PhatVR6

I've got some 16" steel wheels? not too far from you either if you want a loan of them?

I've never had a problem with that mount personally so I can't really tell you what's best to do with it, but you can still buy uprated rear mounts from vibratechnics if you can warrant the expense. If it's a rubber block full of holes like tho other side the sikaflex method will work. works a treat on old and new mounts, it stiffens them up without making the rock hard, and only costs a few quid.

Exactly, presonal prefference. Each to their own. one reason I decided to get rid of the Golf, sick off all the "you must have this, stylng, these wheels, chrome this, chrome that, retro boll0cks this", etc etc. Did you use a Rallye as a donor for the 4WD?

Well if it's any interest to you, my mates R32 has cams, a milltek exhaust and an AMD re-map, and has 307BHP peak! But what impressed me more was that it had 185lbs/ft of torque (the peak figure that mine produces at 3500rpm) at only 1500rpm!!! I can't remember what the peak figure was, but the graph rose VERY sharply from there on and it held it way up to the higher revs too. Impressive. Shame they are impossible to find in the breakers at the mo. :x 3.2 24v......ooooh :D

oh, sorry, the above post wasn't directed at you anyway. As for power, who knows, but the extra 0.2l should give massive amounts of mid range torque. I've yet to experience it myself, but from what other people who have big capacity big cammed VR6's they are meant to be beasts.

How about utilising the space under the chassis legs at the front and coming in from the ends?

It's not all about the power at all, it's all about the traction, response and driveability. 3 properties which an overpowered FWD turboed car has none of, so they're not for me thanks. Yes, I did think about a turbo, but the off boost performance isn't for me at all. I prefer the NA driveability, and I'm fitting nitrous for use on the drag racing sessions. I thought this forum was going to be more grown up than others I've used, but it seems to be yet another one where the users are obsessed with peak power figures at the expense of everything else.

What? rims and stuff, or bolts and centre caps? http://www.imagewheels.co.uk http://www.supergolfs.co.uk

small capacity 4 cylinder turbo engines don't excite me. I don't like them, they sound sh1te, and they are gutless and I don't like the power delivery of turbo's either. I prefer the throttle response of a normally aspirated engine. that's my preference, how is that talking sh1te? and to anser fec's question, my VR revs to 7200rpm, and produces power up to 7000rpm.

Yep, it can be too short, giving poor in gear speeds. and you you read the post at the top that exactly the problem the guy has! hence why I suggested a longer final drive. Gearing can be a very personal thing though. an "expert" may have his (proven) opions on what is best for a geiven engine, but one you start to mod ify it all goes outof the window, and personal driving styles also come into it. what suits one person doesn't suit others. oh, and some people seem pre-occupied with being able to hit 60mph in 2nd gear, and it totally blinkers them into wanting any gears shorter than that. When the reallity is, that 0-60 means sh1t all unless you're a motoring journalist.

No idea. I'm more interested in mid range torque that outright power anyway. You're only at 7000rpm for a split second......your at 3500rpm very often....where would you rather have the gains.....

errr, air flow? it won't be too clever with the pipes fitted like that. :? and intercooler half the size, but with the fittings for the hoses on the ends would work far better.

I didn't know you could? I though everyone tinted their own?

Well done, brave man. I wish I had the bottle to rap in work and work on cars full time. I'd love to, but I daren't!

Not neccessarily. the top gearing can be too long, and stop you getting into the powerband, which means you can't overcome the drag of the car. Top speed is aload of b0llocks anyway, I'm more interested with how fast the car can get to 100, andything over than that isn't really important, it'll only get you banned, and you won't see it much on a track either unless it's a retty big one.

I can once I've done my mates and sussed out how to! I can't wait to see how a 6 speed 4WD corrado VR6 drives. I might be greedy and take it out to 3.1 before I fit it.....with 288 cams!

I doubt you hear the lower chain rattling. Get under the car, see if it's worse from underneath. Worth a try?

side to side?!? sounds more like the rear, engine side mount. Take it out and fill all the holes with sikaflex.

Well if it's dependant on temperature, and thus oil viscosity, how can it be the lower tensioner, when that is spring loaded, and not oil filled like the upper one?

show me pics of the 4wd conversion please.

work it out http://www.johnmaherracing.com/gearcalc.htm gearing alone will not give you more speed, you need torque and BHP for that.

Try opening the bonnet, then trying to pull away, with the hand brake on as hard as you can get it. You should be able to see the engine lift a 'little'. an inch is too much, it'll be hitting the bonnet. I recommend a Vibratechnics one from Stealth Racing.

Could I just add that my first VR6 does due to a failure of the tensioner and the upper blade. THere was a tear in the seal, which meant that the tensioner wouldn't hold the oil pressure, and wasn't holding the blade tight enough. The balde was flapping about, and eventually, th anti-friction coating came clean off! (I found most of it in the sump) and it was running on bare metal. Eventally it jumped a tooth on the back cam, causing it to run rough as sh1t. At the time I didn't knoe anything about VR6's, and took it to a "specialist", who diagnosed the poor running to bad injectors. I took them out, had them untrasonically cleaned, refitted them, only for it to run like sh1t still. Eventually, it slipped another tooth, and bent 6 valves in the rear bank. The head was trashed. That's when I first noticed the state of the upper blade. Needless to say, I've check my other 2 VR motors, the one with 50K on it is OK, but the 110K one has a worn upper blade, which will be replaced shortly before it's sold. Don't ignore engine rattles, listen to them and work out what they are. don't leave your engine to kill itself. Or you'll do this ----> :mad:

Big spring? LOL! it's a hydraulic tensioner. It has an oil feed, which presures up a chamber in the tensioner, thus pushing out the centre portion, which in turn presses the upper blade onto the chain. Air can get trapped in the tensioner. you have to remove it, immere it in fresh oil, pull the centre bit out (but not all the way) the take it out of the oil and hold it vertically upwards. poke a fine bit of fusewire down the hole in the end to open the one way valve, and it'll allow the trapped air to escape. then refit it without spilling any of the oil in it of letting nay air back in. Try it, it usually quietens chains down a treat.

I'll let Matt know, he'll probably be bringing the banana along.