_Matt_

I suppose it could be burning oil too, it's just I've never seen the puffs of blue and have had my wife follow while I drive. If sporadic I would miss it though. I might have got the 1/2 litre thing wrong but will keep a proper log now.

Cheers Keyo. I was hoping to have a cheaper year this year having spent £3,750 on it last year!

Cheers guys. The crank seal probably should be changed when having chains done, along with the clutch. The crank seal sits behind the flywheel so would be a little bit more effort but well worth doing... I've spent a couple of hours looking around and stripping bits off. Some pictures and laughable text annotations... I think I have a couple of leaks; 1) a light leak around the bottom right of the rocker cover (but this could just be overflow from poor oil filling). See pics, moist oil also spreads slight underneath inlet manifold behind the electrical connector). 2) I believe the Crank Seal is probably leaking too. Oil above gearbox, behind thermostat (could that be head gasket too?) and quite a bit of oil around sump and gear box join. Oil has spread over as far as the power steering pump Pics Sump/Gearbox [ATTACH=CONFIG]95756[/ATTACH] PS Pump [ATTACH=CONFIG]95759[/ATTACH] Upper timing chain cover/behind coil pack (3 pics at diff angles..) [ATTACH=CONFIG]95762[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]95765[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]95768[/ATTACH] Back of engine in-line with exhaust manifold [ATTACH=CONFIG]95771[/ATTACH] Ahhh, what next. Well I'll take Hasan's advice and clean it up with degreaser and put some Forte stop leaks in for now. I do not feel confident enough to take all this apart on my drive (wish I had a garage!). I'll get my VAG mechanic to take a look but if doing crank then it's quite a list of jobs that will follow whilst it gets stripped down - clutch and chains for sure, concerned it could be head gasket too. There is dark colour that has appeared at bottom of the (new) header tank too: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95774[/ATTACH] It would probably be easier and cheaper to pop 1.8t in there if it turns into a couple of grands worth of work.

Cheers Keyo. Just done the pressure switches (as they were leaking too!). The oil cooler looked fine a couple of months ago... but you never know. It’s had a new sump but the oil is leaking higher up. Fun times. May as well have a full top end refurb, head gasket plus some 268 cams if doing the chains.

Hi all, I've had a leak for a while that has now got quite a bit worse - 1/2 litre of oil leaked over the last 200 miles. The oil is all on the timing chain side of the engine and covers from about half way down the timing chain casing to the sump and bell housing, plus splatters over the draft-shaft. Recently I fixed a leaking oil pressure sensor but this is all new oil now as I wiped that lot off at the time. I took a picture of the leak from the rear - view is from top down and looks moist with oil about halfway down, in line with the exhaust manifold level. Oil is also escaping from the front, behind the thermostat but I wasn't able to get a clear picture. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95753[/ATTACH] When I changed the coil pack earlier this year I noticed oil on the tips of the threads too. The rocker cover gasket/top of the engine appear largely dry. This to me is pointing to some sort of failed seal on the timing chain cover. What do you guys think? I have no history of the chains being replaced and have been saving the pennies for this job (but unfortunately I can't do it right now). I'm assuming around £1k for this job. I have a mobile VAG mechanic but unsure whether to give this job over to him as he hasn't seen many VR6 engines and hasn't done a chain on one these before....Stealth is an hour away so is an option. The car has done 151k with FSH but has had little use in the last 7 years with only around 10k being covered in that time. I've been trying to use the car more but I guess things have started to perish over the last few years. I've also spotted a coolant leak under the rad too. Joys.

I can't directly help but where did you source seat foam? I can feel springs/metal after sitting in my drivers seat for an hour..

Oh yes most probably well past their best then. I've read the same reports re: eibach pro line / 20-25mm kits and standard shocks. When I was researching the same combo works well across other forums for other makes so it will be fine. I had this exact same headache around a year ago so feel your frustration on something that should be straight forward. Fortunately Larkspeed will sort it all out either way.

I bought my kit from Larkspeed too, they were very good at swapping over even though I bought the kit 6 months before fitting. Re: the ride though - I wouldn't have thought there would be much difference between H&R and Eibach springs. Have you got adjustable Koni's? Maybe they've been wound up to their hardest setting. Else Billy B4s should make the ride softer, being a softer shock. One point to note is that B4s aren't designed for shorter springs, that said there is probably enough tolerance in it to cater for mild lowering springs and depending where you read it's often said 20/25mm spring kits were designed to for stock shocks.

Here’s the link to the thread with pictures. Opens on the page with the correct springs. Go back a page to see the before.. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80155-Corrado-Part-Duex-24V-Aqua-Blue-She-s-gone/page66

Good luck and hope it works out fine! Some people haven’t had the problems and you could be right about the shocks - the springs were always available as a standalone product. If you google for images for corrado’s on eibach springs there’s a silver one and it looks fine (and is on standard shocks).

