Reggit

If it was me thinking about the car, I'd want to see a recent MOT failure report - so you know what you are letting your self in for MoT wise. I'd also want to see if the seller would let me change some/all of the HT leads if a deal was close, but wanted to check the health of the engine before commiting. If he wouldn't be willing to let me look at this, I would suspect something fishy. It's always a possibility that he didn't reseat a lead correctly when he changed the plugs as they can be awkward to do without the proper tool.;

Only got 102k on my VR, considered flogging it a couple of times as it only does 2-4k a year. Got a works van and motorbikes are my summer love so the 'rado ain't used much. But it doesn't stand me at a lot, and a replacement would be slower and crappier than a more recent runabout so it's staying. I'd be interested in what quality cars your mates have and do they really own them or does a finance company.

http://www.parcel2go.com is one of my favourite. DHL's online service IIRC. They'll pick up from where ever stated, max weight is 20kg I think.

£630 for my '93 VR with 102,000 - tag another couple of grand on to it and I may have considered! (Nah maybe not)

Sound like the immoboliser reader coil has become dislodged from the steering column (assuming it has a factory fit immob)

I've got vagcom and am quite often in/around manchester during the working week. let me know whereabouts you are and can meet up to look at it if you want.

Mine blows mor onto the screen on drivers side. Always assumed this was deliberate to clear the drivers field of view sooner than the passengers.

I'd try the ECU relay first off - can't remember the number off the top of my head, but a quick search will probably find it. About £15 for a genuine one, it'll be worth changing the fuel pump relay at the same time as well. I was having no end of starting problems, changing these 2 relays cured it.

That's explain the mayo - you're not using the car. As butterfly said it won't do it any good just sitting there not been used. A vehicle needs to be used otherwise fluids/seals start to degrade. If you look at classic car storage places, they all recommend that the car has a 20 mile run every 2 months to keep it in full working condition. If you want to keep it but not use it, I would advise draining all fluids from the vehicle. OK, possibly not the brake/clutch fluid, although the seals are still likely to need replacement when you recommission it. Guess how I know!

Know nothing about the 16v motors (so this may not be possible on them), but have you looked at your air filter/plugs? Sounds like you could have a blocked crankcase breather, worst case, engine pressurises and blows oil into the air intake and oils the plugs. You'll know if air filter oiled and/or plugs.

Just sounds like condensation to me. Like the post above says,take it out for a good run, I'm betting the white steam from the exhaust will clear after 15 mins or so. Usually a core plug would let go before anything else, as they are there for that purpose.

Definately possible, and has been done. Have a look at thisthread. Don't know what effect the LHD will have, it may be covered in the thread as I haven't read it all.

Can I have 2 please?

Yeah,that's correct. OBD1 system with a OBD2 socket.

Look under your gearstick gaitor, lift it from the rear and it'll pop off its clips. Forward of the gearstick you should see either a 2 x 2pin connectors, coloured black and white, or a rectangular (ish) connector. AFAIK the rectangular (ish) one is refered to as an OBD2 connector even though it's connected to the earlier diagnostic system on the Corrado. If you look here you'll see the type of cable you need. That's pointing to the genuine cables, if you want to scour ebay for a copy there's loads around. Hope that's not too confusing!

Mine came from Justmatz- good quality, just starting to look a little scruffy on drivers side after 6 years. Will use them again when it comes to replacement.

Loves: looks spoiler - sad I know VR6 'soundtrack' Seating position Hates: Front spoiler hits the road every time I leave my drive even at standard ride height. Multiple things go wrong at the same time After 6 years of owning it people still call it a :censored: scirocco or golf Group 18 insurance Dealers not ordering the right bits when you clearly point out what you need.

This is a screenshot of mine after an Autoscan. Don't know if it's what you want to compare to?

Fully charge the battery rather than jumping it. Or put a known good one on. If a battery's died, jump starts don't allways work.

I had a cheap fleabay cable for a while and it worked well at first, but then just died. If you go this route, software versions 3.11 and 4.08 I think are supposed to work - downloadable from the ross-tech website. I replaced mine with a genuine ross-tech cable, never had problems with communications with that one. As to USB or serial - Personally I'd go USB as serial ports are rare these days on laptops, if you change your lappy, you may not be able to use the lead if you go for serial.

If that doesn't work the chances are that the battery is flat and needs charging or a jump start.

If you can get a hose off then do it as ice expands when it starts to defrost, that's when problems can occur. Otherwise let it defrost naturally, whatever you do don't try and run the engine. As the above says, you'll only know if there is damage when it's all thawed out.

Check your battery terminals are tight - in fact, uncouple the battery, grease the terminals with something like 'coppaslip' available from any car parts place. Then reconnect the battery. It's also possible that the battery is just flat if something's been left on in the car - interior light or something.

I take it that it's not a genuine lead as this automatically fully activates the software. I thought the shareware version of vagcom allowed you to read and clear codes - they must have changes something. Ross-tech will sell you an activation code for $99 See here. Probably not what you wanted to hear.

On this subject, is there an easy way to remove the old mirror glass? I've one to do but can't workout how to get the old one off, short of putting a finely calibrated hammer through it.