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Good idea Majik. Pink$, I would recommend that you fit genuine vag OE disks all round (not expensive), oe pads on the rear, opinion varies re front pads (I'm using pagid fast road). The PS pipes are expensive so you want to be sure they really need doing.

Yes, if the disc is of differing thicknesses it will certainly give the symptoms you describe. Question might be why they have gotten like that. Anyhow, new pads and discs should sort it for you so get em changed and keep us posted m8

Cheers Steve, later when I get a mo.

8) 8) thanks

Oh yeah, good call Henny, forgot about that as mines mech.

Apologies for asking, I tried the search but at my age will probably die before I can read all the results that came back :) Question is: will a rack from a '90/91 G60 be identical with the one in my '90 16V? I have a suspicion I've read somewhere they have slightly different ratios so don't want to buy something that ain't a straight swap. Also, I have no idea what the part no is on mine, and sadly am not in a position to check it in near future either. I'm sure that someone here will know the answer straight off so thanks in advance.

Yep, that's the place. Ordered on line and it arrived the day after next. Howdy Jim, though it was 3 yrs old did you have to pay for it or were you lucky enough to get "that shouldn't have happened Sir, please have a new one with our compliments"? Oh, sorry, Carling don't make these do they LOL Anyway, how you keeping mate?

Good point Kev, they will undoubtedly be more costly. Might ask my dealer just out of curiosity now. kangaroo, that sounds pretty good and vag too so will know about the bolts etc.

Well its a bit difficult to say without a bit more info, but if the KF guys reckon you need new discs then I woulkdn't be surprised if your pads aren't totally shot. Get them sorted PDQ and please don't drive behind me because mine work. In fact, from the way you describe them, seriously you should not drive it anywhere.

Ripping you off springs to mind. IIRC OE ones for my valver were about £40 ea or so. Fitting is not difficult but sometimes the front bolts will have seized in and can shear off; then you need a long drill bit to get the remains out and (probably) retap the captive nut (can be done in situ, I have done it). You also need to lift the drivers side of the engine because the sump is in the way and stops you withdrawing the bolt on that side. (not a problem on a valver). Oh yeah, as coolrado says, do the ball joints as well (and if you are like me you will do the drop links and ARB bushes at the same time). Enjoy

Hmm, agree most likely either a warped disc or, as happened to mine (garage f'up), a warped drive flange. Try doing a run out check on the disc, if its out then try the flange.

cool job - in more ways than one. Must admit though that while it looks great I tend to leave the factory protection in place on mine - even though it looks sh1te. respect

ha ha kev, do you have the stud papers too? I'm pretty much with randal and coolrado on this, definitely female but unnamed. Tho' occasionally refer to the vr as 'the beast' in conversation.

fla, you got pm. Thinks - I could start a cottage industry with this and retire to somewhere warm :)

Just had a browse under the valver's bonnet (got this one parked up at work) for you. As you can see from my sig mines a '90 so hopefully the wire colours will be the same as yours. On the g/box end of the engine the three single connectors I think you are talking about are positioned around the plastic coolant outlet pipe. Looking at it, top left is Yellor/Red; bottom left is Green/Red; top right is Blue/White. The single one 'just round the corner on the back' of the engine is Green/Black and fits the sensor sticking out the back just there. Mine has a 'funny' connector that clips on the sensor end pin. (There are two earth wires connected to the top of the block just here as well, one is Brown/White and in the same sleeve as the sensor wire, other is Brown and comes down sleeve from the coil area). The oil cooler has two sensors, front one is Yellow; back one is Blue/Black. There is an unused wire tied back which is Blue/White. The throttle sensor plug when connected has wires as: top Black/Yellow; middle Black; bottom Black/Blue. I can't see any wiring coming off the back of the gearbox so don't know what that is on yours, sorry. HTH

Diss the batt & remove (gives you a bit more room). Unplug the wiring to the rad fan motor and the temp sensor in (lower) side of rad. Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the fan surround to the rad and remove it complete with fan motor. Undo the top and bottom hoses (be prepared to get wet). Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the rad mounting brackets on the top of the slam panel. These brackets pull out vertically, may need some help as they get a bit stuck after a while. The rad will then be loose and you can remove it by tilting the top towards the engine and then lifting out between the engine and slam panel. It's lower mountings are pegs which sit in holes (with rubber washers) in the cross panel. Reverse procedure to fit new one. Refill coolant by pouring into the top hose NOT the header tank. Once near full connect the hose, run her up and check heater works ok then finally top her up at the header tank.

Hi m8, bit dark now but I'll have a shufti tomorow and post in the evening.

Feeling very guilty now as I had promised to do a photo write up when I did mine earlier in the year, but been a slack bugger and not authored it yet, sorry guys. Yes, its a real easy engine to work on, Dennis's link is very useful and tells you what you need to know for the internals but I keep thinking I'll do one anyway cos I discovered (and replaced) all sorts of other stuff along the way when I did mine.

Hi guys, not been here for a few days. Yep. I think it's great. Tried it without the remote first off but found I was getting too much variation from different sources so fitted it later as its a pita resetting the head fader all the time and using their remote is real easy. Just a temp fit right now, still have to run the cable under the centre console.

If anyone wants the number its: G002000

yep, that's favourite and was cause of mine, just enough to be annoying but not enough to worry about so left it for ages till I had the front stripped off

Does driving it count? In which case 'exercised it vigorously' coming home from Weymouth in the early hours :D :D Checked the fluids Posted elsewhere but fiddled with my new basslink settings :) Walked past it several times on the drive, stopped and admired it every time :)

Hi PeteJ, welcome. Various posts on here about cleaning & polishing, differing views on what's best but'll give you an idea what's out there.

Thanks Tattie & Henny. Fitted the beast over the w/e after reading previous threads on 'how to'. Fixed it upright to a bit of 4mm mdf and velcro'd to the carpet so easy to remove if I need the space. No signs of it moving after giving it some vigorous testing late last night, so pleased with that. I'm running a Kenwood KRC 779R (47wx4 max) with CD changer, Focal 130A in doors with crossovers and tweeters in dash, and Kenwood PSR467 in back. I used to think that was pretty good till I added this, I'm very impressed with the difference it has made to the sound, really fills it in nicely - without having to distort the body panels lol.

Welcome Doire Bhoy. Nice motor, looks like Burgundy Pearl to me, code L OC3 UP2. Sticker should be in the boot on the rear cross panel.