bcstudent

Being a Land Rover owner, I swear by the stuff.

I'd argue that point. I don't know what the compression ratios of the VR6 or 1.8 16v are, but my 570CCA battery didn't exactly have an easy time when starting the car from cold, even when the battery was new. I read on the Optima site that their batteries can also deliver high starting current for longer than a standard equivalent battery. I can't tell you how well my Optima starts the car as I only got the chance to re-make the earth cables tonight before I lost the light. I'll finish the job in the morning and see what's what.

Just a note to anyone interested in an Optima battery... Ignore the advice in this thread that suggests the standard cables will reach the terminals of the Optima with the SAE terminal arrangement (the ones with the R in the middle). The cables on my 16v are at least two inches too short. This isn't a problem for me since I have the tools and equipment to re-make the cables but be careful if you're not in that position and need a straightforward swap. It's worth noting that my standard cables would (I think) have reached the reverse terminal version of the same battery - the RT-S4.2 - mentioned earlier in the thread.

Right oh. There aren't any manufacturers names on ETKA with respect to PAS belts, just the part numbers. First post edited ^^

The what PAS belt? PG without air conditioning (9.5 x 663mm): 037 145 271 PG with air conditioning (9.5 x 735mm): 068 903 137 Q No idea about price. Less than a tenner I'd guess from VW. I paid £5 last week for a 16v PAS belt from GSF.

I was afraid that may be the answer. I don't really have the time for that!

I stand by my previous comment. Price is not an indication of quality. You hit the nail on the head with your designer clothing example and there are countless more; for instance look at the price difference between the Seat Leon and the Audi A3, built from (more or less) the same components. Justifiable? I think not. I'm not disputing that the Motec system is a better system, but it's certainly not ten times better although it costs ten times as much. I'd like to bet that in many applications the Megasquirt system could replace the Motec management with no appreciable difference. I understand that in serious competition every little bit helps and the Motec is probably still the better option.

With the Optima you're also getting a good increase in maximum cranking current. What's CCA rating is your Bosch dr_mat?

From what I've read about it....pretty good. You can't honestly believe that the price offers any indication as to the quality?! The price is well in excess of the cost of the components; you're just not paying over the top to cover the development costs.

For reference, these are the short code meanings: RT Red Top - Engine Start Vibration Proof YT Yellow Top - Deep Cycle BT Blue Top - Combined Engine Start & Deep Cycle S Starter (Top Terminals) U Starter (Top & Side Terminals) R Reverse Layout (Layout 0) C Centre Terminal DC Marine SLI Marine (Starting - Lights - Ignition) J Japanese (Thin) Terminal

Wow, seriously good prices! However, it sounds like it could get complex as it reads like he's expecting to deliver 50 batteries on a pallet to someone and let them handle distribution. It's not that clear, but this is the list in the format [short codes, description, part number, price (ex. VAT)] BT DC 4.2 Marine - BT Dual Power 4.2 8016-253 £92.06 BT DC 5.5 Marine - BT Dual Power 5.5 8052-188 £115.78 BT SLI 4.2 Marine - BT Starter 4.2 8006-252 £68.34 RT C 4.2 Starter - RT Centre Terminal 4.2 8001-287 £67.01 RT R 3.7 Starter - RT 3.7 Reversed Layout 8035-255 £59.26 RT R 4.2 Starter - RT 4.2 Reversed Layout 8003-251 £67.01 RT S 2.1 Starter - RT 2.1 - 6 volt 8010-355 £51.51 RT S 3.7 Starter - RT 3.7 SAE Terminal 8020-255 £59.26 RT S 4.2 Starter - RT 4.2 SAE Terminal 8002-250 £67.01 RT U 3.7 Starter - RT 3.7 Dual Terminal 8022-255 £60.44 RT U 4.2 Starter - RT 4.2 Dual Terminal 8004-250 £68.34 YT R 2.7 Dual Power - YT 2.7 Reversed Layout 8073-176 £77.35 YT R 2.7 J Dual Power - YT 2.7 Reversed Jap. Term. 8072-176 £77.35 YT R 3.7 Dual Power - YT 3.7 Reversed Layout 8040-222 £62.44 YT S 2.7 Dual Power - YT 2.7 SAE Terminal 8071-176 £77.35 YT S 2.7 J Dual Power - YT 2.7 Jap. Term. 8070-176 £77.35 YT S 4.2 Dual Power - YT 4.2 SAE Terminal 8012-254 £90.26 YT S 5.5 Dual Power - YT 5.5 SAE Terminal 8051-187 £113.52 YT U 4.2 Dual Power - YT 4.2 Dual terminal 8014-254 £92.06 The terms and conditions state that pricing is inclusive of: 1 2.5% discount in Leiu of warranty. 2 Delivery on non returnable pallets 3 Delivery FOC with MOQ 50 pcs or consolidated within normal VB product deliveries. 4 Standard Terms & Conditions of VB Automotive batteries Ltd. apply To summarise, these are excellent prices. The battery I just paid £132 (delivered) for - the RT-S4.2 - is listed above as £78.73 inc. VAT.

I'm very close to converting my 16v to EFI. Megasquirt is the only cost-effective option I think.

There are lots here with the DDI gauges as there was a group buy some time ago. I remember being gutted that they were G60/VR6 only.

Have some faith people :)

:lol:

I seem to recall that pulling fuse 10 dropped my standing current draw by about 150mA. It was a while ago though so I'll have to repeat the experiment. I never did find out what was on the fuse 10 circuit, although I expect the VR6 fuse box is different.

I can understand people swapping standard engines for the 1.8T, but to swap a VR6 T for one?! Madness.

So the Alpine was as much Renault as the Corrado is VW?

Similar story here... I've been into VWs since I got my first Mk2 Golf GTI when I was 19 (apart from straying for a year to the performance Vauxhall camp when I was 20). I was a massive Mk2 Golf fan and owned my second GTI for six years. I only sold it because I was given my first one back for free and I needed the cash. During my time with the second GTI my mate bought a 1990 1.8 16v Corrado and I knew I'd buy one someday. On the way back home after picking up my rolled Golf GTI on the recovery truck I saw my Corrado parked on the side of the road for sale. I bought it the next day without even looking around it. It's been trouble-free for 2.5 years and I'm only spending money on it now because I want to, not because it's making me!

Well I'm prepared to give the Optima a shot; if it dies like the rest I'll have to just chalk it down to experience.

Well, I've had a go at answering the questions via PM. Can ETKA find a part description and what models it's fitted to from a part number?! If it can I haven't managed to find out how.

The question is, how do Optima red top batteries react to charging from a deep-discharge? The fact is the RT-S4.2 I have is still only a 50Ah battery meaning, in theory, it'll discharge at the same rate as the 50Ah lead-acid battery it replaces. I can see that I may just have to track down the source of my 200mA drain.

Nothing beyond the usual stereo wiring nightmares fortunately.

A guy from my town used to have one. He wrote it off about five years ago by putting it through a hedge.

I agree with Jay. I feel ill just thinking about that sort of electrical carnage. I hope your mate has insurance with fire cover.