Reggit

Bugger! gutted for you - but like others have said the main thing is that you're unhurt.

It might! If it's cracked and moisture is getting to on of the coils, it may be shorting out. When the engine warms up and the moisture evaporates there's no more short. Test is with a plant mister type spray at night ant see if you get a nice display of errant sparks.

yes - Turn car off - get out and close door - open door again and the windows still work - when you next close the door they turn off. I don't have an ammeter so can't measure mine, but the car can be left for 2-3 weeks and will still start ok although the starter will sound a little sluggish.

I hate to tell you this, but the crank sensor will show on vagcom if the engine isn't running. Things to replace before jumping to conclusions that something expensive is broken. 1. ignition switch 2. Fuel pump relay 3. ECU relay These are all getting on now if original, the ignition switch is the cause of so many non-start problems if you read around the forums and a cheap and easy fix.

Have you/they checked the ECU relay?

Relays are seated properly. Don't know if there's a spark as I've never bothered pulling a plug out and trying again (when knowing my luck it will move on to number 2 and 3). Fuel pump is good - whines a little, and is on the list for replacement, but still works OK. Immobiliser is thought good, it's about a 3/4 years old cobra unit. It's just puzzling me as to why it always needs the 3 turns of the key to start when warm. :scratch:

I'm got this 'interesting' starting problem with a warm (not hot or cold) engine, it does the following; 1. Turn key to start position - the engine spins over but won't fire. 2. Turn off then back to start - the engine won't spin. 3. Off then to start again - starts normally as you would expect. Recently I've changed the usuall suspects for genuine VAG items, fuel pump relay, ECU relay and ignition switch. There are no recorded fault codes. I'm considering changing the blue temp sensor as it's about 5 years old now, and the only thing I could consider to be causing a heat related non-start. The car starts perfectly when cold or hot, it's just when it's cooled a bit I get the troubles. Anyone got any ideas as I'm stumped?

My leccy windows stay active until the ignition is turned off and the drivers door is closed, opened and closed again. Not sure if it does it with the passenger side or if it stays active with the car locked. Makes sense if you think about it, you can just open the door and close this window if you've left it open without faffing around with the keys.

I'm just fitted an OEM oil/volt gauge, and fitted it following a guide on here. Essentially, I've removed the dash light sender and replaced it with a dual pole sender, wired gauge to one pole and the dash light to the other. However now the dash light is flashing at idle with a warm engine. There's nothing wrong with the oil pressure - it's just below 2 bar, some something amiss with the wiring. I'm looking to get this working correctly, will i need to use a t-piece but would rather not if possible. How have others wired their oil pressure gauge senders to retain the dash warning light?

Bad luck about the motor mate :( There's one just gone up for sale in the classifieds here.

From what little I know :0 The blue sensor supplies the engine temperature to the ECU so it can work out fuelling The yellow sensor supplies the dash gauge There's sometimes a 3rd sensor in there, i think it's for the air-con and fitted but not used to some non air con cars. The 70 or 80 degree sensor you are talking about is actually the thermostat. I would never fit a low temperature one to a standard car, they would just cause it to run cool and possibly mask an underlying issue. I'd just get a normal one from VW. Can't say if replacement of that lot would sort your coolant loss out as obviously it depends where it's leaking from.

Have you tried just jacking each wheel off the ground and spinning it/feeling for excess play? You can often feel a bearing being a bit rough if it's on its way out.

Blocked engine breathers? don't know about 16v's, but have known other cars to eat their own oil via the induction side when the breathers are blocked. This will eventually lead to oiled up plugs. Everything you describe sounds to be related to a blocked breather pipe somewhere, if this is the issue, then you will likely have an air cleaner flooded in oil.

They must have a different coding somewhere as iirc, storms are group 19 insurance where as a standard VR6 is 18.

Have you checked the exhaust manifold for a crack, or a failed gasket. That can sometimes give a knocking-esque type noise.

Wow - good to see one of these opening reasonably near me. Racking brain on what I need to do under the cars at the minute... Thanks for the link

OK - so you're not loosing coolant, therefore it can't be being burnt by the engine, there are lots of scare stories on t'interweb that you need a new engine etc when there is actually nothing wrong.... I still say it's condensation. If the car's been stood or is only used for short journeys, it can take a good while to evaporate away. Stat - it's ages since I did mine, and can't remember if it physically fits the wrong way round - may be worth a check. I wouldn't drill holes in it, you'll most likely distort it and it won't work as intended. Best check to see if it's working is to take it off the car and put it in a pan of water - heat the water, you'll see the stat open before the water reaches boiling point.

For a generic lead, you'll need either 311 or 409 - try one, if that doesn't work try the other.

It may well be condensation, but, are you loosing coolant when the car is running normally?

One of my front seats no longer tilts to give access to the rear. When I've looked, the cable which operates the lock on the side furthest from the lever has gone slack - although it doesn't appear broken as it still moves to some degree. Is there any way of adjusting/repairing this without pulling the seat apart?

I'm sure you need one on the drivers side and another mirror - be it a passenger side wing/door mirror or central rear view mirror.

Do you live near Clitheroe by any chance? I don't use mine daily as I have a works van, it does live outside on the drive though as I've no garage :(

Is that the one off Kent Street? I used to like that place for rummaging around in. Shame if H&S has stopped the fun.

wasnt it the 2.8 with the pepperpot wheels???? I'm sure it was the RS 3.1

Have you asked the guy on here who's breaking the G60 Jet - it's a LHD car and may have LHD headlights on it.