bcstudent

If you do change your injectors don't be surprised if it takes a few goes to get the car running. Expect it to start and die a few times before the fuel pressure can overcome the sticky injector seats. I'll admit to being a bit worried when I changed mine!

It seems to me that the 2.0 16v is the most troublesome of Corrado engines, despite the relative simplicity. My friend's 2.0 16v Corrado regularly reaches similarly high oil temperatures but is returning not far off 40mpg. The oil temperature seems high to me as the oil in my 1.8 16v rarely tops 100 degrees. I guess maybe all the 2.0 16v engines run hot. I think I'd be inclined to fit an aftermarket oil cooler if I owned a 2.0 16v that reached those temperatures.

Doubtful. It did occur to me that I've never actually checked the ignition timing though. When I changed the distributor I just set it by ear as I didn't have a timing light at hand and I've never checked it since. Job for sometime during the week there!

I think they're the same part number but you may want to check that. * EDIT * Nope, they have different part numbers. KR: 026 133 551 (GSF part no. 18753 - £27.50 + VAT each) 9A: 035 133 551 F (GSF part no. 18756 - £29.50 + VAT each) When I changed my injectors earlier this year the ones I got from GSF looked different to the ones that came out. The car runs a hell of a lot better on the new ones though!

I seem to remember someone on here saying that the bypass valves retro fitted to the Mk2 Golfs, etc. were built in to the Mk3 heater matrix. I have no idea if it's actually true though.

The 9A 2.0 16v uses KE-Motronic engine management. The Lambda probe is a likely culprit I'd say. I've never actually owned a car with a Lambda probe but I'm fairly sure there's a test procedure you can go through before parting with your hard earned.

The first thing I'd do if I had to drive around with those is upload a pic of a BBS LM.

2.5 years here too. I can't see me selling the car until I leave the country in a year or two. It's a shed but I love it.

I find my 1.8 16v holds on to revs between gear changes too. I figured it was just a side effect of a prehistoric fuel injection system!

Just the rear lights? No headlights, brake lights, indicators, etc.? If it's just the rear lights it shouldn't take too long to figure out. I can't see that the alarm would have anything to do with the rear lights, would it? What model/year is the car? I'm assuming it's a Corrado. *goes to find wiring diagrams*

Well they should do! You could try spraying some WD40 at the base of the injector and try to work it down to the O-ring I guess. I can't say I've ever encountered the same problem.

The injectors simply pull out; they're only secured by a single O-ring each. There's no need to remove the manifold to get to them. I should probably update that thread as it seems we may have found the problem with my friend's 2.0 16v, although I'm not 100% convinced yet. In the end I invested in an OTC fuel pressure test kit from the US and found the reason the car was running very lean. After a bit of a fuel pressure adjustment it is apparently running much better although I haven't driven it myself for a while.

Abridged version: You'll be wanting the RT-S4.2 my good man.

It determines how long the cold start injector runs for after the car has started. * EDIT * Based on the extra info that appeared when I was writing this... The thermo switch you changed controls the cooling fan run-on time dependant on the engine bay temperature. Disconnect the wire and touch it on the rocker cover to test the fan run-on.

What's your source for this information? No offence but I remain sceptical.

Oichan...now there's a name I haven't seen for a while!

What dr_mat said ^^

I'd just like to make it clear that I wasn't intending to be patronising in any way. In my experience head gasket and cam belt changes aren't the enormous job some people imagine them to be and I'm not questioning your ability. Trying to do the job without a decent range of tools may cause problems. You have my sympathy.

Mentioning the 5v part was what made it confusing. If you're just looking to hardwire a 12v charger in then there are a few options; you've mentioned two of them. I'd be inclined to sort out a seperate power supply for the charger rather than render the cigarette ligher redundant myself. You just never know when you may need it.

Good wheel refurbishers can do amazing things with the snottiest of specimens. Those wheels look well within the realms of possibility to me. I mean, if they were that good they wouldn't need refurbishing, right?!

A lifetime part?! I can't believe that, especially as VW consider fuel injectors on the 16v as consumable.

I had some tryes fitted on a Mk2 GTI at Kwik-Fit many moons ago. Travelling to work the next day I could beel some outrageous clonking through the steering when accelerating and braking. Yep, they'd left the near-side front wheel loose. I once took a bike for a test ride from a local dealer only to find on my return that the apprentice mechanic had left the rear wheel loose when he refitted it following a tyre change. It was weaving all over the place at 90mph but I just put it down to the off-road tyres. I still bought it and still own it :)

There shouldn't be a need to lock any of the pulleys. Make sure all the timing marks are lined up before you remove the bottom pulley and the belt itself and make sure they all line up again at the end. There are timing marks on the flywheel, crankshaft pulley and two on the camshaft pulley (one outside that lines up with a mark on the valve cover and one inside that lines up horizontally with the edge of the cylinder head). To get at the timing belt and the tensioner you're going to have to remove at least: the alternator belt, power steering belt, water pump pulley, crankshaft V-belt pulleys and the timing belt cover. A lot of this will already be off if you're changing the head gasket at the same time I guess. When you re-tension the new timing belt it should only just be possible to twist it through 90 degrees. It'll whine like a **** if it's over tensioned and cause premature wear of the new tensioner. To be brutally honest, if you have to ask questions about someting so critical to the life of your engine it may not be the best job to attack yourself. Best of luck.

RESULT!

Which bolts did you leave loose? Was it just the wheel that parted company?