dan

Thanks guys.. :D I'll check out the wire connections between the battery & alternator this evening. I've heard theres a local garage who can check the battery for me. They give you a little print out telling the percentage output & the possibility of recharging it etc.... I'll try them tomorrow. Thanks again.... Dan

Right people, here's the scoop.... Possibly left the radio on overnight. Got in & turned the key..and the car slightly hesitated but fired up ok. Drove the car out of the garage, switched it off, removed the keys,(in case some passer-by tried to steel it) got out & closed the garage door. Got back into the car, turned the key & not a dicky bird. Well the dash lights did come on & the 'ABS' light comes on (& sometimes stays on unusualy). Took out the jump leads & the car started as usual. Took it for a spin with no problems & parked up again. Five minutes later I tried to start it & nothing (apart from the dash lights). The battery connections are tight & secure. So I looked for a bad connection somewhere & found a wire with a 'plastic covered' spade connector just dangling. There is a bracket holding some of the wiring loom just above the front engine mount (this is where the wire is lying). The plastic 'loom holder' I noticed has come loose, maybe due to recently having the car washed underneath. Could this be the problem?? Is this wire needed?? If so, where should it go?? Any ideas people

That sounds cheap for a rad. I paid €106+ for a genuine replacement hose last year with VW.... if I'd known the price beforehand I could've bought a Samco set for just a little more. btw, I think you'll have to remove the front grille etc to fit the rad. Good Luck!

I think a full head gasket set will set you back about £90 with Awesome

I don't think drilling your airbox will cause any engine running problems. Although if you've got a G60 it may be a bit risky (supercharger sucking in dust) What did you buy anyway?

I have this stored on my computer for a while now (got it from the net). Read this, I found it to be acurate & usefull.. Thanks for those (especially Todd!) who helped me with the shifter linkage adjustment. The procedure is really straightforward. History: The car was shifting perfectly until one day when someone whacked my shifter, which made it out of alignment (long story.) Symptoms: The shifter was not centered and shifting from neutral to third is not dead on. (It should shift to third from neutral with VERY little force; you should be able to just slide it to third with your pinky finger.) Fixes: 1) Gently pull up the shifter console, there are 2 tabs at the bottom which holds the console in place. 2) There are 2 13mm hex bolts in the shifter assembly. I loosened the wrong bolts at first; it should be the bolt that is located on the shifter between the spring levers. 3) Loosen the bolt and adjust the shifter until the side-to-side movement/tension is about equal AND you can slide the shifter DIRECTLY upward from neutral to third gear. Make sure you retighten the bolt for each try. Results: It makes a huge different in shifting!! Shifting to all gears are much more precise like it was before the "incident". If after adjusting the shifter and you still have problems, you will need to adjust the cable. The following are the steps outlined by Todd@AWE: 15. If further adjustment is required, either have your VW dealer perform the adjustment, or do it yourself. CABLE "A" (Driver side): if pushing down and to the side on the shift lever to go into reverse, and it gets hung up on the reverse lockout, then this cable needs to be adjusted. Note the position of the cable end to the transmission lever on the transmission. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable toward the front of the car in small increments until the lever does not hang up on the reverse lockout. Retighten the bolt to 18ft/lbs. CABLE "B" (Passenger side): if 1st or 5th gears are hard to get into, then this cable must be adjusted. Note position of cable end on transmission lever. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable rearward in small increments for better alignment for 1st gear. Slide the cable forward for 5th gear alignment. Retighten the bolt to 11ft/lbs. Thanks!

When I took off the 17'' TT rims & put the speedlines back on they looked lost, especially at the back. Thanks all.... so I need 4No, 7.5 x 16" ET 35 Azev A's (is this right?)

The all black looks better

I prefer a black grill as well...... just paint the eyebrow Awesome are not cheap but they do give excellent service

Thanks for your comments, didn't know you vould get bigger Speedlines....interesting. I really like the Azev A as well. I thought the only difference between the A & C was the centre cap, (it appears to be flatter on the Azev C) And because you lot know what looks best on a corrado I'll buy what the majority suggest. So will I buy the Azev A or the Azev C?

Hi all, I had a set of 17' TT (six spoke) rims on my car until yesterday. I sold them to a mate who owns a A3. They looked ok on the C but look better on his A3. I sold them because I could only run them with 40mm profile tyres. Thus giving a harsh ride quality, poor protection for the rims, knocking my speedo out and generally being sore on the cars running gear. Anyway I've decided to go for 16' rims with a 45mm profile which gives an almost identical overall size to the originals. I had in mind 'Azev C' wheels. In my opinion these are the best looking alloys for a C, what do you think? If you could suggest one wheel to suit the Corrado, what would it be?

Bought mine 2 1/2 years ago with 76,000 It now has 88,189 miles on it.

I painted mine using silver smoothite. They look ok but are hard to keep clean. I'd recommend doing them either black or that dark gold (talked about earlier)

Does the B+M sit up much higher than the original stick? Anyone got a picture of it fitted in the car Cheers Dan

Rey, that one looks the biz. One question, I assume the gator just pushed into the gap on the console? If so, do you have to keep pushing it back in every time you release the handbrake?

We have a bit of a VAG thing going on at our house as well. There's three Audi's, my corrado and our Transporter van.

Tell you what Dan, I'll make and send you both types. Just PM me your details and I'll get them sent out to you. Dan

I have bought some of that 'dry clean' spray made by 'simmonz' (think). Its made for car upholstry etc. I bought it to do the roof linning but still haven't got round to doing it yet... maybe next weekend.

Yeah, just give me the details and I'll do the rest.

Hi Dan, I can make you some nice VW stickers to cover your existing caps. The ones I usually make are black with the round VW logo in silver (you can have any colour btw). Just measure the diameter of your existing caps and tell me your colour choice and the address to post them to. You don't have to send any money, if you're happy with them then just make a small donation to the forum.

Would you be looking to make a dark violet pereleffekt by any chance! :) That would look really well btw. As the callipers are hidden in behind the wheel the colour match doesn't have to be exact. I used silver smoothite on mine and it matches the paintwork just fine.

Nice one David. If I were to do it all over again I'd go with the Eibach lowering springs.

Yes, it slides back towards the rear of the car (at least mine does)

I always thought the Callibra was a nicely designed car but, after reading that post I hate them :) , plus there's so many of them about. There must be about 20 in my town alone, some ok and some very rough looking. Obviously he (Kev) did not have a VR6 c. Someone should post a question to him, asking what kind of c he did have. Place your bets now....

Hi Chris, Is the vortech charger easily fitted in comparison to what the z-engineering is like?