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Everything posted by vw rule
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Bournemouth/Poole Meet Saturday 20th April
vw rule replied to Rams's topic in Event Announcements & Discussion
Sorry Rams I can't make this meet dam it, my exhaust has arrived so I'm going to have to get on and sort it out :( Sorry mate. Have a good one guys. I'll be up for the next meet 100% for some grand touring :sunny: Si :salute: -
Hello there, try disconnecting your battery and then reconnect it just to see if it works then. The wiring to the MFA will be in the steering column area going to the right stork (wiper stork) check you have power at fuse 16 and fuse 21 fuse 18 might be linked in to the circuit somewhere as well (but I think it's fuse 21) The muti function MFA button the wire to that I think is brown / white If you unclip the fuse box and pull it out on the back of it there are around 30 connecter plugs, the plug for the MFA should be the green plug it has I think 4 wires in to it. If you are able to turn the fuse box around a little so you are able to see the back of it, there are two levels of plugs the top level and the lower lever, you want the lower level on the right, look at the third plug from the right on the lower level (the green 4 pin plug) I think it is the only 4 pin plug on the back of the fuse box anyway. Out of the MFA switch button the four wires should be (1= BLUE) (1= WHITE) (1= BLACK is the memory) and (1= RED is the rest) and then I think they may change colour. (from BLUE to BROWN / WHITE) (from WHITE to RED / WHITE) (from BLACK to BLUE / YELLOW) (from RED to YELLOW / RED) On the back of the instrument cluster the wires to the MFA Digital display are (brown / white) and (white) check you have power and earth or if you have nothing, check you have continuity through the wiring. If every thing looks ok and you have power and earth then it could be a diff MFA / printed circuit unit. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 3:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 3:02 AM ---------- I think the above is for the Corrado 1992 onwards as these had the MK3 Golf style storks and the MFA, and the 1989 to 1991 / 92 had the MK2 Golf style storks and the earlier type I think MFA or was the MFI Si
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I believe the rear MK4 golf pads are 17mm to 17.2mm thick. The early VR6 Corrado's had 15mm thick rear pads and the later one's had the 17mm thick pads, so if your Corrado year is 1996 on a N reg then go for the 17mm thick pads. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:
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Right I've been able to have a word with my mate, who has said he'll be able to repair my O/S/F wing, plus he said he can make moulds of my wings in fibre glass to try it and see how they look. Plus he said he can 100% modify a new early wing no problem by making the arch bulge wider. So like I say in the next few weeks I'll be having the wing repaired and then have both wings taken off to make the moulds. Si
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Yeah there quite nice those just before the 1992 face lift.
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I think as well there is a product that covers over your paint in a clear fine film, protecting it from stone chips and tar and salt spray up and prevents too much UV light attacking the paint. The product is Dura Shield you have the whole car sprayed with it, and it can last for 3 or 4 years. I had mine done years ago just to try it and it does work well, but I think I had a different product but was very similar to the above Dura Shield. Si
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Oh fair play, yeah the BMW's are nice cars. What would you go far the two door, 4 door, or the estate touring ? I have been tempted to get the BMW 330ci two door or the new Scirocco but I just don't like the back of it to much. You shouldn't have a problem selling your Corrado, there are still quite a few wana be owners out there who will I'm sure snap your car up. Si
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Bournemouth/Poole Meet Saturday 20th April
vw rule replied to Rams's topic in Event Announcements & Discussion
My dam exhaust has gone it's blowing a treat, I have a replacement coming. Hopefully I'll have it tomorrow but still want to pop a long. I might come down even if the dam exhaust hasn't arrived. Your know it's me as it will be sounding like a beetle :lol: Si :salute: -
Try this guy he has loads of Corrado's I think he is breaking. His Tel: 01295 263672 / 263705 Opening hours: Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm Saturday 8:30 to 12:30pm He's on Ebay his item number is 200679767447 this is for a O/S/R seat belt but if you contact him he might sell / send you just the bolt and washer. I think he's based in Banbury. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:
