Andy T

Come on guys lets all post to say if we ARE or NOT interested in the group buy anymore, then we'll know 'where we are' ... I'm still in at 5+ or 10+ price. There's no point in us all paying full whack later on down the line, Come on people!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

:?: not sure what you mean..... the plug/socket in the wiring loom mounted to the rear engine mount can only be plugged together 1 way... kinda like this on the socket - [ 1 2 3 [ 4 ] ] so '1' on the 'plug' can't be plugged into '4' if you get my drift. reading some other threads it sounds like it could be a broken/bad wire somewhere in the loom 'probe side' so I think i'll have to remove it all from the car to inspect it properly. I just hope the loom on the engine bay/fusebox side is ok! The probe is probably the original unit so maybe it needs changing after 90k miles... cheers

You mean did I plug it in the wrong way? no, its shaped so that it will only fit one way. Just took it on the motorway and the MPG is much improved with no lambda sensor, 45 MPG!!! :?: I guess im gonna have to remove it to check the wiring, and condition of the probe...

John, do you actually have a steam cleaner or is it just high pressure hot water? Most garages say they can 'steam clean' your engine but its usually hot water, which usually causes havoc with the electrics!

Taped up the WOT switch this morning, its just hunted at idle and still put out black smoke! Disconnected the lambda sensor loom instead, and runs fine & drives well. Drove it seven miles home carefully with no problems or black smoke, is it safe to run it with no lambda sensor until i can get it fixed?

Right, I fitted a new master cylinder to the C on friday night. I unclipped the Lambda probe wiring from holding clip on the bulkhead to give me some room. I spilt some brake fluid in the engine bay so I flushed it away gently using a hosepipe. I took it out for a spin and the car drove fine. Saturday morning it was great for 20 mins, but then half an hour later I started it up, and it was chugging at idle. Five mins later it would hardly drive and was spurting out black smoke! :( I drove it straight back home at this point. I unplugged the lambda probe wiring loom from the connector on the rear engine mount - there was a little water inside and the pins were slightly corroded. Today I cleaned up the contacts on both sides of the connector and sprayed them with WD40 to get any water out. I also unscrewed the earthing wire from the loom to the earthing point near the connector, it was pretty corroded so I cleaned both contact points up. I then checked continuity from the earthing point to the battery -ive, all ok. After doing this I took the car for a spin. It ran absolutely perfectly 8) at least it did for eight minutes, then it started to splutter and kick out black smoke again. The oil temp had just reached 72° when it started going wrong, could it be temperature related? I have read posts about disconnecting the lambda sensor, I tried it and it did seem to run better. I have not tried taping up the WOT switch yet, shall I do this and still run the car until I can get the problem sorted? Has anybody got any ideas on what it could be? have I disturbed something when working on the car, or is it just a coincidence? The car has always ran perfectly in the past. Could it be a wiring/fuse problem, or has the lambda sensor gone? Also, will I have done any damage to the platinum plugs/lambda probe/cat by driving it like this? I only drove it for about 4 miles at low speeds. Cheers for any help.

Saw a very tidy looking C on the A55 North Wales, saturday afternoon, think it was the 'Aubergine' colour, reg H??? VUB. Very low slung on 17's, looked great. I would of let on but I was driving the girlfriends blue corsa, the G60 started kicking out black smoke earlier in the day :cry: luckily close to home!

lol, I sent a PM to Stu (Mr Beige) earlier today offering a window switch, he replied and it sounds like the group buy is still on. I'll hold off sending a switch for the mo if they don't really need it. Is everyone else still up for the group buy? I can't wait to bin the std. door pockets 8) :D

I second the AutoGlym cleaner, its very very good and won't perish rubber/plastic hoses/grommets, or damage the paintwork. Don't use Gunk or other harsh solvents, they should only be used on metal!

The ISV on a G60 controls the release of excess boost into the boost return pipe 'off-throttle', so won't you get problems like odd running, and more stress on the supercharger?

Im sure on GSF/Euro website they list different G60 badges for early or late syle grills, maybe the clips are different?

Saw a black/dark blue Corrado on councillor lane, Cheadle last week (could of been thur/fri) K plate, may of been a VR6... Also saw a green M plate VR6 this morning on chester road, stretford just before the arndale, looked very nice had red/black rear clusters.

