fendervg

No.1 will always be somewhat oily on cars this age with a VR engine, unless the head has been rebuilt. Compression test will tell all.

Spray some electrical contact cleaner or WD-40 in there and then start moving it side to side very slowly while pulling out - use a pair of flat pliers or a pipe wrench and a protective cloth, preferably on a bench vice. There might be a locking tab as well.

Watching this with interest as I'm always on the lookout for a fully functional VSR. :)

Ah. Then. I would have thought that they are readily available.

Are they not the same on other VR engines (also in the Ford Galaxy and some Mercs) or is it a Corrado specific part number beginning with 535?

As above.

It's up to you - but I would be of the opinion that you need headlamp units and projectors that are designed for LEDs (maybe some of the aftermarket units)- they are not just a simple retrofit like the ads would make you believe. Having said that, I haven't tried LEDs, so any feedback on this is welcome. It would be good to know.

@hendrikbmx - I can sell you the whole original lambda sensor that I took off my VR at 90K miles (it was working fine at the time, simply a maintenance precaution), or I can remove the pins and give you the connector only if you want? As far as I know, these connectors should be readily available through a dealer by the way - I'll see if I can get the part number for you. The whole probe should be part#535906088 for a VR. EDIT - actually just checked your original post and photo - my sensor has the rounded connector on the right of your picture, so is probably no use to you - apologies. But you can definitely buy these through the VAG dealer, and they also sell cable/loom repair sections, which are essentially a length of wire with the pins already present at each end. Cheers.

The head light reflector is designed for incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. It will not work properly. What's wrong with a decent updated loom and good standard bulbs? That's what I have and it is more than enough on dark winter nights on back roads provided the lights have been correctly aimed.

Don't do it. Won't be street legal anyway.

Not expensive from the dealer last time I checked.

Cam sensor is used for ignition timing. If it is faulty the map changes to limp mode. On the other hand the crank sensor will always report an error with the engine not running. Two different sensors.

Ok. Will take a look at the one I have tomorrow. I'm away at the minute. PM me your address just in case.

Looking good! [emoji2] can you PM me the details please?

Plastic oil filter housing with drain plug. Should still be available from VW new.

? You want a cup holder that looks like the oil filter housing?! Good idea.

For sure. Unicorn genitals come to mind. The recaros are actually not as nice to sit in as the standard heated leather, so not worth the scene tax in my opinion. Now cloth electric Recaros are another thing altogether.

The two terminals I. The sensor form a circuit via the coolant. If the level drops, the circuit is broken, hence the light goes on. Check the wiring to make sure it is working and bridge the pins on the connector. You might have a dodgy tank.

If you look near the jacking points on the sills and then go inwards you will find a number of strengthened points on the chassis shell that you can use. Be careful to protect the top of your jack stands and jack with something (I use a rubber ice hockey puck) so as not to damage the under seal. If you do a Google search, there is a picture about of the Corrado from underneath with all the jacking points and reinforced sections marked.

Indeed. I concur. ;)

Apologies for the late update - mine arrived last week - all good. Keep up the good work, really appreciated.

Do you have the lower steering column cowling for a height adjustable wheel? Thanks.

IMHO your best bet is to find a good independent mechanic and build up some trust and a business relationship over time. I'm happy to do nearly everything myself, but don't have access to a lift or ramps. Some jobs are just not worth it if you can't get the car into the air at a comfortable working height. Talking in general rather than just camber adjustment.

They don't know monkeys about older cars as a general rule. The guys that knew how to do it are probably retired. Just because they have a fancy laser test rig doesn't mean that they know anything about how suspension geometry works. You can do it with a piece of string and a few basic tools at home.

Any mounts other than rubber will result in increased feedback and vibration. There are also rubber dampers on the subframe that you can look at. Another reason can be a tired gearbox shift fork mechanism or an incorrectly fitted clutch disc.