I’m not 100% what went wrong with eibach, corrados had different suspension up front as they changed from 4 to 5 stud plus axles. Whether the rear spring included in the kit worked well with the older set up I’m not sure. My car has a circa two finger gap between tyre and arch all the way around, whereas with the original rears I had no gap at all at the back but just over 2 fingers up front! To add more confusion to the mix earlier VR6 seemed to have lower suspension from the factory so the eibach rears may work fine in that application. My car is a 1995 and had very high suspension all round originally!

Yes that was my dilemma too - stock is far too high. The B12 has got it sitting perfectly. It looks stock in the modern world when compared to cars with sports suspension from the manufacturer. Im going to work around the bushes overtime. I can’t fault the damping characteristics and wheel control. Kayo and others - with regard to the rear springs out of the box - some kits come with rear spring that lower the car too much. These are part number: EW8513002HA The replacement springs (which eibach will send for free) are 8502002HA. I did fit both to mine. The originals had it almost on the bump stops but the replacements have more travel room and don’t require them being cut down.

I've got the correct rear springs on mine. I'm comparing to stock suspension, the body control and damping is great but I feel ruts and harsh roads etc. much more through the cabin. I think new rear beam bushes will offer so more "refinement" as that's where I feel and sense the harshness.

I have the B12 kit and I'd say the springs will probably be just as harsh as the H&R's I'm afraid. You could try renewing the bushings with OEM replacements - the rear beam will likely be long past it's best. That's my plan next!

Ahh thanks Sean. My current position is - I've got the headliner out of the car, the old material was ruined so I've got the headliner template cleaned up ready to go for some new material. I fitted a new sunroof mech and am now running a passat moonroof with a grey fabric slider panel so not the original. The fabric is very similar to the original corrado stuff. Is it possible to retrim the sunroof cassette? I've got two of them to practice on. I thought I had read it can be problematic if material isn't as thin as the original but maybe that applied to the original corrado cassette fabric thinking about it and how it work muchanically? If I can do the whole lot that's much easier as don't need to worry about matching up. I'm not that fussed if it's not exactly OEM as was just trying to tie up with the cassette material. Faux suede could work a treat if that's the case.

Cheers Hasan. Is alcantara the original material then? I'd be happy to try something similar but need it to match up to my sunroof panel.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a place to get some OEM coloured headlining material? I’ve come across a few posts recommending headlining material from here http://www.as-trim.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_200_202 but these are from people doing black lining. I did contact AS trim but they were not able to advise from experience. Thanks, Matt

I was going to use mrinjector too. He has quoted 85 to do all 6. Can’t remeber if that was plus VAT. It is probably worth changing the blue sensor (can do without draining coolant if you are quick - make sure you get the old o-ring out). FPR can be a bit of a struggle to get out of its housing and you’ll likely chew the old one in the process.

I've had similar issues and replaced most things too - Crank, Cam, Coil, leads, Coolant sensors, Thermostat, FPR, Fuel Relay. None of it made a difference unfortunately. Recently I installed a one way valve at the fuel pump and it seems to have made some difference. This was on recommendation of a few chaps on here. I usually like to understand how something has fixed the issue but don't get it on this one. The FPR is supposed to maintain pressure in the rail so a one way valve keeping more fuel in the line shouldn't make a difference. Cold starts are fine so you'd assume the issue would be present when cold if it was a fueling issue. I'm not aware of whether the fuel pump serves more fuel on cold vs hot starts. My other port of call is the injectors. I'm similar mileage (151k) and believe they've never been serviced. Leaky fuel injectors would cause warm starting issues as they leak fuel held in the rail into the cylinders. When warm this would flood the engine but when cold most of it will have evaporated. Worn injectors also cause performance issues and idle vibration (I have this too). I'll be whipping them out for servicing (

I have a Bremi on mine. I was looking for a Beru as supposedly better but no problems with mine. I've also bought one of those plates that sit between the coil pack and the engine to limit the temperatures to avoid the cracking. There is a guy on the facebook group making them for around £25, comes with longer bolts too - Matthew Huggins is the fella to contact.

ahh small world - I have them on mine too! Good luck with the testing..!

Actually another idea - you could swap the lead to another cylinder and see if it responds the same or if you have a multimeter check the resistance of the lead (set to Ohms). Prob best to whip a few of the leads off to compare resistance readings.

Ahh sorry I was in a webex at work so mis-read. Doesn't sound like the coilpack then but might be worth inspecting. If you're after leads I bought a set from https://mrretroleads.co.uk/ circa £50 & hand made by him.

Beru was the other "good" make but I've got a Bremi on mine. You could take it off and check for cracks and glue it as a temp. fix

That’s weird, I’m doing the same and only see stuff from America (out of stock) and some vwparts international (out of stock too!) There is one for sale for 69 quid from America on eBay. Hmm I might need to try another computer