bcstudent

Not much really as the main body is a sealed unit. All you can do is remove the plunger and check for pitting/score marks before soaking the lot in carb. cleaner. Giving the fuel distributor a good servicing sorted out an occasional high idle problem I'd had for two years. I didn't replace any seals when I did mine (there aren't many) and had no problems. You will have to be very careful with the plunger though as they're matched to the fuel distributor. Damage either and you'll be replacing both!

There's not a lot that's sweet about my Corrado! It's meachanically sound but pretty tatty really. I couldn't justify running two cars since I only do about 5k miles a year.

So the main lights have a dipped-beam filament and a main-beam filament, only one of which is lit without holding the stick back, and the other lights are additional for main-beam only....right?

Maybe so, but it's probably going to happen. Soggy suspension and 60mpg sounds like heaven to me these days. On the rare occasion I actually use the car I only seem to drive at 50mph everywhere anyway since the roads are so cack. A TDI conversion on the Corrado is a possibility also but sounds like more trouble than it's worth.

There is on Norfolk roads, believe me. never been to Norfolk but I can't imagine the roads there are worse than the crap we have in Devon, the trick is knowing where the crap roads / speedbumps are and avoiding them! As long as you don't beach your car driving around normally it ain't too low![/quote:10b63] My car's 35mm lower than standard and the ride is very good for aftermarket suspension. Every time I drive the car though I'm getting a step closer to selling it and buying a soggy Lupo TDI or similar. I kid you not.

I'm stunned, I have to say! Congratulations on that fine purchase. I'm surprised nobody else mentioned the price before me to be honest.

The dipped beam lights don't go out when the main beam is switched on do they?! I can't say I've ever looked but it sounds daft.

I wouldn't want to recommend an offset, but I would like to say I love MOs. Good choice.

There is on Norfolk roads, believe me.

£500! God damn. How cheap was that?!

What's the other car you have to choose against?

...and therefore there CAN'T be the feed to the solenoid from the ignition switch that you've repeatedly claimed there is. If there was you wouldn't need to short out the ignition switch with the direct connection to the battery. ...or the ignition switch.

Bear in mind that the no.1 piston can be at the TDC position during the exhaust stroke as well as the compression stroke. If the no.1 piston is at TDC, all valves are closed, the rotor arm is pointing close to no.1 cylinder and the flywheel mark is visible...you're in business. To check if the valves are closed you're obviously going to have to have the rocker cover off though. Basically, do what CorradoVR6-n.o.s said but if things don't line up at TDC turn the crank through another 360 degrees. It should be fairly obvious when you're turning the crank through the compression stroke though as it'll be harder work than the exhaust stroke!

The starter motor is the pre-engaged type so the solenoid will be a smaller cylinder on the top. It'll be obvious when you have a look. How did you test for a feed at the solenoid if you don't know where it is?!

So is there a live feed at the starter solenoid with the ignition in the 'start' position? If there is then the starter solenoid has had it, if not it's either the ignition switch or the connection between the switch and the solenoid. Simple as that. I don't know what sort of tests you think need to be done inside the car but it's not as complicated as you make it sound!

I'm fairly sure that'll be a sensor fault. The car will fail the MOT if the ABS light doesn't come on with the ignition and go out within 60 seconds.

Lovely car you have there. This is the thread you're looking for.

It's not your ignition switch at fault is it? Check for a live feed to the solenoid when someone turns the key to the 'start' position.

I can't see it being a fuel problem on a 1.8 16v since the cold-running fuel demand is being met. I'd start with an ignition service and work from there, i.e. new plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm and coil.

That Caddy is wicked. I'd bet it's frightened the odd M3 in the past too.

Small consolation but I've got a set of four VW teardrops (no tyres unfortunately) you can have if you want. I was gonna stick 'em on eBay for a quid but they're yours if you want them.

I think I'd start by stripping the clocks and looking for the problem myself.

Excellent pics. What camera were they taken with?

I'd agree with Supercharged, the ignition switch is suspect number one.

Turned out nice! Is there any provision for a spare wheel? That would be my only concern.