fendervg

IMHO 17 is too large for the Corrado. It's not practical to drive. Try it out before spending your hard earned cash. Stick with 15s or 16s at most.

You will need to purchase or borrow pin removal tools for junior power/timer contacts if you are changing the connectors or taking the loom apart. Something like these, but you should be able to get them for a lot cheaper: https://www.kufatec.com/en/search/index/sSearch/pin+removal

Some more. The Aktiv system would have had powered speakers, with no amplifier end stage in the head unit - so you might find that there are spare power and earth wires for each set of speakers that will not be present in other cars.

That looks weird - try this. It's for the Gamma, but it should give you some idea, especially of the loom to the radio and colours, which will be essentially similar. I might have some more as well - will keep looking. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf

One wire should be battery 12v+, for station memory and to run the radio without ignition, and the other should be ignition for switched live - this might only be for German style radios though. They should both be there in the wiring loom but need to be reversed for fitting some aftermarket radios.

What wiring is present in your car - if you original loom is there you will have a brown and black rectangular connector and these should plug straight in - one is for the speakers and the other for power, lights etc. The CD changer will be a red ISO connector, but the changer will also need separate earth and power. I'll see what I can find, I should have a few radio wiring diagrams in the archives.

I think all G60 ones use cable - so the later 2.0 8v/16v or VR will be sensor with red needles and multi-pin connector at the back. There are some on a notorious and well known auction site at the moment - but they are crazy money for breaker parts! Hopefully someone here might have a decent set.

Won't be battery, as with the engine on it will be running off the alternator - it might be a dodgy earth connection though. Have you checked voltage output across the battery with engine on/off? Then there's the usual suspects: - dizzy hall sender - cap and rotor arm and leads - crank sensor - vacuum leak - dirty intake manifold - injectors and fuel pressure It's a real pain and sometimes very expensive getting to the bottom of rough running on a VR. Did you scan for fault codes as well?

I think 1H0 is often just a later parts revision than that Corrado specific 535 - these hoses would also have been used on other cars with the same engine.

Part number for the cap is here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92065-Early-VR6-distributor-rotor-arm-and-cap-part-numbers&highlight=distributor

I'm not disputing that they lift at speed, the upgrade solves that, but I was wondering what makes aero blades better than standard apart from looks - after all you can get aero inserts for normal wiper arms as well. Don't get me wrong, Lupo wipers are a great mod (I have them), but was trying to explain that there could be other less costly options that are nearly as effective. The lifting can actually be corrected mostly by grinding part of the nub away, and I've also heard of stronger springs being swapped in.

Weird - I have exactly the same ones from Heritage on my car and they fit a 1993 dizzy VER fine. Here is the info from my order: "Bosch Ignition Lead Set for VR6 SKU: 905QHT020" if you need to compare.

It should be the alternator moving outwards on its bracket that tensions the belt - I think you needs to loosen a couple of the other alternator mounting bolts as well as the toothed nut on the bracket to get it to move towards the block enough.

Do they really make that much of a difference? I know they are easier to fit and don't smear and look much better, but the rubber blade design is more or less the same. I have Lupo ones myself, but have never had a problem with standard wipers on other cars, especially the Bosch SuperPlus. I thought the main reason to replace them on the Corrado was the spring tension and getting the blades closer to the glass, and they look more sporty to boot.

Ah yes, remember them well - has them on my Audi CQ back in the day. It's a pity they don't make them any more, but I believe some rally/motorsport companies sell similar reinforced ones for competition use, but you would probably end up paying through the nose for them, which kind of defeats the purpose of this thread!

I think they need to be the specific ones from a Lupo GTI, but am open to corrections - a search on here should bring up the info. I know that VW mysteriously upped the price on them once they realised there was a demand. Some have also had luck with TT and BMW wipers. The other option is to simply dremel away the metal nub on each arms that stops the blades from making proper contact with the glass.

The Bosch ones that VW Heritahe sell work fine - I have a set on my car, also a dizzy one (1993). Bremi also do a good set. The only difference between coil pack and dizzy versions is a little in the length, and of course the 7th lead to the ignition coil, but the sockets and plugs are identical. Only thing I can think of is that you have a different dizzy cap fitment on yours but that would be pretty unusual.

That's one hell of a nasty spray job. There is no way that is original paint - I've never seen that happen on factory paint unless you throw acid at it. The sunroof thing is extremely suspicious. Storms would have all come with a standard spec inc. sunroof from the factory, then were rebadged in the UK - so a re-skin seems likely here if indeed the paperwork proving it's a Storm is genuine.

Beautiful car - a lot of effort and hard earned cash must have gone into that. It must have been nice to be able to do most of it in more or less one go - I usually just get the chance of doing one or two big jobs a year, apart from normal maintenance, and provided there are no Corrado emergencies.

Yes

Yeah, but I don't care about them lucky sods - they can put up with the extra labour 'cos they have the joy of a variable intake! (Id you manage to snag a proper VSR it doesn't have to come off to change the plugs).

The standard BKR5E or BKR5EKU work just as well and are easily available. Those Bosch ones were recommended by Stealth I believe, but I haven't heard any reports of them in action yet. Maybe someone else on here has tried them? Thee's not much point in putting long life super spark++++ etc. in a VR, just change them every year or 10-15K and you'll be grand.

That's a good shout - it might be losing it's memory if there is no power to it with ignition off, hence it won't know which song was playing last.

Hah - I think I'll be paying that site a visit! After doing some work on my fuel pump the other day I noticed that a 50cm length of line I put in about 2 years ago for a non-return valve was all cracked and perished, in some places right down to the inner braiding - you could even just peel bits of the outer housing off. Bought in a reputable motor factors with SAE/DIN ratings, but was only R6/7 - so be warned. Seems strange, because there is no heat or contamination in that area.

Does it need to build an index of the mp3 files on the stick in order to keep resume in memory, or maybe there's some special formatting required?