Supercharged

Yeah - love the slogan! Question - what did you use on those wheels Drew? I need to give all mine a good clean but I have a load of tar on them which won't seem to budge?

You need to find out what the original offset is on them and then get adapters to make them as close to ET33 as possible. IE if they are ET52, a 20mm adapter will bring them down to ET32. Tyres - min size on a 7" is 195 and will look ever so slightly stretched, and then 215 on the 8" I reckon

Ah nice one - did you get those discs and pads fitted?

I was actually surprised how easily mine came out and I just used a 22mm open ended spanner too! Just make sure it all gets cliped back in place ok - there is a cable tie or two I think needed. You also want to clean up the earth point at the plug and fit a new nut. Other thing to consider is maybe a good time to fit a cat bypass?

Just buy from VW / Audi - about a tenner each.

Mario - do they work ok in the daytime?? I tried some LED bulbs a few years ago (not like that though) and they weren't good but thoese look the business!

Cheap ones will only last months but genuine SKF's should last around 100k miles! Are you working grease into the bearings before they are installed - this is critical and I was told by a VW tech to do this or they won't last. I was also told to get them hand tight then tighten 1/4 of a turn with a wrench then back off and go back to hand tight so you can just move the washer - this takes out any slack first but won't damage the bearings. I've done this a few times now and never had to adjust the bearings although they should be checked after 500 miles. If you are sure you are fitting them correctly then it's maybe damaged stub axles from previous bearing failure...

Green bulb - Humbrol do a transparent green paint for this - model or toy shop

I'd say more - £3-3.5 if it really is Mint. Recaro cloth, low miles and low owners are rare these days and full VAGsh too!! It's true Corrado's don't go for much now but there are some real dogs out there - good once are worth more than they were a couple of years ago IMO.

If it's an 8V then the sensor will be on the front of the head in a plastic housing.

If it's the injector seat seals then VW only I reckon... injector O rings can be had from a Bosch place - usually about £1 each.

Yep it's... 0845 G00GLE.C0M :wink:

From the Telegraph - quite well written I thought...

ABS has nothing to do with the clutch! There are just early and late ones - try Eurocarparts as they are ATE dealers.

They're not broken, just missing - buy new ones from VW

Big question really... at over 100k it could do with all kinds of stuff doing depending on whats been done before and how it's been treated... I would put it in for an MOT to check all the lights / tyres / boots / brakes / play in bushes and suspension side of things and do the engine service yourself as above. I would change all the filters and fluids (inc coolant, gear oil and PAS fluid) and sparkplugs, you will need the tool for the plug leads so make sure you have it or buy the metal version and also I would change the leads if they are original or look old. Obviously other engine stuff will be checking for oil leaks, any worn pipes etc and also check the V belt for wear - to change this you will need an M8 by 80mm bolt to de-tension Brake fluid is well overdue but as it's ABS you will need to pressure bleed using an eezibleed kit or similar. As Jim says I would buy all the bits from VW including the oil and get it running well as standard first before trying different oils etc. You need to get it checked for fault codes on a Diagnostic machine or use VAGCOM to see if there is anything logged and also check for any cracks in the underseal and lube all the locks / hinges and sunroof as per the service schedule (again, get this stuff from VW as it seems to be far supperior to anything else) Hope that helps and gives an idea of where to begin!

Zak - yeah I'd be interested in some softer springs too but not sure they will do them for the V1's as they are non adjustable... They do handle well but the ride is just a bit too hard for day to day use (on crap roads) compared to standard. Coilovers are always going to be a compromise though.

Definetly all made in the same plant but as Kev says above this means nothing... I have driven serveral cars using Weitecs and the rideis no where near as good as the Variants. If you want cheap / value for money then the Weitecs are good but I think it's worth the extra for the Stainless KW's and you get better ride quality and handling too. I wouldn't bother at all with AP's on a Corrado!

As some of you will know from the weekend, Bill Brockbank's (Badger5s) Ibiza had a bit of a failure in the headgasket department when going round the track at Coombe... Check these out though - genuine original VW rad and exp bottle and no hoses blew off under cylinder pressure - amazing really although not sure if this is meant to happen or not? Should it pop a core plug or hose or is it meant to stay fluid tight?

Yep - replace it... the 3 bits are about £40 from VW. I've done the mech, TT arms, new motor and new washer jets / pump / tubing and it's like a brand new car!

Hmm - I thought all the KW Variants were INOX - ie Stainless... The cheaper Weitecs are just plated.

Just for you...

LOL - Yeah it should activate full closure or open with the key... do the windows open too? What happens when you turn the key the other way?

That's retail - did you ask for club discount? should be £33.50 + vat each. Brembo - they are ok but don't last like the VAG ones do or come with that coating on them. Try a TPS centre if you have one near

Hello there and welcome to the forum! When you say misfire what does it actually do? I assume they have ruled out HT leads / injector wiring etc and think it's a sensor issue as the fault occurs when hot? When they say a lead missing from the ECU.. do they mean the vacuum connection from the back of the throttle body? If this is the case and it's missing then I'm surprised it runs at all, this is absolutely critical and needs to be 100cm long exactly - worth replacing this anyway tbh to rule it out. Assume is was the Blue Coolant temp sensor they have replaced? If so, wait until the fault occurs and then plug the old sensor back into the wiring (so the engine switches back to a cold map), if it then returns to normal then you almost certainly have an issue with the Lambda / O2 sensor or the CO Potentiometer (these become the key sensors on the warm fuel map) Have you tried running it with the lambda probe unplugged?