Supercharged

Cool - hopefully the AA bloke with bleed it and you should see from the colour if it's old. As the slave has been done it's more likely the master - you will really only see the fluid level drop if it's obviously leaking - ie fluid ontop of the gearbox or inside the car from the master.

Dave, it could be either now with the age of these cars... when was the fluid last changed? It used to be more likely the be the slave but say that's been changed before then it may be more likely to be the master. It's look for fluid on top of the gearbox but you only get this usually when it's really bad - also look at the slave, original ones were pained black, new ones are unpainted alloy. I wouldn't drive it - do you have AA cover?? - If so get them out and let them diagnose, they may even fix it if they can source the part easily.

LOL - please tell me that's not really your wheel!

Thats pretty normal although they can be very economic in standard form 30-40mpg is achievable! You might find a good service / setup raises the average above 30mpg but remember it's traffic that kills the G60s MPG as the charger is always being driven by the engine.

Inception last night - 10/10 for me... I've not come out of the cinema feeling like I'd seen something that good / unique since the first Matrix.

Jesus - yeah that's pretty bad but hopefullt the rust is mostly on the suspension components and the underseal on the chassis is doing it's job?? Clearly a complete lack of servicing though - I've never seen a fuel filter in that condition before, ever!

Could also be the immobiliser but coil is likely - similar issues on MK3 Golfs http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info. ... ucts_id=31

Ah nice one!

When you say high revs and 'flat out' are you sure it's not the MAP sensor dragging the timing back?

Not a VAG part Thom... Maybe try Burton power?

LOL - also bumping this for updates... I have a similar issue and here's what I found - be interested to know what you've done Kev?? Ok, dead battery this morning after the car has been sat for 2 weeks, I have left it longer than this before and it's been fine and it has a brand new Bosch 77Ah on it. Battery was reading around 3v so suspected a bulb like the boot light first, checked all lights then measured Current drawer with a clamp meter - 0.3A (should be in the region of 0.05 or at least less than 0.1) Started pulling fuses then relays in order, no change then disconnected alternator and again no change. I then remembered the separate fuse for the electric windows pulling this dropped me to 0.2A Disconnected the alarm, no change but then I did the power to the headlight loom - low and behold it dropped to almost zero. So it appears I have a faulty relay in the loom and one clicks when re-connected - surprised it's not leaving a light on as I have had this before... What I want to know is the remaining 0.1A I am getting when I have the fuse in for the electric windows can't be right can it?? Although it will take approx 1 Month to fully drain it seems to high. Kev - you are getting similar readings, wonder if you have the same problems - headlight loom and a faulty (old / original) E/W control module?? Dom - fuse 21 is the MFA in the clocks, Interior and boot lights, make up mirror, cigarette lighter and central locking. Spoiler should be on 16 on UK cars.

Yeah not sure about lengths and I'm not sure what's listed on ETKA is quite right either... best to measure what you take off with string. Yeah is the proper green coated stuff (made by Cohline)

The rolls VW sell are the proper steel but you need a really good tool to flare it like the Sykes Pickavent 270 and a decent pipe bender like the SP 002560000 The pre-made lengths with ends are still available for the MK2 and some of the lengths are the same as the C.

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcy ... ?r=Froogle

That's loverly - actually saw a similar one (JAP engine) at Helmingham Hall on Sunday - such an iconic design with the engine mounted right at the front!

Ah - you could just tap into the switch wiring from the door handle and run something into the car... I've had a problem where the car locks itself when driving because of a corroded / shorting door handle wire I suppose this could be made automatic using a relay and an ignition live... Might be worth having a word with an auto-electrician about this.

Not as standard but an aftermarket alarm can do this... The Toad one I have can activate the central locking when the ignition is turned.

Yeah, they are 1mm bigger - The bits come in the Kit so I'd contact Koni or a supplier. You will also need to drill out the top plates too although I'd buy new ones and also wax them.

Yeah - well it's usually just the spot welds at the front that break, the rest of it is fairly solid hence the awful racket it makes.

Yup - and if it is that, don't re-weld it - just fit a mahoosive jubilee clip round it!

Before you start to worry about the engine have a good look at the exhaust and cat head sheilds - on a ramp if you can Broken ones tend to make an awful racket as exactly this rpm and the sound resonates so it sounds like the engine itself.

Yeah I can't see much wrong with that at all - actually looks really clean for a G60 head as several I have seen have gone a very tarnished orange colour which people seem to think is to do with high temps and lack of oil changes - yours looks mint! Are you really scrapping it??? If so I hope the shell is rotten otherwise it would be a great shame to scrap it, especially a G60 as they are getting really rare nowadays.

I agree with Dukest above although it's hard to tell how bad the rust is without seeing it but if it's mostly on the metal work, that's expected on an 'original' 15-20 year old car - you just need to find a good local sandblasters. The exhaust issue is annoying and I know what it's like when you have the car in bits and things don't fit but to be honest it's not the cars fault - must be the wrong de-cat pipe. Suspension - I'd just go for a complete overhaul / replacement - do everything and you won't have to revisit. Brakes / engine - just sounds like a complete lack of servicing, if it makes you feel any better me and a mate did discs and pads on a MK4 the other day that took twice as long as usual becuase some monkey had been at it last time - both disc retaining screws snapped, red grease used instead of copper(!!) and found other stuff like a broken undertray with several missing screws. Stick with it dude, get some of the major stuff out the way and you'll be a lot happier about it! If you have ramp access you can save so much cash and Corrado's honestly do drive fantastically on decent suspension - I'm saying this as you are a former Golf / Scirocco owner and the Corrado is simply in a different league.

I don't think they have a leg to stand on - especially a company like the AA!

Yep - they should come with the kit...