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When ever I replace the cam belt I always count the belt teeth, you should be able to adjust out the belt slack via the tensionor, but in the past I've had new cam belts with extra teeth which haven't quite fitted correctly, which can course the valve timing to be out by a tooth or two. With the old type distributor, on the older cars fitted with the points and condenser you were always able to fit a test light, then you would turn i.e rotate the distributor until the test light came on, as soon as the light came on then you were able to start the car and set the ignition timing. With the later type distributor, fitted with the hall sensor you could rotate the distributor until you were able to hear the difference, in the engine note i.e the engine RPM would slow down or speed up so you could rotate until you hear the RPM roughly half way set, then drive the car down the road until you hear the engine pinking, once you hear the pinking you would then rotate the distributor in the direction of retarding, until the pinking has just gone, and this should be almost bang on set to the correct setting. But this is only when you don't have the correct timing light / timing gun. You should really check and set the ignition timing with the timing gun as Supercharged said earlier in this thread. Good to hear Sam that you've got the valve timing checked and had the ignition timing checked / adjusted. You can still purchase the idle control valve from VW main dealers, I've got the part number some where if you need it. Or there are some slightly cheaper ones on Ebay I believe. Si :thumbleft:
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No don't use Tiger seal as this is normally for retaining exterior trim and inner door membranes, plus it sets rock hard and doesn't stay flexible, so if you use this the oil filter housing could be a real swine to remove next time. You could use silicone sealant but make sure you put it on evenly, and make sure it fills in to the o-ring recess, this silicone sealant stays very flexible and is oil / heat resistant. But make sure not to cover over any oil ways. You should be able to purchase this from your local Motor biz store or Halfords. Si :thumbleft:
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Hello there, there is a new one on Ebay the item number is 290720529656 cost is £159.60 carriage is free. It fits all Corrado's from 1988 to 1992 1.8 16v But this is a copy exhaust and so I don't know how well it will fit. Or you could get your one which is blowing welded up, it may last another 4 or 6 months ? I my self have fitted a supersprint exhaust system to mine which has lasted over 13 years, my centre pipe has only just gone now, which I've got a replacement coming for it later today hopefully. The reason why I went for the Supersprint exhaust is that it's close to the original and so fits really well. Or there is a second hand exhaust down pipe for your Corrado 1.8 16v on Ebay, item number 251261577839 I believe it's going for £50.00 and the carriage is £15.00 Plus don't forget you'll have to replace the gasket between the exhaust manifold and down pipe, again these are on Ebay, item number is 310599664373 Or try Euro Car Parts ? Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:
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I've looked in to this as well. The early Corrado wings are still available from VW Heritage they are £312.00 plus carriage, shipping is 3 to 6 weeks from Germany. I’ve thought about purchasing the early wing and changing the wheel arch to that of the later wing, this can be done by cutting out the bulge of the arch and changing them over by welding them in, or just to build the arch out to that of the late wing by using fibre glass or you could use lead, which they used back in the day. My mate is a panel beater who said he might be able to do something ? I’m not promising anything but there could be a chance to get these dam late wings sorted out for good. Carbon fiber is good but it’s just too expensive, and a whole wing made out of fibre glass may well crack over time, the only other thing which might be good is to have them made out of aluminium. My mate has made panels before out of steel and aluminium for some vehicles, but it’s not a cheap or fast process. So just modifying the early wings could be the way forward. I’ll be talking to him later today if not on Monday 22nd April 2013, as my O/S/F wing is rusted but only lower down near to the door sill, so I’ll find out what he thinks regarding the Corrado late wing issue. Si :thumbleft:
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Yeah I think (1992 to 94 was OBD1) has distributor (I think this was two small plugs white & black under gear stick boot) I believe you can carrier out a basic scan but you would need the adaptor plug lead (Ebay item number 190825924971) £2.49 plus you may only be able to scan the ABS system ? (1994 to 96 was OBD2) has coil pack (16 pin diagnostic plug under gear stick boot) I know you can scan the OBD2 as it has the modern 16 pin plug so you would be able to scan ECU and all the sensors. Yes that would help if you could get up a video or something, for us all to access and see what's what so to speak. Si :thumbleft:
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Yeah I think there are two types, one has separate o-rings and the other is the figure of 8 seal. You could try German & Swedish also known as Euro Car Parts. Or on Ebay item number 270608714764 box set of O-rings for £5.95 you might be able to get two of these to fit out of this set ?? Or you could try The DubNutz (TDNparts.com) I think they might be based in the states ? [email protected] or [email protected] $8.15 = to £5.35 (Fits: 12v VR6 (AAA, AFP) figure of 8 rubber seal I think their part number is 021 115 446 A Or there could be someone off here who may have some spare ones ?? Hope you get it sorted. Si :thumbleft:
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fitting inner tie rod VR6, really need to remove steering rack?
