Andy T

I'm pretty confident it would mate. I'm still using Wax Wizard paint cleaner & wax that I bought about 4 years ago (very very similar product to the Swissol) its great stuff. I've used it on my slightly faded Flash Red paintwork, and the paint cleaner restores the true colour very easily, giving it a wet look shine even before the wax goes on! When my Wax wizard kit runs out in the next year or two(!) I won't hesitate to replace it with Swissol. AutoGlym.... Er..... well their tar remover is pretty good!

Finally got around to fitting my new OE front discs and Pagid Fast Road Pads. Well what a difference, not even bedded in yet and they feel so much better than the old drilled discs, lots of bite and a really solid pedal feel. Nice, the vibration has gone away too. Looking at the old drilled discs, they were like swiss cheese, something like 40-50% of the disc surface is drilled! 'Proper' discs(e.g. Porsche) have quite small drillings, and only a small number of holes, so most of the contact area is retained. Whovever came up with the swiss cheese discs needs shooting!

Yeah you are right, I stand corrected! Must of been VW Marketing Bollox then! Even the KR uses the same crank :mrgreen:

Tornado Red (H/J plate possibly) on sunday afternoon, at the traffic lights near B&Q near Harpurhey?/ Moston, Manchester. I flashed (or tried to) and you waved, car looked sweet, very shiny!

Thats not bad, I was expecting synchro cones to be an expensive extra. It's good to have some testimonals too, I've heard a few horror stories about recon boxes. I don't think I could stretch to a quaife diff though, whats up with the standard diff(apart from its tendancy to self-distruct!)? Can the standard diff be improved any while the 'box is being rebuilt? Cheers

Can anyone recommend a good gearbox rebuilder thats familiar with Corrado 'boxes? How much would I be looking at, and whats involved in a typcial rebuild? Do they just replace the synchro rings, or do they replace bearings and other worn parts? Cheers.

Mine used to 'Jolt' into Reverse, and be difficult to get out of reverse, but these problems seem to of disappeared after changing the box oil to Redline MT90, and replacing the clutch slave cylinder & fluid. :?:

As far as I know, it is NOT the same crank. The dimensions are the same, but the G60 item is a drop forging for extra strength, the 8v one is not. I wouldnt trust a crank designed for 112bhp on a G60! How easy is it to replace the Crank Bolt? Assume the Timing Belts/pulley have to come off? Whats involved? Cheers

Where are the extra relays/fuses located mate? Would be useful for future reference.....

Yeah i work up at Pizza Express near 'M2' a couple of nights a week. Haven't had the pleasure of seeing your motor yet mate? Although, maybe i have. Is it an M reg?? Wow I remember seeing that one parked there about 18months ago, on friday/saturday nights, walking up to Bar 38, I'd be going on about it to my girlfriend and telling her that it was going to be my next car (I had a mk2 Golf GTi at the time) In fact I'd say that was the 'C' that made me want to own one ! :D 8)

For which mount, the G60 one? thats not a bad price, think I paid about £45 inc. VAT from German & Swedish. My mount had split also, but It had been on the car for 12 years!

The rear silencer rattles quite a bit so I think its shot anyway... hoping to find a second hand magnex/miltek backbox some day with a small oval tailpipe :) shame magnex/miltek dont do a seperate oval backbox for the corrado, as the rest of the s/s system is only 6 months old... I nearly bought a red C that had the body mouldings removed... looked great. Are they stuck on, or is it a big bodyshop job to weld up the holes? cheers

i'll have to go ahead and get a set of these then. only cut 20mm off them?? surely then the car would run on the bump stops too much? Tried posting a diagram but doesnt seem to be working.. I 'll try again later. Bumpstop length is a personal thing.... Weitec recommended 20mm shorter for a 40mm drop, others recommend that they stay full length! .... I tried 20mm and it works well so I stick with that. Maybe its a case of lowered stiffened suspension needs more bumpstop pre-load? You could cut 40mm off if you wanted - They would probably last longer too as they'd be under less compression. I don't think the axle pivot bolts would come loose on their own, there usually very tight. But it's good pratice to slacken off the two bolts when fitting lowering springs, then torque them back up when the vehicle is back on the ground (releases stress in the bushes caused by the lower ride height) maybe previous owner has done this in the past??

