Supercharged

Yep, as far as I know you should put on the colour of the old one... New ones should come with 4 tips but if you've not got these I would suggest re-using the one off the old one.

All 3 hoses are about £50 from VW - I really wouldn't use anything else on a G60 as they need to fit and last well for safety!

Nice - just watch the engine mounts are good and the engine is not leaking oil so the foam lasts.

Is this on a G60?? It's not uncommon for the face to get damaged if the pulley has come loose. It can be re-faced in situ and there is a proper VAG tool for this. Steve Cresswell has this (C&R) - suggest you get in contact and maybe get the car shipped up to him.

MX5?

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=93453

Swap the ECU relay out mate - 30 or 32...

They do mate - all BIN parts.

As above but the key thing is that the engine must be supported as those M10 bolts can snap without the other 4 in place!

Gear box holds 1.9 Ltrs Brake Fluid - 2 Litres for a full flush on an ABS car with the Clucth too...

£23 is alot but mine only ran out a few months ago and I must have had it for over 10 years. If you don't get your car serviced by VW every year then you really must buy this as ist's part of the shcedule!

LOL - Yeah they always look really cool and different - would work well I reckon if the Corrado had some airflow to it.

Sills are available from VW... lots or work to do the job properly though!

No sorry - still not fitted them as my geometry is perfect at the moment... TBH - if they are fouling the chassis then the car must be way too low - why ruin one of the best FWD handling cars of the 90's by slamming it too the ground!

Yes - it was orignally posted on the CGTI mailing list by your great grandfather Nevin back in 1932 If I recall correctly?

There is a good guide here - written by some bloke called Nevin Haywire... http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=195423

VWspares is AVS - Volkspares is a completly different company - http://www.volkspares.co.uk/ As above they are a good supplier of pattern stuff but I wouldn't use any of it for suspension type stuff - it simply doesn't last. I've had febi top mounts barely last a year, ball joints, wheel bearings, cv boots, bushes all wear out between 1-2 years when you only get a 1 year warranty. Genuine stuff isn't that much more as most of it crosses over to a MK2/3 Golf or Passat and comes with a 2 year warranty. Cosidering the hassle of changing stuff constantly and getting the allignment done I would just change everything and keep it original VW - should be good for another 10 years then!

http://www.3mselect.co.uk/c-526-car-car ... plies.aspx Free delivery and use the code SAVERCODE for 10% off. Works out at less than £1.50 a 25mm roll where most 'detailing' shops charge nearly twice that!

Welcome to the forum - it's basically just below the ignition lock / switch. You have to remove the undertray to get to it by pulling down two plastic clips. All described in the instruction manual if you have it.

haha - yeah at the top of the fuse box there is a row of green and a row of grey connectors... Green is ignition switched 12v, Grey is for illumination I think.

All the thread pitches are on ETKA. Easiest way to check though is to take a bolt out and lay it against the new one and see if the threads 'mesh' Most M6 and M8 bolts on the Corrado are all 'standard' pitch so I just bought a massive selection of these. Also try and get a load of M6 flange nuts as they look cool and also have a self locking surface. Also buy a load of spring washers and locking washers and pay attention to what ETKA says and what comes off the car as stainless stuff has a tendency to work loose compared to mild steel - different torque loadings / expansion coefficients etc Gearbox / shifter type stuff is M7 and harder to get hold of. The M10 and M12 bolts VW use are often fine threaded but these are mainly for brakes and suspension so you can't really use stainless becuase of strength.

Yeah - I know someone who s stuggling to flare the OE steel stuff with an £80 Franklin tool as the pipe keeps slipping... I assume you were using a Sykes Flaremaster???

Nice work with the stainless pipe - how easy is it to flare?? I fancy doing the brake lines that run under the car in stainless...

Never heard of a driveshaft actually snapping on a (standard powered) VW... I think you need to get it to somewhere like Stealth so they can sort out what's going on - I'm wondering if it's got the wrong driveshaft or trackrod fitted that is making it impossible to setup right.

Slam panel bolts were actually black I think - only the wing ones were painted over.