. The CD changer will be a red ISO connector, but the changer will also need separate earth and power. I'll see what I can find, I should have a few radio wiring diagrams in the archives.
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I think all G60 ones use cable - so the later 2.0 8v/16v or VR will be sensor with red needles and multi-pin connector at the back. There are some on a notorious and well known auction site at the moment - but they are crazy money for breaker parts! Hopefully someone here might have a decent set.
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Won't be battery, as with the engine on it will be running off the alternator - it might be a dodgy earth connection though. Have you checked voltage output across the battery with engine on/off? Then there's the usual suspects: - dizzy hall sender - cap and rotor arm and leads - crank sensor - vacuum leak - dirty intake manifold - injectors and fuel pressure It's a real pain and sometimes very expensive getting to the bottom of rough running on a VR. Did you scan for fault codes as well?
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I think 1H0 is often just a later parts revision than that Corrado specific 535 - these hoses would also have been used on other cars with the same engine.
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Ignition lead help - Can't source the ones to fit my car
fendervg replied to Chaz!'s topic in Engine Bay
Part number for the cap is here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92065-Early-VR6-distributor-rotor-arm-and-cap-part-numbers&highlight=distributor -
I'm not disputing that they lift at speed, the upgrade solves that, but I was wondering what makes aero blades better than standard apart from looks - after all you can get aero inserts for normal wiper arms as well. Don't get me wrong, Lupo wipers are a great mod (I have them), but was trying to explain that there could be other less costly options that are nearly as effective. The lifting can actually be corrected mostly by grinding part of the nub away, and I've also heard of stronger springs being swapped in.
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Ignition lead help - Can't source the ones to fit my car
fendervg replied to Chaz!'s topic in Engine Bay
Weird - I have exactly the same ones from Heritage on my car and they fit a 1993 dizzy VER fine. Here is the info from my order: "Bosch Ignition Lead Set for VR6 SKU: 905QHT020" if you need to compare. -
It should be the alternator moving outwards on its bracket that tensions the belt - I think you needs to loosen a couple of the other alternator mounting bolts as well as the toothed nut on the bracket to get it to move towards the block enough.
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Do they really make that much of a difference? I know they are easier to fit and don't smear and look much better, but the rubber blade design is more or less the same. I have Lupo ones myself, but have never had a problem with standard wipers on other cars, especially the Bosch SuperPlus. I thought the main reason to replace them on the Corrado was the spring tension and getting the blades closer to the glass, and they look more sporty to boot.
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Ah yes, remember them well - has them on my Audi CQ back in the day. It's a pity they don't make them any more, but I believe some rally/motorsport companies sell similar reinforced ones for competition use, but you would probably end up paying through the nose for them, which kind of defeats the purpose of this thread!
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I think they need to be the specific ones from a Lupo GTI, but am open to corrections - a search on here should bring up the info. I know that VW mysteriously upped the price on them once they realised there was a demand. Some have also had luck with TT and BMW wipers. The other option is to simply dremel away the metal nub on each arms that stops the blades from making proper contact with the glass.