is this the one that goes through the shock absorber??? thats the only one i undid. using koni t/a with koni springs. It was fine for the first week or so of having them fitted but then i started to notice it over speed bumps and now i notice it on big bumps in the road.[/quote:c2901] No, its the one that holds the rear trailing axle to the chassis, Might be worth checking the tightness. If you put a spanner on the bolt and you can spin the nut/bolt, its not tight enough. Rear bump stops are essential, as they are spring assisters, and stop the light rear end bouncing about over bumps. Maybe the spring coils or shock internals are clattering about because of lack of bumpstops? With 40mm springs I usually use new 20mm shortened bumpstops. Are the shocks/springs definately assembled in the right order? Should have 3 top nuts, first one on the shock/spring assy before they go on the car, make sure this is tight. The next two nuts are fitted afterwards, between the top mount rubbers/cup washers. I've seen these in the wrong order so many times! If your not sure I can post the exploded diagram from the Bentley manual.

Not taken any pics of the rear yet but I will this weekend. Red Clusters look the business, but spoilt by a crappy round exit powerflow exhaust, until I change it!

I'm pretty sure the G60 mount is the same part number as the Diesel mount - The only other that would be stronger is the VR6 mount, and i'm not sure if that would even fit!

Could well be loose axle pivot bolt, or knackered axle bush. The nut/bolt are prone to seizing, and if its been undone it may not be tight enough, even though its been torqued up correctly. This happened to me but it clonked over the smallest of bumps. Strangely didn't occur when reversing! Might be worth removing the axle nut & bolt, cleaning the threads up then refit & torque.... at least it would eliminate what happened to me. p.s. what shocks are you using? I used to run t/a Weitecs on the golf and they clicked & clonked like mad, apparently was just the way they were!

Cheers. Yeah I've got one colour coded handle and one black handle at the moment (other one broke!) I'll probably colour code a pair of passat rears at some point, but to look right they need stripping down properly before painting, and look best if the rubbery plastic seal/packing is left black. I got those wheels 2nd hand but unused, totally mint. The guy had paid £1600 for the set from VW, but then wrote his car off before he fitted them :shock: got them for £700. You sometimes see them on mk4's (5-stud)with big chunky tyres on, or on mk4 polo's(4-stud) A nice touch is that the inside of the wheels are painted a dark grey, so don't need cleaning as often :mrgreen:

My Flash Red G60... and yes its the original paintwork! *mod edit - removed double post and re-attached pics for you - Henny*

Think I've sorted it - I was looking for bad connections around the ABS looms in the engine bay, when I noticed a loose connection on the +ive battery terminal - the main terminal was tight but two auxilary power cables bolted to the terminal were loose and slightly corroded. I can't believe I didn't notice it when I first got the car! I've driven 100 miles since, tried accelerating & braking like a loon and the ABS light has not come on once so I think its sorted now :)

This is quite an easy job, but made difficult by badly seized bolts that hold the caliper carrier to the hub carrier. The problem is that the end of the bolts protrude out of the mounting holes, close to the disc, and so corrode badly, seizing them in! Add to that they are torqued up to 135Nm so end up being right buggers to get out! It's best to apply some WD40/Plus Gas or similar the night before, at both ends of the bolts. The only way I could free them off was by using a good socket on a ratchet handle, with a foot long bar on the end of that. But you must support the hub carrier from underneath with a trolley jack or block of wood, so that you efforts dont damage the suspension & steering alignment in any way! Once they are off, clean the bolt threads up with a wire wheel attachment in a drill, or replace them if they are really bad. Refit with loads of copper grease, especially at the exposed thread end! Hope this helps ppl comtemplating this " 1/2 hour " job! :wink:

I bought mine online, from Trackstore, they were doing the best price on Water wetter at the time. I've not heard that I can accelerate corrosion in the engine, the product claims to inhib corrosion more effectively than antifreeze! :?:

Cheers for that, think i'll try it at 70/30 then. My water temps are ok, usually about 90° when on the move. Stat, rad & fan all seem to function correctly, just thought it would be useful for hot summer days. I have thought about an oil cooler, because the oil temp is usually about 110° and i've yet to drive it in summer! cheers

I cant remember now - maybe 78mm....... anyone?

Anyone running it in their cooling system? Its supposed to improve heat transfer/reduce temperatures/lubricate water pump etc. etc. I've just bought some - It says it can be added to 50/50 mix water/antifreeze, but is better with a reduced amount of antifreeze (says minimum 15% antifreeze should be used in road cars) Anyone any suggestions? Might just play safe with 60/40 water/antifreeze......