When you say notchy, do you mean notchy at the shift mechanism, or is it that you can feel resistance in the gearbox/syncro to select the gear (like a fast knocking felt through the lever)? I saw massive improvements when changing to Redline MT90(misguidedly I used to Slick50 too :( ), and most of the time the movement of the lever & the actual gearchange is now very good, but there are occasions where I can feel the sychro struggling to mesh, then I have to dip the clutch again (usually when downchanging to 3rd or second). Changing from first to second at highish revs doesnt work at all, its like 2nd doesnt exist! clutch twice and eventually it goes in! These probs may be down to worn rear engine & g/box mounts (front mount is new) but I fear its actually the synchros that need changing.

I only meant to suggest fixing the split if its a small 'dry' one, i.e dirt hasn't got in yet and grease hasn't started coming out!

If its just a small split, repair it - I have in the past on the mk2. I degreased the area around the split with brake cleaner, then sealed it a blob with a strong flexible adhesive (Halfords sell it in a green tube). It lasted for years and it didn't fail MOT. My steering rack gaiters also had various repair patches on them :) It depends where the split is really as to how long it will last - but give it a try 8)

I'd agree with the above, take the whole droveshaft off, not difficult. Pretty sure there will be a circlip holding it on the shaft which is fiddly to remove. If you dismantle the actual CV joint (cage, ball bearings etc.) it must be put together in exactly the same position otherwise it could run tight and cause vibration... :( Also if a cv joint falls apart when its removed from the car (i.e a few balls drop out) its knackered, don't try and salvage it get a new one!

lol and I thought I was the only person who drove round in a Corrado blasting out Shed 7! My CD changer - Chili Peppers - Blood Sugar Sex Magic Travis - errrr, the first album? Coldplay - Parachutes White Stripes - Elephant N.E.R.D - Fly or Die (best 2004 album ive heard so far) 'Phonics - Word gets around Daft Punk - Discovery Shed 7 - A Maximum High Jimi Hendrix - Live at Woodstock Supergrass - In it for the Money Blur - Modern Life is Rubbish Robbie - Sing when your winning As you can see i'm pretty much stuck in the 90's listening to 'first albums, Hell I need some new tunes!

that's because autosol is abrasive, and should not be used on mirror polished surfaces. it even says so on the packet. use a liquid polish, like brasso, or Belgom Alu, or a wadding type polish, like duraglit, they don't scratch or dull the alloy. :oops: well pointed out, I used it because the brake dust/salt had got to them bad in winter even with regular washing. Your right it shouldn't be used on mirror polished alloy! Found the pics, they look great, who did them for you? What did you do with the centre caps, did you have them painted/polished or machined to match?

Cheers. Doing a swap with the seller so i'll have a pair of 8's and a pair of 7's (one of which already refrubed 8) ) Think i'm gonna stick with 7's upfront for cheapness, a pair of tatty 8's will cost me £140 at my local breakers!

I think pristine laquer diamond-cut rims, but obviously one little touch of the kerb and they'll look a mess unless they're repaired straight away. I used to have BBS polished bare alloy outer rims, they were ok for a bit but eventually brake dust and road salt killed them! Autosol brings them up again(along with RSI) but you never quite get the mirror finish back.

I Can't decide what to do with these - I was going to get them mirror polished & laquered but most have advised against this because they won't last. I can't have them bare polished because its a daily driver... so.... I'm thinking of having them painted then diamond cut/laquered - has anyone seen at set of these diamond cut? Not sure what I'd do with the alloy centre caps tho - maybe polish them or chrome plate? Cheers (pics would be good!)

Did anyone ring Mr Beige to pay?

Just got tho the bottom of this now, H&R adapters have a boss size of Ø71.6mm (as per porsche design 90's) so the plastic spigot rings i've seen with the kits must be for a type of porsche wheel with a even larger bore. What type of rims are you running badlad?

Does anyone know if 5x130 Porsche wheels all have the same centre bore diameter, or do they differ? The design 90's I've bought have a larger bore than VW's 57.1mm, its about 70mm. I've seen some H&R adapters pictured with plastic spigot rings for the 'larger' bore. There's a second hand set of H&R adapters i'm interested in, but the seller says they didn't come with spigot rings, and didn't think they were needed :?:

I nearly bought some on their website, then realised they were £140 per pair not for a full set!! :(