bcstudent

The circlip does appear to be A.W.O.L. However mine didn't have a circlip for the first two years of my ownership and, although the gear selection was sloppy, all the gears were there.

About two grand I'd say. Maybe a little more if you really want it.

As far as I'm aware there are only the two types. I could well be wrong though!

Don't take that as gospal; it's what GSF told me so I'm not 100% sure about it. All I know is that mine were definitely past their best at 119k but I never noticed any pinking. Have you seen flusted's 16v tuning guide? I'm pretty sure the WUR mod is in there somewhere.

I'm not sure. I can tell you this though...I had a race for a couple of miles from about 50mph on my '05 R1 against a new-ish 911 GT3 last year. The '05 R1 has more top-end power than the '03 in that video, and at an indicated 160-odd the Porsche wasn't that far behind me. I was pretty impressed.

Just for the record, I'm out of this group buy as it's been dragging on for too long. I just ordered an Optima RT-S4.2 for £132 delivered, which is more than I wanted to pay, but needs must.

I wish I knew enough about it to have an opinion!

Considering the part of the world you're from I'll definitely take your word for it :)

At -15 I think the pipes would freeze anyway! According to the G60 wiring diagrams from the Russian site I can't remember the name of...the heaters are simply fed straight from fuse 14. The diagrams are clearly for a US Corrado but apparently it may be the same fuse as the electric mirrors.

Shouldn't the title be 'Old to New Interior'? Unfortunately I can't offer any advice about the actual question though.

Hmmm, maybe resize to 1024 x 768 and upload to the forum. * EDIT * I find the 'Add an Attachment' option works well.

That first pic could really do with thumbnailing!

That's good to know, because I've seen several 50mm manifolds on eBay that claim to be from 2.0 16v Corrados.

Four brackets? There are only two that bolt to the back of the main bumper iron and slide into the chassis legs. The plastic pumper cover clips to the front of the bumper iron.

I think if I were you I'd have the dashboard out by now! It sounds like a proper nightmare but sometimes you just have to start at the beginning.

Like I said, plenty of people on here have made the change. Having said that I reckon my standard 1.8 16v is asthmatic enough already at the low-end of the rev range. I guess you'd notice it more if you drive the car in town a lot. If you spend more time on the motorway it may actually be a beneficial change.

Phil K is right, the Mk2 screen isn't bonded. A few years ago I got a mint screen from my local breakers yard for £10 and fitted it myself in about 15 minutes with the aid of some string and a bottle of Fairy Liquid. If there was a prize for the most impressive stone chip I've ever seen, you'd win it.

I think the 2.0 16v uses a 50mm manifold, like the 1.8 16v Golf. Physically, it will fit the 1.8 16v Corrado. However, the 1.8 16v Corrado was fitted, as standard, with an inlet manifold comprised of narrower tracts (42mm). The higher inlet air velocity resulted in more low-end torque (to compensate for the extra weight of the Corrado) at the expense of a bit of top-end grunt. Fitting the 50mm manifold will change your engine's spread of power. I'm not sure to what degree as I've never driven a 1.8 16v Corrado with a 50mm inlet manifold. There are plenty here who have though....

That's a good point. It's so easy to overlook the obvious things. The VAG service manual lists these tests for the WUR voltage supply: 1) Disconnect the H.T. lead from the distributor. 2) Test for battery voltage at WUR heater connector while the starter is being operated. The heater element resistance specification is listed as being between 20 and 26 Ohms...just for reference.

I agree that it's not the cold start valve or thermo time switch that's causing the problem. I was just saying that I don't think the thermo time switch affects the timing, in response to a previous post. That's backwards. The control pressure via the WUR is initially low (i.e. when cold) meaning the counter-force on the plunger in the fuel distributor is also low. With a low counter-force the air-flow flap can move the plunger further for a given throttle opening and allow more fuel through the slits to the injectors. As the engine temperature increases the WUR increaces the control pressure and the counter-force on the fuel distributor plunger is also increased, restricting its free movement and leaning the mixture off. I replaced mine recently (at 119k) and it made a hell of a difference to the way the car started and ran. VW list the mechanical injectors as a consumable item according to GSF; it's recommended they're replaced after 120k. All four inc. VAT from GSF were about £137. They looked slightly different to the ones that came out but work fine. Once changed it took a few starting attempts to create the pressure required to open the sicky seats, which was a bit of a worry initially! It hasn't missed a beat since.

...as long as there's enough of the bolt left for the hex key to get a grip on. For me there rarely is, hence the welded-on nut.

Just to revive this slightly...what was the opinion of Weitec fixed-damping suspentsion kits? They seem good value on the G-Werks site. * EDIT * Never mind. I can see from other threads that the Weitec kit is well received. I'll be mostly calling G-Werks this week...

I can't tell one Porsche from another! In the side shot I paused at it looked longer than a 996 with a different back end...but now I look again it could well be. Whatever, it's fast!

Poor running and heavy fuel consumption are often Lambda-probe related. Start by checking the wiring to that as it wouldn't be the first time an exhaust fitter has knackered one. However, the engine only runs on Lambda control when it's warm, so if you've got the same problem when it's cold it's likely to be something else. My friend's 2.0 16v Corrado also runs noticeably hotter than my 1.8. I see maximum water and oil temperatures of 100 and 98 degrees respectively this time of year. Hers is more like 110 and 114, although I'm not sure how much faith I'd put in the gauges.

The thermo time switch operates the cold start valve only, I think. The 2.0 16v (9A) uses KE-Motronic management.