
Reggit
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Everything posted by Reggit
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Left my old spitfire for about 7 years when the floor fell out of it - took about half a day to get it going again. The worst is that the fuel will go off after about a year and will require draining, and as has been said, tyres will perish if stood in the same position for an extended period.
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Blue and yellow sensors are the water temperature ones aren't they?
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Ok then, anyone owned my vr6 before L390XDG? I've had it for 7 years though and believe it lived it's previous lifes in the southern half of the country. Bought it on eBay (from worthing) after a night out. The wonders of eBay and beer!
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Good to see you got it woken from its slumber - nice one.
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It's just another word for the rev counter mate. Never had mine out, but I believe not too horrendous a job. There'll be a few threads on here if you search I'm sure.
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If it has a 4 cylinder tacho fitted it will read about 50% high as it is counting 4 sparks per revolution and not 6. You definitely need to find out if the correct unit is fitted and fit one from a VR if unsure.
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It isn't fitted to UK cars unfortunately. It's probably telling you that there's a sensor or the wiring to one playing up. Have you scanned it for fault codes?
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VCDS will show an intermittent crank sensor (at least it did last time I scanned a car with a faulty one) as a seperate entry to a 'no signal error' that you get when the engine is stopped.
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Doubt the wiring is there if it wasn't originally fitted. As to the sender it really depends on the gauge you get (how high it reads) and get a sender to suit. The other crucial thing is the thread diameter and pitch need to be correct. I won't even hazard a guess for a 16v as I don't have one - I'm sure someone will come up with the answer shortly. There's a fitting guide somewhere on here - although it relates to the G60 and VR6 I'm sure the 16v won't be much different if at all.
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I'd guess at a failed lambda probe, but you really need to get it scanned for fault codes to be sure. There's a sticky thread showing people with the gear to do this and their locations.
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Got mine from Halfrauds cos I was desperate at the time, was about £100 for a heavy duty (calcium?) one if I remember
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Disastrous Clatter From VR6 - tensioner bolt causes rebuild!
Reggit replied to MikLSP's topic in Engine Bay
If you're still stuck on Tuesday and need it towing (on a rope) give me a shout as I'm only a few miles from where your car is stranded. Typically I'm away until late Monday. -
Ouch! Are vege still doing recon abv engines? A few people on here has used them. I think the last price I saw was around £1800. But then it is essentially a brand new motor. Good luck with it.
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Definately an earth issue on the indicators - and as Majic also said, the grinding on starting is likely to be a gummed up starter. Good luck and nice buy - hope you get the shower sorted!
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Possibly - get it on VCDS and see. Mine's being a sod, but I know the BTS needs changing.
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As said, it's the wipers - it lives on the bottom row, 2nd from left
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Do the 24v's still use an ECU relay? If so, I'd be having a look there first, although that wouldn't explain it getting hot.
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Saw a L reg blue 'un (dark blue, but lighter than moonlight) today on Princess Road Manchester about 3pm - didn't get close enough to spot the variant. Was 2 cars back behind in the works transporter van :(
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Bypass the engine earth straps to test by connecting a jump lead from the battery -ve to a clean metal part of the engine/gearbox then give it a try. If that doesn't work, I suspect the battery may be goosed and unable to supply the current required to turn the starter despite charging it. Have you got another known good one you can try?
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Hello, No such thing as a silly question in my book. Sunroof - this is a very common fault, have a search around, but in the meantime I've dug out thisthread which may help you determine where the fault lies. Fan motor - they are supposed to be a 4 speed, but I believe the same motor with a different (3 speed) resistor pack was used on the mk2 golf. My guess is the unit has been swapped complete.
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Check the carbon brush under the dissy cap where the king lead fits, this should make contact with the centre of the rotor arm - it may have worn away, if it has you won't get a spark.
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If I read that right, it will start from cold but not hot? Have you checked for fault codes with vagcom? I would at first suspect the blue temp sensor at fault, but could be a host of other stuff as well
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If you mean you want to fit the aux gauge panel with the oil/volt gauges - then they won't fit an early dash as the cubby hole is a lot smaller in the early one. There was a version for the early dash which was a plastic panel with 2 52mm holes for round gauges.
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You can drive to an MOT Test station if you are pre booked but you must always have a vehicle licence disc if you are driving on the open highway. It's insurance you must always have. What happens if the car's been off the road for a while, is on sorn and the MOT has run out? from the dvla site http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/HowToTaxYourVehicle/DG_069671