Dec

afaik it's the inner cups off a non-turbo beetle that ae 100mm. Anyways I bought a set a year or so back and they fit perfectly when fitting a 02j box onto standard 100mm rado dirveshafts / cv's. The part number you are after is: 02A-409-255-D (just happened to have the box I got them in siting on the shelf here) Have a seat ready for when you get a price from the dealer though!

Looking good! Never used that package myself, but I've been working on CFD / Aero stuff like that for the last 6yrs'ish now. You could do some quite interesting things with modelling the four outlet pipes! In theory you could apply an outlet pressure for each runner that varies with time, to approximately model the effects of the valves opening + closing and then run a time dependent simulation to see how the flow varies through one complet engine cycle. 3D CFD, like modelling an inlet is notoriously processor hungry though, especially to get accurate results. As an example, I modelled a rectangular box with a small inlet jet flowing into one side of it (quite similar to the top box of the inlet mani you have there). In order to get 100% accurate results it took 8 days running on 2048 processors of a large parallel supercomputer, and that was even with a super efficient code developed just for modelling this jet!!

I've always thought they should re-introduce points for the fastest lap of the race (only for the cars that actually finish). Would make things way more interesting if one of the front runners span off / had an accident etc. At least it would give them something to continue to race for, when they were way out of the running to get into the normal points positions.

Grind off the X shaped bits across the top of the box. Leave all the screw holes as they are. :wink:

:scratch: WTF? Sorry, should that be WZF?! :tongue:

Whos VR6 was it that had about 236k on it years ago!?!? Had the pic of the odo as his avatar.

Yup, I just chopped them with a grinder attachment on the dremel. Dead easy!

That plasatic strip just comes straight off. Just prise it straight upwards with a flathead screwdriver. Then there are two screws mounted on the upper side of the top lining. That's the easy part though. Actually getting the glovebox out through the gap in the dash is a nightmare, because of those daft plastic ridges on the top of the box! I just chopped them off the top of mine when I had it out. They serve no real purpose (other than to annoy you). It makes removing + re-fitting the box sooooo much easier with them gone.

Yup, that's them! They should bolt onto the original bolt points to allow the caliper to be mounted at 90 deg to them.

That 50/50 shot is very impressive! Nice work! :salute: 8)

Ahh Fudge!! I had copied those settings from Waynos's set-up. Didn't consider it would be slightly different! Gave it a quick try with the proper config settings for the ign module, and didn't have much luck tho. Didn't have a massive amount of time to look at it though, as the new daily driver TDi passats turbo decided to blow a seal today without any warning at all. I'm now looking at quite a bill for that to get a new turbo fitted!

Yup, that's the one. Wired up the same way by the looks of it. I just used two of the unused pins on the module to power the hall sender. As the unit has the capacity to do that, but the rado as standard gets power for the hall sender form teh ECU. Cheers Goldie :wink:

I'm using the little Bosch ignition control module. The same hook-up as was in the Club-Gti link (but the diagram on that site seems to have disappeared) I've reconfigured it to supply power to the hall sender.

You can get high temperature engine lacquer. But imho lacquering polished parts like that is more trouble than it's worth. 15 mins with some autosol every few months isn't really that much work!

Your pretty limited as to what you can get. The Stroeve induction kit is one: http://www.tuningwerkes.com/products/Werkes_Stroeve.htm and there was another which replaced the whole bottom half of the airbox with a foam filter, cant remember the name offhand though. I really wouldn't bother though with it though. Save you rmoney and just make sure you have a clean standard filter in there.

Good stuff!! Stop teasing me with your 'easy to start' red crrado though! :lol: That engine bay look spotless too! 8)

Does fel a bit better since changing the PWM setting alright. Not getting any kick back anymore. Prob a combination of resetting the timing again, and the last few changes I've made. Yeah hopefully, just need to adjust the dizzy now! Dragged one of my mates out to sit in the car and turn the key while I messed with the dizzy....but unfort I think the engine was flooded at that stage. I've done a flood clear, pulled the plugs out and cleaned them off. Left it sit for a while now too, while it was raining. Back out for one last attempt for the evening before it's completely dark out there!

Soooooooo close!!! Can feel it 'wanting' to start now!! Been temporarily foiled by rain! :brickwall: logfile attached. Seems to suggest that it's hitting 365rpm when almost catching. Cranking rpm is set at 300rpm. Idea to increase it to 400rpm?

Yup.....Q3 and Q11 are in there: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-ems-system-smd-pcb357-assembled-unit-p-165.html http://www.megamanual.com/357/intro.htm The diyautotune site lists the v3.57 board as having the flyback circuit installed, but the uk site I bought it off made no mention to it......prob the cause of my confusion! :lol: :roll:

lol...cheers Stu! I originally had a v3.0 board that I built myself, but then in a fit of crazy spending bought the v3.57 board, which is a factory built board with surface mounted components.....so not diy'able. :wink:

ah....so does the v3.57 board have the active flyback circuit installed as default? I was assuming it didn't!!

I'm using the v3.57 board now. The shear amount of info available is kind of overwhelming, and a lot of it is different, which doesn't help! They are as good as ebay injectors (was given them by a friend of a friend). I was told they were working perfectly when removed.......but cant be 100% sure obviously. they are standard blue-tops off a cosworth saphire. so should be 325cc and I measured the resistance across the pins at about 3 ohms.

Yup, be carefull when unplugging the wire to the glass as part of the spade connector can easily snap!

:worthless:

No special tool required! Just a large flathead screwdriver to pop the glass out. I find the easiest way to do it is to angle the mirror as far upwards as possible and then get the screwdriver in the gap left at the bottom of the mirror. Once you have the bottom clips un-popped, the top ones come out pretty easy.