bcstudent

Oh my God. At least it's likely to be an easy fix now. Sweet.

I believe so. I'm really not sure about what's involved in a 20vT conversion.

The ECU is capable of altering the fuel enrichment on the 9A injection system by a fair ammount. I'd also be looking at the aftermarket chip as the culprit.

Interesting choice of cleaning product, but it should be fine. Personally, I'd remove the pistons and the seals and clean them with a proper brake cleaner fluid before paining them.

The question was more out of morbid curiosity to be honest. I'm wondering if it was lean only on full throttle though. If so then the differential pressure regulator or the air-flap potentiometer may be worth looking at. I'd start by trying the standard ECU before checking the fuel pressure and the differential pressure regulator loop current.

The heated mirrors come on with the heated rear screen. I don't believe the heated washer jets are standard as catch_twotwo recently had to buy a set for his Corrado. I think his car may be LHD and non-UK spec though. I'm not really sure. * EDIT * to correct my dumb arse spelling of catch_twotwo's name.

What were the exhaust gas readings? How lean was it running?

Which gearbox is that with?

It's not 100% electronically controlled though. The base fueling is mechanical, only the smaller-scale enrichment is electronic. If you unplug the differential pressure regulator the car will still run (possibly not that well when cold) but there'll be no full throttle enrichment, Lambda control, etc.

The crank wheel stripped the teeth off the timing belt on my mate's 1994 Ibiza 2.0 8v last year. It took a few valves with it. Your brother may be luckier.

Wrong. The 9A fueling is mechanical but the enrichment is electronic via an ECU-controlled differential pressure regulator on the side of the fuel distributor. Enrichment on the KR is mechanically controlled via the WUR.

That was four grand to fit it in a six-cylinder car though, right?

My car drives better with the standard wheels than with any other set I've had on there. For that reason it's staying standard. As I'm sure you know, there's always going to be a compromise when you change parts for aesthetic purposes. What's more important to you? The way the car looks or the way it drives? Can you not rebuild the splits to be 7.5J all round and see how it compares to the 7J/8J setup? I can see that may be a bit of a chore though. If anything I'd expect it to be slightly worse with 7.5J up front.

That may be true, but the 20vT would be a similar task to fit in a G60. I can't believe there's a lot of difference in the price of the engine.

Seven grand is a bit steep I'd say. Maybe a couple of years ago but it's not an uncommon conversion these days and 20vT engines are in more pleniful supply now too. It'd need confirming, but I believe Stan only paid around three grand for the supply and fitting of his 24v engine and they have to be thinner on the ground.

What would a 1988 Golf GTI 8v have? I've got the loom from one of those in the shed if it's any good. I'm expecting it's not though.

I knew I recognised it from somewhere.

My 1.8 16v is completely unmodified and runs with no pinking on 95RON unleaded.

The whole car could look good in primer :)

You sure? Off the top of my head the 1.8 8v peaks at 115 ft/lb and the 1.8 16v peaks at 117 ft/lb. They're seperated by a lot more than 10% though. I believe the 8v makes peak torque at around 3000rpm, where the 16v peaks around 5000rpm. The 16v is not making 115 ft/lb at 3000rpm.

It looks like there was a serious 'contact' deficit there.

It's hard to tell but my money's on Yamaha.

Yeah, but if my 16v had three engines like that thing it'd make similar power :)

Nice motor, but I never really 'got' the Corrado-with-steelies look. It's begging for a late grille too :) That looks suspiciously like a Crane Fruehauf TIP trailer behind you. I used to build those sidewalls back in the day....11 years ago.

Some nutter's nicked your steering wheel!