VW_OwneR_85

LOL ,, glad you got it sorted, good idea with the slabs ;)

what a b3ll end!! , anyone know if legal action has been taken with this?

oh damn thats the one that got it by the uninsured red light runner!, yea wasnt nice! just goes to show things like that do happen, just saw episode 7 where they end up buying that ferrari! so looking forward to seeing them sort that out, looks like a mess

anyone been watching it? just started watching season 2 a few days ago, most are on youtube if nobodys seen it, worth a watch ;)

decided to get rid of the mk3 leather seats, heres the mod required to fit them , you got to move the rail over by about 20mm or so bad pic i know sorry, seeing as i now have banded steels i needed to tidey up the hub center , got abit creative with some cheap studs just got to sort the fronts out in a similar fashion since bleeding my brakes from the brake line replacement my brakes didnt quite seem right {no bite}, but i think iv found out why! seeing as my car was stood for some time before the brake line replacement rust has set in on the front discs and the discs now kind of have a glazing on them, you can see the dark areas of old rust, kinda thought when i first drove it since being stood it might just burn off with a few miles of driving, no point in hopeing it might burn off with driving so i just got the DA sander on them with 80 grit and sanded it all out back to clean metal, also replaced the pads with some oem ones, need to get actual camera pics and not dodgey phone pics

yea i know what you mean some times you just got to stick these things out, does this noise happen when just steering left to right while not moveing? or does it only happen when on the move? maybe worth taking it to a garage to get there opinion on it if its realy p155ing you off, What i would do is jack the front up with axle stands and get under and have someone steer it while you look and listen for this mystery noise,

good work!! , yea thats what i like to do with mine, work on it for a week then drive it for abit , rinse repeat :) good luck with the course ;)

how long have you driven it for? just around the block? maybe it just needs a good run to wear it in? oily greasy hand prints all over the flywheel?

the torque from 5 wheel bolts crushing down on the ally spigot because the wheel spigots to small would easily do that to the best of them, im not for or aginst wheel spacers, iv used them and have had no problems,

anythings a bad idea if its not done right,

haha you two are keen ;) might have to put the price up hehe , its in good nic, only removed it because i have temp n volt gauges in its place, ill get pics of the bits i plan on selling and put them up by next week, bentley manual, ABV vr6 cam cover and inlet manifold, maybe my revell corrado model, vr6 aux water pump, and a few other things

i have one that i could sell aswell, £10 posted sounds reasonable for what it is tbh,

yea it was a good buy , had its faults like the rest but the previous owner messed him around and didnt send the log book so he had problems getting it into his name, he took it home {uk} with him last year and sold it off very cheap as it had no paper work,

yea thats right, do you know it? my friend rick brought it and had it sent over to guernsey, the same night the radiator blew on him :( but he got it sorted out ,

welcome , looks nice and original, should maybe post this up in the members gallery section...

have a look here http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewforum.php?120 the rolling road thread at the top, just a quick look through it ,the most impressive N/A is vr6pete 218 BHP @ 6685 262.4 Nm @ 3825 2.9 low comp bottom end, schrick big valve head, schrick VGI, Dastek, Miltek, BMC... but still running my old map with the 2.8 and 268 cams.

thats fair enough but iv seen loads of pics of 24v conversions which look more oem then most 12v vr6s out there today , dont forget its the newer updated vr6 so its still oem territory, its not like you would be converting it to a tdi , yea your right a bmc on that note wouldnt look good neither would chopping up the inlet manifold ;)

i have a working one from my old 12v setup that im willing to post out , not realy sure how much though, i think £7.00 would cover recorded delivery and idd be happy with £15 for it so £22.00 posted? that seem ok? i can get you a pic later on if you like

judgeing by the sounds of your requirements what you need to do is a 24v 2.8 or 3.2 conversion.im happy as larry with my 2.8 24v and mine hasnt even had a remap and its not going to either ;)

yea should be fine, its just oxidised like copper does over time. iv even re flared my old copper brake lines to the bias valve as i had to cut them flush to undo the fittings , cleaned them up with wire wool before i flared them and the joints are mint!,

awesome! , i used the cheap ebay vagcom/vcds cable , works fine :)

just buy these , iv done most of mine , its an annoying job unless you got a ramp, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BRAKE-PIPE-KITGolf-Mk1-Mk2-1-2-3-4-COPPER-3-16-/300896616336?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item460ed5ff90 Flare kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7pc-Double-and-Single-Flaring-Tool-Kit-Brake-Pipe-Set-Mechanic-FREE-CUTTER-/271160946972?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f2273b11c#ht_4067wt_991 you might also need to renew these spring clips http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK1-CABRIOLET-SCIROCCO-1-6-1-8-GTI-BRAKE-HOSE-CLIPS-4D0611715B-C923-/190797288571?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item2c6c67947b#ht_2412wt_850 now would be a good idea to upgrade to mk4 rear calipers if you havent already done so, volksworld13 how do you remanufacture genuine brake lines? you just remove old brake pipes and clean them up?

got one similar problem with mine, iv basicaly come to the conclusion that its down to a pin prick hole that i missed when welding , i wax oiled the back of my repairs that you couldnt get to after i had finished painting to avoid contamination , so im thinking the wax oil has penetrated through a pin prick hole and over a period of time has slowly passed into the filler and through the primer {as there both purous } and lifting the basecoat and clearcoat creating the tiny blisters , the rest of the car is spot on!,its just that one repair area, i basicly should of epoxy primed the repair area first before useing filler, epoxy primer isnt purous like regular primers so it would of sealed any tiny holes preventing anything from passing through into the filler ,, its no big deal ill sort it in a few months..

was the back of the weld areas treated with anything? ,

milltek allday everyday!