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Hi David, yes the reinforcing plate should fit over the inner lips of the front bumper and splitter, if you think of two pieces of thin cardboard pressed together, and a paper clip slides over them to keep them held together, the same principle is applied here regarding the splitter, the reinforcing plate like I say should fit / slide on over the two joining lips and then should be able to bolt it up. You want the 5 raised L-shaped brackets going over the lip of the bumper, and the solid flat base of the reinforcing plate going over the lip of the splitter, then once all 5 bolt holes are lined up you'll be able to bolt it up. Sometimes the 5 L-shaped brackets on the top side of the reinforcing plate, can become slightly out of alignment. If you're still having trouble attaching the reinforcing plate, can you upload a photo or two, then one of us on this Forum can hopefully see in more detail. Or send me a photo via WhatsApp, I'll PM you now my mobile number. Hope this helps Si

Nice one thanks Anna :thumbleft: Many thanks Si

Oh ok Rob cool. Cheers Si

I've been looking at a few items online, and it looks like the original front splitter bolts, the main 5 bolts that secure it to the bumper are now obsolete. Part number N90433801 I can possibly get a load remade if anyone's interested. Let me know your thoughts on this. Many thanks Si

Hi Rob, is this the kind of thing you saw on line. Cheers Si

Possibly EBay item number 173458342313 You want the open wiring 20mm grommets as mooG60 has mentioned. Looks like they sell them in a pack of 5 Cost £1.35 with free postage Si

Hello there, good shout regarding the grommets, to be honest I'll probably do the same, as my original ones have long since perished away. Si :thumbleft:

Hello there, I think there are 5 bolts going through the splitter reinforcing plate, then there are at least another 1 or 2 smaller bolts securing the splitter at each end. I think the splitter reinforcing plate slides over the two raised horizontal lips, from the front bumper and the splitter, once the splitter is placed under the bumper to attach it. The reinforcing plate should only go on one way, with the 5 bolt holes lining up. The bottom of the reinforcing plate is flat with the bolt holes, but the top of it has raised points that the 5 bolts screw into if you know what I mean. Like I say the reinforcing plate should only go on one way. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, if no one else has any good spare ones, you can purchase them through VW Heritage, they normally come in two halves so you'll have to get both parts, I think they clip together. Lower support bracket (lower half) Part number 1H0 907 303 £3.59 euros In stock at Classic Parts Top ABS cable guide (top half) this clips to the above support bracket. Part number 1H0 971 852A £6.39 euros In stock at Classic Parts The two above items by the looks of it are fitted to our Corrado's and some MK3 Golf's. If VW Heritage don't have stock, then they can order it in for you from VW Classic Parts. Hope this helps Si

Hello Edd, that's one hell of a car you have there, plus the list of things you've done to it over the years is phenomenal. In my opinion your Corrado is well worth the money you're asking for it, to be honest I wouldn't accept anything under £10000 People seem to forget that the Corrado was only in production for roughly 7 years, and the VR6 was only around for 4 out of those 7 years, your STORM model they only ever made a few hundred and only in two colours, this was in the last year or so of the Corrado production plus only available in the UK, basically this makes it rare as rocking horse pooh. So anyone asking to purchase your car for a lot less are taking the p*** in my opinion. I've seen a VR6 for sale with 53000 miles priced between £15000 and £18000 this was over a year ago now and it wasn't even a STORM. Also seen a 2.0 16v with 56000 miles selling for £8500 to £9000 MK1 VW Scirocco in mint condition can sell from £20000 upwards. MK1 Ford Sierra Cosworth 500 I've seen sell for roughly £100000 The original style old mini before the year 2000, in mint condition are selling for £10000 upwards. My point is the Corrado is going to go up in value especially as there's not many left now, and even the old barn finds that are in bad condition will go for silly money soon. Like you say Edd if you're in now real rush to sell, then I would 100% hang on to your Corrado. Si

