Reggit

That alone has been known to cure dodgy running in the past. It's just possible that a connector has a bit of muck or corrosion on it, reseating it cleans it off and restores normal operation. (works well on dodgy electrical stuff as well) Just keep your fingers crossed!

Ahh, that explains all. I've never been too happy with it since autogl... lets say a major chain of fitters, put a new screen in a few years ago. I'm hoping to find somewhere reputable to do it again this year.

How is the rubber trim that looks like a seal but isn't supposed to be fastened in? Mine is coming away and looks rather unsightly, there looks to be silicone in the channel, is this right? Ta for any advice.

Just 1 for me - but the best. :D Moonlight Blue VR6 had it for just over 5 years.

Mawrick's right about the relay (18) being the load reduction one, I was having a 'senior moment'! :roll: According to bentley, the higher relay board, where your fuses are, vary depending on vehicle and option content. However, I haven't found mention of fuses fitted there yet. Found the following in the 'instruction manual' that was supplied new with the car (on page 111 if you have the book) Looks like the mystery fuses are probably for the ABS I was wrong with the fuse number for the fuel pump, it's 18 in the main bank, probably worth a look.

Don't know all of them, and haven't found the bit with the 2 fuses in on mine. relay 18 which you marked 3 is for the ABS (as least on my VR6). I'll look into the other bits later.

I can't see the fuse you mean on mine. Here's a (blurry) picture of my board, compare it with yours and see if we are talking about the same thing. If not, what model and age is your car? I'll look it up in Bentley manual.

bcstudent is right afaik, the emmissions related tax only covers cars registered from 1st March 2001. And there is a lot of uproar about them raising taxes retrospectively if you read around a bit, but it won't affect our fuel guzzling C's.

I think it's your battery and at a guess you may have a cell gone. It may show the correct voltage, but won't be able to supply enough current to turn the starter. I would borrow another one and try that, jump leads may not work if the battery is goosed. Why did you have to recharge it in the 1st place - OK I know it must have been flat ....

Fuse 8 (I think) is for the fuel pump (and spoiler) Relay 67 - blue one - in the lower right of the fuse/relay board is also for the fuel pump.

I think most people just see them as an expensive to run unreliable old car at the minute. Give it a few more years and I think the prices will start to appreciate.

I've got a side exit .... the doors. :D That's not what you mean is it?

Mine's going tappety as well, but not 'chainey'. Mileage is dead on 100k, I'm just ignoring it at the minute until it needs something else doing on the top end. Oil changes haven't affected my noise, however it's only really noticably loud with the bonnet up.

Look here for forced induction stuff. By the way, all VR6 motors came with timing chance from new. Some get rattly about 110k miles and need new chains and tensioners fitting whilst others plod along quite happily for many 10's of thousands more miles on the originals.

Nah, not silly. Two unrelated and non essential items shere that fuse - the spoiler and err the fuel pump (oh yeah, that one's essential!)

67

When I had to have my screen replaced about 2 years ago, the fitting shop told me how they had done a good job by getting it to sit on 'all that rust'. It's cracked again now, by the look of it though bad fitting. I need to find somewhere in Lancashire who can fit me a new screen on insurance, but, whilst it's out take it to a body shop to get the aperture(sp?) sorted out - does that make sense? The question; Can anyone recommend somewhere to take it? It won't be going back to the dodgy national chain it went to last time.

Took me a couple of seconds as well! :shock:

What car you got? When it's hot, check the temperature of your top and bottom radiator hoses, they should both be hot. If not you've no coolant circulating.

I'd suspect the thermostat stuck in the closed position.

I'm posting this on behalf of someone from the Yamaha RD forum I use. He's had his Mk1 Escort nicked. If not suitable for general car chat, will a mod please shift it to somewhere suitable. Ta. See link and this threadfor further details. Thanks all.

Glad it's all nice and happy again :clap:

Have you tried a blow torch and lots of plus gas?

Have you checked that there are no tracking marks on the inside of the dissy 'lid', small dark lines running through the plastic? It's just vaguely possible that a little water vapour is thrown up and causes the spark to arc to the wrong place. Also check the little carbon brush in the centre of the dissy cap.

Won't that hydraulic it if there more than a little water there? If I did this, I'd spin the engine with the plugs out to blow any water into the exhaust. I once had a similar issue with my VR after driving down a causeway that was still submerged, it would only run on about 3 cylinders after starting and kept cutting out/lost power intermittently for 2 or 3 days following that adventure. I do suspect it's only wet electrics as I can't see how the timing could have moved.