VEEDUBBED

I take it you've connected the ecu line to the correct nipple on the throttle body? Easy to mix them and gives the exact problem once warmed up. CO pot set to 450/500 Ohm? Lambda probe's wiring ok? Not rock hard and ready to snap? Fuel pressure ok? FPR's rubber pipe ok? Does the engine run rich with both a hot and cold engine?

Dave, I need one of your brackets for my car mate. Send me details about payment, just the bracket without any drill bit or tap. Cheers.

What eeprom I inside the ecu? Original engine or modified? Bigger injectors, smaller g60 pulley and so on. Need a bit more info mate.

Jack up the front of the car, start it and let it run for a bit then get underneath and clean the effected area best you can then crawl underneath (jackstands a must before venturing under..) get someone to turn off the engine and start looking. Sounds like a buggered rack seal, could be a loose pipe union. Difficult to make a diagnosis over the net, especially in your case where the leak only leaks when the engine is stopped, this is a first..

I've got a few mate, only thing is that I'm LHD. People say that they are different to RHD versions but I've never seen any difference and I've dismantled loads, both lhd and rhd hand drive. Lenses ok, I see that they are obviously different but i don't see the point of fitting different reflectors. I've also sold many headlamps and reflectors from here down to the UK, nobody ever complained about the light beam being different. If your interested, send me your email and I'll get you a few photos sent.

Everyone...except me or fuzzer.. Send me your email and I'll snap a few photos of the units I have left. Cheers-Andrew.

I've got a complete unit if your interested. Send me your email and I'll snap a few photos.

Loosen the can caps slowly, do one at a time starting with the center one. The caps are numbered so take note before of all the positions. After a 16+ year sleep I reckon your gonna need to change ALL the tappers regardless.. Tap the caps to remove them using a plastic mallet. I'd change the oil stem seals too as they will be probably rock hard now, also measure the lengths of the valve springs as well.

Ok Cress, I'll sort it mate. Send me your email and I'll snap a few photos and send them. Cheers.

Hmm, confusing..as usual.. Are you def. Sure that it's the Little pipe blocking the barrel? Does Your Lock barrel have the corresponding cut outs For the pipe? Make sure the little micro switch isn't blocking the barrel and that the barrel is in the right way.. And check that the rubber o-ring seal isn't binding or twisted on the barrel. Let me know, I've got both LA+R sides. Cress, it's LA on the barrel, not RA mate..just to confuse you more!!

Cress, Just to be sure, and seeing as i'm LHD compared to the UK, look on the bottom of Your Lock barrel, there will be either an LA or R stamped onto it. Right under the circlip that retains the spring loads locking finger with the number: 535 837 208. The two little metal 'pips' are only present on the left hand (UK driver's side) handle. Let me know which one you want. Cheers.

As soon as you fart near those bloody plastic beam adjusters, they crumble to bits.. Can't find new ones now so before trying to remove the reflector, bear this in mind mate.. You can convert the headlamps to use electric Hella beam adjustment motors that were available as options, you can still manually adjust the beams to a certain extent but if you want them to work off the proper switch on the dash, your gonna have to add the expense of the loom, switch, ball ache of actually feeding the loom through the bulkhead etc.. No more worries about breaking the adjusters though.. And YES, I do have a few motors spare AND the plastic adaptor that's needed to actually attach the motor onto the reflector.

The Lock barrels are in fact handed mate, I've got a ton of them. Send me your address and I'll pop one in the post, along with a couple of spare 1-4 tumblers. Only problem is that I'm in Rome so god knows when you'll get 'em delivered, especially now that it's pushing 40 degrees.. The local post office are a lazy bunch of buggers. Regarding Vr handles being different to other models handles I don't see any difference, except for the non central locking models that have no micro switch inside. I've never worked out what those silly little 'ears' present on some lock barrels are for, some had them whilst others don't. Remember also that the spring loaded lock arrangement are also handed left and right side, don't mix them up.. If you look on the bit that the spring sits under, there's a number, the left solids has a different number than the right. Hope that helps mate. Cheers.

Welcome aboard mate. You need any advice or parts just shout.

Send me your email again Thomas, i'm sure i've got a few good ones left.

First thing to do is remove all 4 plugs, then try again putting the car in 5th and turning it over. Absolute must is to change both supercharger belt and timing belt.. The timing belt may have jumped a tooth or two whilst you were trying to turn over the engine maybe? You mentioned that you did a compression test and got no reading off no.4 cylinder, I take it that the engine must have been span over then, in order to get the zero reading?

I've seen the advertised for 400+ euro mate.. i used to buy complete corrados for E500.. (every one had cracked foglamps..) Have a look on ebay.de but now everyone knows how much they go for so the days of getting a set for £50/80 have long gone now..

Front or rear panels? front ones are no good to you mate as your RHD so the mirror and electric window switchs are on the wrong side.. Is your corrado's paint code LC6V, pearl green? Send me your email and i'll get you photos sent off my phone. Cheers.

Hi mate, What type of heater controls, slider or dial? I take it your corrado has a/c fitted?

In Rome mate. You have a corrado the same colour as mine!! Don't suppose you need any bodywork bits?..

...And when you do find them they cost nearly as much as the entire car.. Very rare in good nick to find now.

I think i may have a few decent ones hidden down in the garage somwhere.. I'll check tomorrow and let you know mate.

PM sent. Welcome!

I mite still have one mate, original Vr6 starter with 19.000km's only.. Send me your email and i'll get you a couple of photos if your interested. Cheers.

KKK-28 turbo? External Audi wastegate? Uprated Competion Clutch? Let me know if you need pictures and send me your email, that way i could send you them off the phone. Almost forgot, i still have a perfect 2.9 ABV engine block, crank etc that only has 19.000km's on the clock mate, be ideal to build up turboed..