First car was a 1981 dark blue Ford Fiesta 1.1 with chrome bumpers and wheel trims, this was back in 1995 when I was 19, car cost me something like £700 But it had the worst crap interior in a sand colour, so found and bought a secondhand XR2 interior and fitted that in. Big speakers on the rear parcel shelf and cut the dash out a bit to fit an up to date stereo head unit, as the original old one was just a radio. Also fitted an XR2 steering wheel as the original one was thin as a twig :lol: Si

Fair play :thumbleft: enjoy that chilled :drinking::drinking: Si

What part of the battery tray is rotten, as mine was pitted / rusted in the centre and close to the battery clamp, which is why I fabricated the MK2 Golf one to fit. I drilled small holes close to one another using a 5mm drill bit, going along the old battery tray parallel to the inner chassis edge, but left the spot welds on the inner edge alone, and left a lip from the original tray which was good clean metal luckily, then drilled out the spot welds on the chassis leg on the outer edge, which is basically going down the centre of the battery tray. I used a hammer and medium sized chisel to cut through all the small drill holes I had made, then cleaned everything up with my die grinder. If your old battery tray is ok on the inner edge, i.e facing the gearbox then you don't really need to drill those spot welds out, but if it is heavily rusted then maybe you do. You could possibly drill small holes close to one another like what I did, to make it a lot easier to cut through with a grinder or hammer & chisel, but you'll need to be really close to the inner chassis leg, only if your battery tray is badly rusted there, then you could grind the battery tray lip / edge that is left away until it's thin enough to chisel off, but you'll need to be careful as you don't want to grind into the chassis leg itself. Si

Hello Carrots, I've done this job on mine already, I can WhatsApp you over some photos of mine if needed. I bought and fitted / welded in a new MK2 Golf battery tray, but I had to fabricate it a bit to make it fit correctly. Basically I didn't need the whole tray just the main centre part. The items I used were, 1) cordless drill 2) spot weld drill bit 3) air compressor so could use air tools, mainly my die grinder. 4) hammer 5) chisel 6) zink or Galvanised paint 7) rust eater to paint all over the repair, as it acts as a good under coat. 8) wax oil 9) Seam Sealer The left front side bumper support bracket, is welded to the underside of the original battery tray, so you have to drill out those spot welds also, on the MK2 battery tray you have to extend the back support arm of that bumper bracket, the front arm fits perfectly. Unless you've managed to obtain new old stock of the original Corrado battery tray, which will fit perfectly then. Like I say it's only on the MK2 tray that affects the rear support arm of the front left side bumper bracket. Oh yeah before I forget make sure you remove your headlight, as it'll make it a lot easier to see and to gain access, plus also my horns were rusted up badly, and so was the bracket which I cleaned up. Hope this helps. Si

Part number = 535121275 (top rubber grommet to help secure radiator) Looks like VW Heritage have this part in stock, as it's listed on their website. Si

Hello there, I presume your Corrado is a G60, if so the super charger is also belt driven, you say your engine dropped about an inch or so, when you unbolted the starter motor, I wouldn't of thought anything in the cam belt area would have been damaged or knocked, as the engine would have dipped down towards the front support cross member, unless the water pump pulley got knocked or the power steering did. The only other thing is if the auxiliary ribbed belt got pinched, when or if it hit the support cross member, as that might cause a slight ticking sound. Or are there any plastic guards around the lower part of the auxiliary ribbed belt, I know there's normally one over the alternator pulley at the top, but can't see that being able to have been knocked when your engine dropped. It does sound like something might be catching, or could be a idler pulling or tensioner pulley on the way out. The cam belt tensioner pulleys on those 1.8 and 2.0 engine blocks are renowned for seizing up and becoming notchy. If in doubt take it to your local trusted garage, and get them to double check it. Si

I've bought a few things from Chris (Sprinter53) in the past, I can confirm the badges are of top quality. Si

