fla 9 Posted May 17, 2011 Just looking at this cost-wise, buying and fitting OBD2 plus fitting my 264 cams vs swopping with a 24v setup - the first will be around £300 all in, the 24v you can get for about 3-400, plus remap (say 300) downpipe (200). Anything else? Selling my engine will help me recover some of the cost too so on balance it may work out almost the same? Timewise - to prepare the loom for OBD2 seems the most time-consuming portion, with the 24v it is perhaps the welding of the pedal and fab'ing the downpipe plus remap/immobiliser delete. Dont know why i'm even thinking about a 24v, my car's only done 70k...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted May 17, 2011 Bloody hell, have prices gone down since I was looking at doing it. Fla I've just completed my obd2 conversion and i managed to get all the parts for about £200, now I can sell all my original parts and hopefully make half of that back so £100 for obd2 conversion is pretty dam good. to 24v unless your a bit handy with wiring your talking - between £250-600+ depending on whos doing it for the wiring - engine approx £400-800 - manifold £360ish (dubpower pricing) - drive by wire pedal (if you don't get it with engine) - remap £400 ish - then what people fail to take into account is all the small things that add up, new seals, belts etc. I reckon budgeting for £1500 would be sensible, then selling parts your still nowhere near obd2 conversion cost. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 17, 2011 ok, i'll stick with OBD2 then :( .................. only kidding, makes more sense at this stage, who has some OBD2 stuff for sale then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr lobitos 0 Posted June 1, 2011 have read this over the past few evenings,great read,has anyone got pics of finished articles Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedysmartypants 0 Posted June 29, 2011 have read this over the past few evenings,great read,has anyone got pics of finished articles yes here u go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mat-mk3 0 Posted August 2, 2011 Hi All Im putting a MK4 4Motion engine into my MK2 Golf track car. I have most of this sussed but a couple of questions. The Thermostat housing, Im thinking of using the MK4 clocks but will these work with the VR housing? Or do the MK4 sensors fit the MK3 housing? Reason i ask is there are 3 plugs on the VR one, And only one i can see on my MK4 engine. If i fitted the VR housing will the MK4 sender fit in the front of it? I might just stick with my MK3 clocks so i can use all the senders as they are from the MK3 housing. Would this work? Cheers Mat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan 24v 0 Posted August 4, 2011 I love the fact that I started this thread in 2005 and its still going strong :) have read this over the past few evenings,great read,has anyone got pics of finished articles http://psituning.com/media%20show%20page/Media%20Customer%204.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 5, 2011 Hi All Im putting a MK4 4Motion engine into my MK2 Golf track car. I have most of this sussed but a couple of questions. The Thermostat housing, Im thinking of using the MK4 clocks but will these work with the VR housing? Or do the MK4 sensors fit the MK3 housing? Reason i ask is there are 3 plugs on the VR one, And only one i can see on my MK4 engine. If i fitted the VR housing will the MK4 sender fit in the front of it? I might just stick with my MK3 clocks so i can use all the senders as they are from the MK3 housing. Would this work? Cheers Mat IMO you'd be better off treating it as a "VR6 into MK2" conversion and use the Corrado or MK3 clocks. That way you can just use the 12V thermostat housing and sensors on your 4Motion engine and both the clocks and fans / after run pump will all run as they should. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mat-mk3 0 Posted August 5, 2011 Thanks for your help. I would still keep my VR6 fancontroller so wouldnt this run the after run pump & fans? I thought these 2 looms were seperate anyway? Its going to be alot of work to get the MK4 clocks working and it is only a track car at the end of the day. The MK4 ones look too good though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted August 11, 2011 If you haven't got the VR6 parts i wouldn't bother using a VR6 fan controller though, it's easier to wire in a 24V fan controller than a 12V one, you won't need to get hold of the 3rd speed switch,plug and wiring. The 24V one used on lots of vdubs (part no ending in ...506K, or N without air con) uses an output from the ECU (white wire, pin 61 iirc) to get it's data from, then you just need an ignition live, permanent live, earth, pump feed, 2 x fan feeds (I put one via a resistor if using spal fans to give two speeds), and rad switch outputs. Don't bother with the Mk4 clocks, just use the Mk2 ones with a recalibrated tacho for 6 cylinders or Mk3 VR ones. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mat-mk3 0 Posted August 12, 2011 I have all the MK3 fan controller & Aux pump setup and working at the moment. It looks like i have the loom etc for all the MK4 fan setup so should just be a case of plugging it in. (Never works like that!) Might have to stick with my MK3 VR clocks, I will see how it works now i have all the loom! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigpants baby 0 Posted August 23, 2011 Im breaking several mk3 golf vr6 or mk4 1.8t if you need any bits or bobs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rams 0 Posted October 28, 2011 Are there any advantages of having OBD2 when going to an R32 engine with the wiring? I guess this depends on what ecu being used but weighing up options. Really got into the thread and peoples conversions and warming to the idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
20vtvw 0 Posted October 29, 2011 im putting a 2.8 4 motion into my vr ,iv got engine ,loom and ecu and will splice the vr and 4 mo loom but do i have to use the dbw or can i use cable throttle?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
20vtvw 0 Posted October 30, 2011 also what can i remove from the engine??there is a valve on the front right of my inlet manifold but its not connected to anything,,can this be removed or do i need it ??also at the rear of the engine just below the throttle body there was an air pipe coming from a valve ,does this just get blocked off??appart from that everything looks pretty straight forward,, thanks for any help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R & S Engineering 10 Posted November 15, 2011 Anybody got a picture of what needs to be done to the front mount in order to clear the oil filter housing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RitchieR32 10 Posted November 25, 2011 Here's an example of mine: [ATTACH=CONFIG]50360[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50361[/ATTACH] I modified it to give it more strenght, added an extra mounting point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 25, 2011 Just to clarify, you only need to modify the front mount if you intend to fit the R32 heat exchanger. Most people stick with the 12V heat exchanger. My R32 conversion certainly runs a lot cooler than my 12V ever used to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RitchieR32 10 Posted November 25, 2011 Here is another picture during test fitting: [ATTACH=CONFIG]50362[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RitchieR32 10 Posted November 25, 2011 Indeed, you only need to modify if your using the R32 oil cooler, the 12v cooler wil fit without modifications. I used the R32 one because I think it's better in cooling power. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 25, 2011 Cheers Ritchie, great pics! Yeah the R32 cooler is more efficient. Maybe in the summer I might do the engine mount mod if the temps get too high :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted November 25, 2011 I personally think a custom dry sump setup would be better... :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RitchieR32 10 Posted November 25, 2011 And who's gonna pay for that shiny new custom dry sump??? :bonk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites