VEEDUBBED

Sounds odd, could you post a picture? I'll snap a photo of mine but I can't be added to go thorough the photobuket thing.

I think i may have one of those metal caps remaining off a '92 Vr mill. I'll look later on and let you know, that's if Chris fuzzer can't help out.

Very difficult to find now, in good condition.. I might have one left, I'll check tomorrow morning and let you know. Cheers.

Hmm, I'm in the same boat as you mate.. Mine's been idle for 8+ years now, not as many years as yours but quite a bit regardless. What kind of garage is your Corrado in? Damp or dry? Heated? Is the car sitting on its original tyres? First thing, drain ancient fuel and change fuel filter, remove injectors and get them ultrasonically cleaned. Check fuel pump(s) if they actually run and aren't seized. Change all oils, especially brake fluid, got abs? Prey that the pump or valves aren't stuck or damaged. Change all rubber belts regardless, change the antifreeze and check the water pump hasn't seized, also flush out the Power steering system and pipes.

What parts are you in need of mate? Welcome to the forum!

Quite easy, just take your time. I've done about 3 entire corrados over the Last 10/15 years only ever broke 1 side window and then only 'cos I forgot to tape the glass to the car body to stop it falling down when the Las bit of sealant is cut through.. I get the difficult to find side windows out by first heating up a long, thin flat head screwdriver then piercing the sealant, poke through the special gold coloured wire in through the hole, run it all the way around the perimeter of the glass and secure one end to the seatbelt's locating bolt the pull all the way around using a special T handle designed for this exact purpose. The tools aren't very expensive but you'll probably snap the wire a few times, that's why I buy a roll. The front screen is a pig to get out if the dash I'd in place, you have to be very careful not to cut the top of the dash with the wire, use loads of 1" masking tape to try and avoid damage. The rear quater panel widow's seals are all one piece, no way of removing them so be very careful with the wire here.. Be VERY careful not to get any of the proper black windscreen bonding mastic on the body work or yourself, utter bastid to remove, even when using thinners on a cloth. When replacing the windows don't put on too much sealant and not too new the edge of the blacked out part of the glass, it'll squeeze out when you clamp the windows with the special suckers and look awful. Remember a few things here, once the sealant has dried it'll be a nitemare to remove from off paintwork, hands, cloths ECT. Don't forget to get the gaps right too, especially the quaterlite/front door gaps, fuk that up and the door will still close but bothe rubber seals will rub on each other, set the gaps whilst the sealant is still curing. One other thing, be careful not to scratch the blacked out perimeter area around the screen whilst removing the glass, it's easily done, tho applies only if your reusing previously installed glass though. Can't think of anything else, just work calmly and don't For god's sake rush..

I forgot to ask, What side needed mate? Reason i'm asking is that they are handed and in my experience, as soon as you try and remove them or touch the plastic locating components (made from the same, crap brittle plastic as the headlamp adjusters..)they fall apart. Best to fit the whole adjuster with screw already in place. I sent you a few photos a couple of hours back, let me know if they go theough.

I take it you didn't get the photos i sent down 4 days ago?? Just to be sure, i take it you need the early type foglamp adjusment screw? I'll resend you the photos. Cheers-Andrew.

Send me your email Hass.

No worries mate, Fuzzer's always got bits and much closer too.. I'm actually running low on bits mate, all the cars have gone now!! I'll check for the spring, it mite be up in my cellar. I'll get back to you tommorow.

I think I still may have the loom off that long ago chopped up 19.000km Vr Corrado among a huge bag of wiring looms, I'll check later on and let you know. I should have a clutch pedal spring too and maybe also the steering shaft boot. Give me your email and, if it's still alive, I'll get some photos.

I may have a set left over, i'll check later on and let you know.

If the op doesn't have any bits left I've got a decent grille and heater controls. What model of heater though, slider or dial?

Well mate, it just so happens that VEEDUBBED may well save your day.. I've got one RH late wing left over, you want piccys? Send me your email and I'll get a few.

Love the answers!!! So, theoretically if I kicked some poor bugger up the jacksy, that poor bugger, in theory would move indefinitely??

..I farted in Space and let's say For augments sake, I put Chris fuzzer about 10 meters away, would he have heard it?? ..if I got a gun and fired it, in space still, would the bullet ever stop? ..VEEDUBBED..and his daft questions..

And refitting the little bugger with a few strands of plumber's PTFE tape to avoid loosing it..

No mate, been turbo 16v For years..mine's Got an Escort cosworth throttle body.. Try snapping a photo of Your throttle body, if you can upload them on the forum. Try this, start the Engine then try depressing the idle micro switch and see what happens, the open the primary butterfly a little, hold it at around 2000rpm then depress the full throttle switch, the engine note should change as the mixture is enriched. Let me know.

I completely forgot about the foglamp screw.. Give me 'til this afternoon and I'll check, I have to go down anyway. Send me your email, that way I can send you a photo or 2 off my phone. Cheers.

Change the Hall Sensor inside the distributer mate, they often play up.

Be careful about the throttle valve disks, the small fixing screws are normally 'peened' into position, when you unscrew them they chew up the throttle spindle's screw thread.. Getting the screws back in again can be challenging. Just use a good quality carb cleaner, I used to use products made by Cyclo, nothing came close to their cleaner, cut through everything. Could also try getting the body ultrasonically cleaned too. Personally I don't think the coming and going of the power curve has much to do with the throttle body, I'd be checking other areas first.

Just try adjusting the Switch, there are two small screws that locate the idle Switch on a bracket, on the back of the throttle body. Loosen them both until the switch actually clicks closed or use a multimeter. Lock up both screws and see if the idle has improved.

My old '92 16v 9a engine only ever had the throttle pot. version fitted, along with ke motronic injection. The microswitch version was fitted to the older KR 1800 16v mill. What injection system is actually fitted on your Corrado?

I might have one spare mate, later on i'll check and let you know.

Was that the throttle body i sent you? The correct version is the one with the throttle pot. fitted, might be a duff potentiometer that is at fault. Try checking the resistenze range with a multimeter to see what kind of signal exits the sensor.