Yes I believe the (grey) solenoid valve 1 AKA the frequency valve does help with idling, so if the (black) solenoid valve 2 is permanently open once the engine is running, the (grey) solenoid valve 1 will open slightly once the engine is up to running temp or close to that, I think if the (grey) solenoid valve 1 was fully open at idle, the engine would possibly stall or may run rough. The coolant temp switch will communicate with the ECU and the fuel Governor to determine how much fuel to supply through the cold start injector, plus how long to run the cold start programme for, as this will vary from winter to summer. The frequency valve (grey) should be slightly open at idle or may open and close to maintain correct idle speed along side the idle control valve. These solenoid valves normally last for years, they can go wrong but it is rare. You can test the (grey) solenoid valve 1 AKA the frequency valve, by taking off the vacuum hose to the above valve from the fuel vapor canister, you should feel / hear suction as the engine is idling, if not then it could possibly be faulty or the signal from ECU could be absent ? How is your Corrado idling currently, is it surging or running rough or stalling. Si

Hello there, the 16v Corrado's I don't think we have anything like this on the valve cover, the only thing the 16v Corrado's have I believe are two solenoid purge valves, that are normally behind the air filter box, but just in front of the strut. They're ment to open and recirculate the fuel vapor deposits from the fuel canister. Plus one of these valves I think helps with idling. Part number for one of them I think is 026133517 I've sent you a WhatsApp photo of the two solenoid valves from my Corrado, one is (grey) = solenoid valve 1. The other valve is (black) = solenoid valve 2 Also sent you info regarding testing the solenoid valve 1 as that is the main sensor that opens once the engine is up to running temp according to the manual I have. Si

Hi just found this link to another 3D thread from July 2018, that's got other plastic trim bits listed also. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?107938-Any-more-3D-printing-projects Si

I've just found this link below: https://picclick.co.uk/Vw-Golf-Mk2-Corrado-Passat-B3-G60-16V-323674907396.html I think this is confirmation your Corrado doesn't have a brake servo. With out being able to look at another LHD Corrado it's difficult to fully work out the proper route for the vacuum hoses. I'll keep reading through the manual I have to see if I can see anything regarding vacuum hose/s to your ABS unit. I've sent you a WhatsApp message of the above link also. Si

Oh hang on I can see the big black vacuum hose is connected to the back of your throttle body, that's the one actually I think that runs to the solenoid valve then to your fuel vapor canister. Si

Right I've been reading through the 2.0 16v workshop manual for this engine, it looks to me as if someone has tried to make up a pipe vacuum adapter connection or something, because the brake servo vacuum assist plastic pipe, should run from the brake servo to the back left of inlet manifold. In your second photo above the blue vacuum hose like you say has been plugged off, plus the vacuum hose next to it that by the looks of it connects to a white plastic pipe, does that white pipe go to the back of your throttle body, or has someone tried to make a brake servo vacuum assist pipe to the brake servo, as the original servo pipe was split or damaged ?? The white plastic vacuum pipe I think normally runs from the throttle body to a solenoid valve on the back of the air filter box, then from there should be connected to your fuel vapor canister, which is under your air filter box. Also on the standard original brake servo vacuum assist pipe, there should be a one way vacuum valve plumbed into the servo vacuum assist pipe, the pipe runs from the brake servo to the left back of inlet manifold, the pipe should run behind a heat shield which by the looks of it is missing from your bulkhead. The one way vacuum valve has 2 or 3 small vacuum inlet pipe nozzles sticking out of it, one of the small nozzles is connected to a small white vacuum pipe, that then runs through the bulkhead to the back of your instrument cluster, which I think gives you your MPG reading on your dash. The other nozzle is normally plugged off with a small green plug. Also there should be two support brackets on the back of your inlet manifold. In your left photo above you've circled a small area in red, can you see a blue coloured bung / plug, it is connected to the emissions test pipe, which should be bolted upright to one of the inlet manifold support brackets. Si

Hi at the moment I'm snowed under with work until about 6pm, erm are you on WhatsApp if so send me some photos, and then I'll be able to look at things in greater detail. I've just sent you a PM reply regarding WhatsApp. Si