Reggit

To test clutch, try and set off in 1st gear with the handbrake on. If the engine stalls then the clutch is ok, if it doesn't the clutch is goosed. Don't try it for too long, or the clutch will be knackered.

Can some one edit me on the first post please. I've just upgraded to a genuine! ross-tech hex+can cable and have 2x2 adapter so can do any VAG vehicle with from OBD1 2x2 to CANbus stuff. using version 908 software if that means anything.

It could be the pedal position sensor - this makes the abs light work as normal on start up on then off, then it only comes back on when you press the brakes. At least it did on mine. Where abouts are you? if your near me I'll try my vagcom lead, it's a genuine ross-tech and seems to read units where the cheap ebay ones won't. Ended up buying it cause I got sick of comms errors and no connections with a copy lead.

Connection is good, already checked it. Looks like I'll be in the stealership again tomorrow.

Don't know about the injectors, haven't worked out how to get to them yet. I'm suspicious though as there's no smell of fuel after periods of cranking. This is the main reason I'm a little suspicious of the crank PS.

Nah, it's only a few years old and a decent Cobra system. Started to wonder if the Crank sensor has gone again although it's only about 5 years and 20k miles old. It's the one thing I can't rule out with Vagcom. Is there a definitive way of testing the CPS?

This has stumped me, the :censored: thing VR6 won't start, engine turns over and battery good. Have changed Fuel pump relay, ECU relay and ingintion switch in last couple of months. Fuel pump appears to prime, can feel it run when ignition is turned on (hand on top of pump) VAGCOM reports no engine faults. Any suggestions where to check next? Thanks. Edit - just found out that there's no spark.

about 200 euro with postage - I think I'll wait for the exchange rate to get better - or just not bother

Here's mine. I wanted to keep the lighter for my satnav so I invaded the cubby hole. I also have a set of 3 gauges of the older style that I'll be selling on - gauges only, no mounts. I bought them of Henny, but then found a set of the newer gauges which suits my car better in my opinion. The camera makes that mount look like poo - it's not that horrible in reality! :lol:

It won't be mentioned in the service book as the chains/tensioners were supposed to last the lifetime of the engine. It just turns out that there was a weakness with the tensioner pad which means it can wear out prematurely. Some cars seem to need them changing earlier than others.

I'd forget vagcom for a while and compression test it first of all. running on 5 and fuel in the sump could be pointing to a (at worst case) damaged pot or piston. Fuel pump relay is 67 - bottom row right hand side and usually blue coloured.

If you still have any, can you put me down for a 3 relay one please.

I lift mine from the front - just watch the securing clips may rotate 90 degrees, no probs, just push 'em back. The VR may have 2 small plugs or one big one depending on age, not sure just when the change over was.

A steering knuckle could also be a U/J on the column instead of a track rod end.

With difficulty! I was convinced it was coming from the rear side window, so had that taken out and refitted - needless to say the leak was still there. Eventually pulled the rear seats and trim out and waited for a rainy day - living in the North of England it was quicker to wait for rain than fill a bucket :D - it was then easy to see what was happening.

I'd a weird one, it was the gasket on the tailgate hinge blots. Water was tracking down the rear wash piping, then under the rear side window before entering the cabin near the front passenger side seat belt.

You need a thick piece of cable to do this, use a decent quality jump lead or similar gauge cable.

Don't know about the MAF, but have sent you a PM about how to shorten links.

I know jack all about chargers, but that sounds like you've got a bearing gone. I wouldn't be running that car until you sort the problem out or it may go BANG and make $$ disappear quickly.

Just done a quick mock up of the gauges in the centre console, decided to try leaving the fag lighter in place as it's useful - what do you all think? I'm a bit miffed I've got the radius wrong on the right hand side. Next question, is it easy to re-colour the needles, they're a bit more orange than I'd like. - forget that, I just realised that I've got the older version of the gauges, I'll keep an eye out for replacements (possibly) Yes I know it's a bit dusty!

Mystic Blue storm spotted today on the Thelwall viaduct (M6 south) about 4ish (reg ended in KAM - I think). I was in my green Triumph Spitfire.

Kip, I'd be interested in seeing the pics as well, fancy sticking them on the thread. I've got exactly the same problem. Last time I had a screen fitted (Badly), the fitters where proud to tell me what a good job they'd done by getting it to stick to 'all that rust' - I wasn't all that happy. Now the screens broke again in the bottom corners and the seal trim keeps falling off.

Check your oil, undo filler cap, if it's white and creamy this is caused by water contamination - if the car is usually only used for short runs, it could be condensation and nothing to worry about. To check if it's hydraulic locked, take the plugs out and see if the engine then turns. It would be interesting to put some kitchen towel loosly over the plug holes to see if anything gets spat out of the cylinders.

The buzzing when turning ignition on 'could' be the aux water pump - does the sound come from the front or rear of the car? I've had lots of starting issues over the last few months - finally replaced fuel pump relay (67), which just about cured all of them. I still get a very occasional non-start which I suspect is the ignition switch (again!). Have a new one, but haven't got round to putting in in yet. Also, don't discount the battery as said above. I've just had to replace mine, and was suprised how much livelier the car was to drive, I guess the alternator was loaded up constantly previously.

I know a few have fitted the auxillary audi gauges into the C dash, where the ashtray and lighter lived. How easy is this to do, and make a half reasonable job of it? Any issues that make fitting awkward? If I go ahead, I will most likely get a spare dash centre section, so I can modify it in comfort.