VEEDUBBED

That's a strange 1,the con-rod bolts are stretch types so once they were tightened 90.000miles ago i presume that they are the factory original 1's?. Check carefully that the cap/rod aren't oval and out of round seeing as the components had partially seized. I've personally re-used con rod bolts 3 times on various G60 engines with no problems,i'm not saying to do the same but at the end of the day it means giving the stealers 70euro for a new set every time,same as headbolts which on a few occasions i've found loose..

Flusted,later i'll get you a couple of photos of my car's Iveco turbodaily van intercooler set-up,ok it's not a straight forward swap,you'll have to improvise a bit and 1 headlight will not be flush with the grille but they are cheap as there's not much call for them(yet..),unlike the sprinter's version.

That may well be darren but remember that your still stuck with the G60's non crossflow induction system and single OHC configuration and we all know the huge amount of heat created when turboing an engine,let alone turboing AND charging the G60 mill. What's the point of trying to force large amounts of air/fuel cooled by an intercooler if it's going to get heatsoaked by that awful G60 inlet manifold design.

I've just finished doing that exact job,difficulty rating?,i can't really say because i've done it so many times before anyway you'll need a decent 17mm spanner and pref. a 90 degree version. Depending alot on how long the 17mm nuts have been on will determin what struggle awaits you,the 3 nuts nearest the bulkhead can be loosened from above AFTER disconecting the inlet manifold,i find it easier to work afterwards with that out of the way. Same thing goes for those shitty 12mm nuts holding the ex.manifold to the head,just at the mere sight of a 12mm spanner they round off..,WD-40 soaking is a must. If your car's catalized you'll swear getting the cat's nuts/bolts off 'cos there probably welded to each other..,by the way,all the ex.manifold's nuts can be loosened from above and be extra carefull that the gaskets go on the right way round and tha they don't get dislodged when re-fitting the mani. Tack welded nuts?,never seen or heard of that 1 mate,how the christ are you gonna get a welding torch in that confined space AND weld is gonna be difficult.

Done it a few years back when i still had the original 8v head,i had a T3/4 turbo on aswell,had big boost spike issues because i could'nt find a twin inlet intercooler,i was using a y-piece of metal tube. Got fed up with the charger's horrible whirring noise when using a 72mm pulley,that noise dissapears when you fit a 68mm or smaller pulley,so does the dam whistle from the charger return,IMO i rekon it's a waste of time using the G60's O/E 8v head,16 or 20v would be a different proposition..

Thanks bally,much appriciated,too complicated to mess with,i'll leave them as they are.

Hi all,a few questions about my own present to me,from me: How does 1 avoid getting the center caps from being nicked?,taking into account the fact that in Rome anything not welded down will dissapear,especially alloys.. Anyone ever dismanteled a splitrim before?,how are the rims sealed?,do they have a kinda rubber gasket?,sealant,mastik??,theoreticly could i change the tyres over my self after deflating them and unbolting the outer chrome rings?. Thanks for any info.

Flusted mate,i thought sooner or later you'd be asking a few questions... Right then,flywheels are all the same,i've got about 6 rustin away..,seeing as your going to do all that work get hold of a VR6 clutch PP,more clamping force compared to G60's. Fuel pump(s) will be fine,i've managed to retro fit a Bosch CIS pump into my corrado's O/E oumo housing,no problems and easily enough flow even with a turbo,16v/G60 etc. Fuel lines will have to be modded because CIS has banjo connections were's G60s have just push fit connections,i could photo my engine bay and show you. Gearbox ratios?,i personally wouldn't use the valver's 'box,horribly short ratios,you'll be spinnin into 3rd,when i first turboed my golf 2 valver i had the original 'box fitted..,the golf accelerated like a 600 sports bike but only to 220km/h. Let me know if you have any problems.

I've still got an ABV '92 VR mill in bits that was sitting on a crate for 8+years,when i stripped the engine it was perfect inside just a lot of surface corrosion on the alloy bits and a rather rusty outside engine block,this engine has only done 29000km or 16000miles so the internals are spotless. Same thing happened when i bought a 33000mile 2.0 16 valve corrado that had been in a lockup for 9 years,seats were mouldy and engine bay was furred up and full of cobwebs,both fuel pumps siezed etc but the inside of the engine was totally spotless,i added a G-charger last year and have been driving the car since with zero probs.

I've got about 3 G60 engine blocks spare with loads of pistons,cranks,cams,heads..,only problem is that i'm based a little further away than you.

Good luck with all that,plastic rocker cover???

All the same mate,no need to re-new the nuts,just bolts,or you could do like me and re-use the old 1's. I reused the con-rod bolts 3 times on different engines,i also re-used head bolts 3 times and never had any bother,even when i built my 2.0 g-charged valver engine i used 2 ABF gaskets+used head bolts,no water loss,steam etc. If you want to spend some wonga,spend it on ARP or Raceware bolts,the're also reusable.

No news this end either,the big question remains though,how much for a full set??..

Sent email of image to blue_joe,hope it goes through...,when the dozy cow who runs the Italian site finally gives me more info i'll post up

Try this,http://www.apsik.aikmedia.com/files/2/200 60 523/images/26.05 028jpg and let me know if it works.

Yeah,i know because i've checked already on the IN-PRO web site,i'm trying to upload a photo of the fog/indicators that the Italian forum admin. shot somewere in a spare parts shop in Germany,i've asked for more info but over here the forum's not as good/quick as the UK's version.

I just found them on the Italian corrado website,all i can say is that they look the bollokz,just imagine blue_joe how they wuld look on your corrado fitted with angel eyes...

Right,who's fitted the new IN-PRO front foglights and indicators?,how much do they cost and were can 1 buy a set?,thanks.

Faulty/loose water pump impeller?,partially blocked radiator,block cracked?,expansion bottle return hose blocked?radiator matrix blocked with filth?,head not torqued down properly?. In order to get rid of air locks just drill two small holes around the outer part of the thermostat,always worked in my Vw's.

Jam3383,PM sent.

If not I'VE got a spare charger for you,just removed it from my 2.0 g60 valver engine,if you don't find 1 let me know and i'll send you photos.

UPS one?,what's that?

Hi all,simple question,what kind of gearbox could see a corrado does over 200 miles an hour? or 308km/h if you preferwith the nessesary engine mods of coarse..,ASD,CCM,golf 3 gti-16v 'box?,ideas please.

Have you checked the fuel pressure when first starting the engine?,i rigged up a mech.fuel pressure gauge inside my corrado because every corrado i've owned all had the same defect that you described i.e, low pump pressure on initial start up,1st turn of key the gauge's needle barely moved,2nd turn and the pressure went up to~1.5Bar but on the third it went up to the required 3 bar and stayed there. I then modiyfied the O/E pump housing and installed a bigger/higher press. bosch golf 2 pump and all problems regarding fuel press. vanished...

Virtually impossible to fit bolt,2 washers and pipe in such a confined space,try tightening the damm bolt up aswell...(without snapping the head of)