Reggit

If you haven't sussed it yet, here's how. Use the 'reply with quote' button. Looks a bit like a right arrow at the top right of the post.

It won't fit the early interior. The cubby hole is a different size. The early one had two circular VDO's fitted in the cubby hole.

Ok, I was going off your link. I can never remember which side the curve is on and I've had mine 6 years!

If you're buying them, be careful to get the right version. The one you've pictured is for a left hand drive car, they're not quite symmetrical.

I had a cheapy serial cable of fleabay which worked fine for a while, then gave up the ghost. It would occasionally be seen by the lappy, but never by the car. Gave up wasting time in the end and bought a genuine hex+can USB cable. That's never given me any trouble.

The engine speed sensor (crank sensor) is located on the front of the engine just above the sump. It's secured by a 5mm i think allen bolt. If this fails it stops the injectors and ignition (so no fuel or spark). VagCOM will report this as faulty if the engine is stopped, that's just a bug with the cars fault reporting.

Have you checked the obvious like fuel and spark? - My initial thoughts would be with the fuel pump.

Sounds very low - does yours have the 12 or 15 gallon tank? My VR does 3-400 per tank depending on useage, so I'd expect you'd get more from a 16v if it shares the larger fuel tank.

Only on the later cars. The earlier ones non't have the immobiliser on them. think it was introduced some time in 1994, so if the car is earlier there ain't a factory immobiliser on it. I'm interested in this as mine sometimes exhibits this issue - won't start first time when hot, it needs a 2nd turn of the key then always starts. Mines had new ECU and fuel pump relays and a new ignition switch. No fault on VAGCOM. I'll watch the thread with interest.

I agree with Toad - Oil thins as it gets hot, you could be loosing pressure. Your oil temps seem too warm for my taste as well. I haven't seen the temp on my VR much over 110.

Damn right. I'm itching to get in it for a drive. I used to go to north Lancs club GTI years gone by and have lost touch with regional meets. Any worth a look ? Not into the car meeting scene as such, so no idea I'm afraid.

Saw a blue (mystic?) corrado about lunchtime today in or near Cheadle. N ***CAR i think - I was in my lovely works astra van. Suspect it was a VR storm, as I saw an extra badge on the back in my mirror.

Good to see it recieving the attention, and good look with the toasty dash :( . Hopefully I'll see you around in it when your back on the road.

His mates cable will have the later rectangular-ish connector whilst the Corrado to about '93 has the 2 x 2pin connectors. The cheap ebay cable converts the OBD2 style plug to the early 2x2 style. Is that what you mean. By the way, I get 31-32ish on a run and mid - high 20's for anything else.

ebay for the adapters, just search 'vagcom 2x2'

Worst case - you have a head gasket failed, cylinder to water jacket. This does tend to make the coolant run hot though. I'd look at getting a sniffer test done to check that there's no exhaust gasses in the coolant.

Definately fiddly to change, but not hard. When mine died, the ABS would be OK for a random period of time then fail. The sensor is mechanical, so will be quite worn by now.

I'd suspect the blue temp sender has failed - it tells the ECU what the coolant temp is - and the fuel/air mix isn't richening for cold running. Anyone got VAgcom near you to check it out?

Check the wiring to your temp sensors as the fault returned after changing it. A duff lambda will make the car run like poo, it will also drink lots of petrol. I'd be at least looking at the wiring around and to the sensor, and would probably change the sensor if the wiring appears good. And to be the bearer of bad news, vagcom will always throw the engine speed sensor if the engine isn't running.

I think fuse 16 is the spoiler and fuel pump from memory.

I've just cured a similar problem (I hope), my occasional starting issue suddenly turned into a complete non-start issue. I changed the ECU relay, ignition switch, fuel pump relay was already new. Even tried the crank sensor - got a cheap one off ebay. None made a difference. Found that the ECU connector was damp, there was wet dead leaves and stuff in the scuttle area - I suspect this was causing a humid atmosphere around the ECU. Sprayed everything in WD40 pending proper clean up and 20 minutes later it started first time and has benn fine since.

Part of the chain tensioner?

Have you tried having someone gently trying to lift the bonnet on the stuck side whilst you pull the release lever? Mine used to stick on the passenger side, I found that usually worked.

Blooming heck driving the dog for a walk :scratch: I have to walk mine or it complains a lot. On a slightly more serious note - check the battery terminals are well made and the battery is secure. The connections could just be going high resistance under cornering one way if something has come adrift. That could cause crap running.

Ended up getting a cheap pattern sensor off ebay. Put it in and ... no start :censored: Think I've sussed it now - well got the car running at least and how simple is this. I think the ECU connections are getting damp, there's a black cover over the passenger side of the scuttle covering the fresh air intake, it's full off dead leaves and stuff under ther and very wet. The cover won't come off though, looks like it's been stuck on with windscreen sealant. I gave the ECU cabling a liberal soaking with WD40 and 10 minutes later it started 1st turn of the key. Tomorrows job when I've got more time is to get the blooming cover off and clean and dry the area. Fingers crossed that'll be the end of the random no starts. It makes sense though now, the car was only ever a git to start when it was cold and worse in damp weather, when hot never a problem.