vw rule replied to jonnykillpop's topic in Drivetrain
You will only do damage to the steering rack if you rock the spanner back and forth when unscrewing or refitting the tie rod, just move the spanner until it stops, there's normally about 2mm to 3mm tolerance movement with in the rack, then unscrew the tie rod with one brisk push of the spanner when it's against it's stop. You may have to clean the female threads in the ends of the steering rack where the tie rods screw in to, as there might be some old thread lock on them from when the car was built in the factory or from last replacement. (if you don't remove the old thread lock from the threads this can course the threads to strip when fitting a new part) If you don't have the rack against it's stop in the direction of rotation which you are going, then this can result in chipped teeth with in the steering rack.[/B] Don't forget to use a little thread lock on the inner threads of the tie rod, as you don't want it to work lose in time, and put a little grease over the ball joint part of the new tie rod just before you refit / replace the rock boot. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: -
Hello Andy I bought mine off Ebay last year for my kayak, it cost about £62.00 I think. There is one on Ebay ( Automaxi Roof Bars Rack Rail For VW CORRADO ) the item number is 380462904542 I think it's going for £66.95 with free delivery. This is the one that I got. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:
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Chris Gaskell (RW1) Gathering at 1pm at Stanford Hall to Honour Him
vw rule replied to KIPVW's topic in General Car Chat
I never met Chris, sounds like he was a legend, sorry to hear he's gone. Why is it all the good people get taken, must be there's only room up stairs for the good. R I P Chris :salute: -
Yeah I think they are quite good as well the 263's, just really depends on how much power gains you want. The bigger the lobe on the cam the more it'll open the valve and the more power you'll have. But you may have to get the ECU adjusted i.e remapped so it will match the extra power gain. Si
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I think these are quite good. Sold by TSR Performance Postal Address: 1 Stockmoor Park Taunton Road Bridgwater Somerset TA6 6LD United Kingdom Tel: 1278 453036 Mobile: 07882026605 E-Mail: [email protected] Business Hours Weekdays: 08:30 - 17:30pm Saturdays: 08:30 - 12:30pm Piper Hi-lift Camshafts to Suit Golf/Corrado VR6 Engines Piper performance camshafts to suit all VR6 12 valve engines. VR6BP270H, fast road, approx 15bhp increase, 264 degree. VR6BP285H, Ultimate road camshaft, 276 degree. VR6BP300H, Rally camshaft, 294 degree. I think these cams are around £399.00 You might be able to get them a little cheaper off Ebay ?? Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 6:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:27 PM ---------- Or I think some people have done the 24v conversion to gain even more power.
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Hello I went to this ralley event back in March of this year, it was really cold weather but there were some really nice cars there though. Here are some snap shots of just a few motors. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73534[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73535[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73536[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73537[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73538[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73539[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73540[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73541[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73542[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73543[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73544[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73545[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73546[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73547[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]73548[/ATTACH] This last photo is of a car that spin off and hit a tree or something :( [ATTACH=CONFIG]73549[/ATTACH] Si
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I've bought mine and loads of other parts from AVS Car Parts The Tie Rod Only The 1.8 / 2.0 16v and G60 part n.o: 1160307138 price is £12.42 plus VAT The VR6 are part n.o 1160307184 price is £13.98 plus VAT The make / manufactuer for both is MEYLE Or to buy the tie rod complete with the track rod end is. The 1.8 / 2.0 16v and G60 (left side) part n.o: 01163 price is £22.62 plus VAT The 1.8 / 2.0 16v and G60 (right side) part n.o: 01169 price is £22.62 plus VAT The VR6 (left side) part n.o 08052 price is not listed so may have to contact them (VR6 with TRW steering rack) VR6 (right side) part n.o 08051 price is not listed so may have to contact them (VR6 with TRW steering rack) The make / manufactuer for both is FEBI You can order off the internet at AVS Car Parts or phone them on 01760 336933 This company does most of the Audi, Seat, Skoda, and VW parts. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 4:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:20 PM ---------- Hello there I bloody forgot to put the Ball Joint prices up here for you as well :bonk: Front lower ball joints The 1.8 / 2.0 16v and G60 part n.o: 03548 price is £8.22 plus VAT (complete with new bolts) the make / manufactuer is Febi The VR6 part n.o is 1160107184 price is £11.58 plus VAT (complete with new bolts) the make / manufactuer is Meyle Si
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That's what I call sods law mate :lol: Happens every time with our UK weather.
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Right mate I've found the pipe, please check the photo's to see if it is correct. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73529[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73530[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73531[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73532[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73533[/ATTACH] There is a little surface rust which I've cleaned most of it off from the ends of the pipe, it'll come complete with the 6mm bolt as well. Si