RW1

2 owners! Originally owned by a CCGB member back in the mid/late 1990's. Looks in good shape. One of the last to be registered and near the end of the batch build (492nd built, 3rd last Mystic Blue), built 2nd week in May 1995. .

The red to two black connectors is part of a loom for use with the LHD Factory fit alarm system. Just happens to use the Cruise loom to pass through the firewall bulkhead. Specific to the Passat loom, not the Corrado equivalent Cruise loom. I don't remember the UK Corrado having a Cruise Control fitted at the factory. The parts are for LHD only. That means you need to be aware of the Teves02 brake system coupling through the firewall. Not sure they are the same as the UK Teves04. And as you've discovered, the accelerator is LHD. The RHD is the way it is to avoid a foul fit with the fuse box which doesn't exist on the left side in LHD build. Wiring diagram is OK. The only RHD Corrado UK I know that was fitted by an owner was a aftermarket one from Ultimate Design in Kettering (http://www.ultimatedesign.co.uk/Cruise1.html#CRUISE). It still used the Corrado Cruise Control Stalk for its switching. Featured in the Sprinter August 1999. No real technical how to. .

Wiki ECU setup http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html 16pin diagnostics, just lift the gear shifter surround. Spark plugs, I always use the original NGK BKR5EKU (VW Part no.: 101 000 035AB) These are not the later platinium for the post 1995 Golf VR6 & 24valvers, the longlife "035AH". http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-VW-Passat-B3-35I-Saloon-Variant1-NGK-Yellow-Box-Spark-Plugs-Kit-Service-/330810405167?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Type%3A2.8+VR6&hash=item4d05d6312f Yes understand your description. Had similar about a couple of months ago. Caused by the fuel pump relay being pulled for the last winter storage. When refitted, didn't clear the fault code. This caused a sympathy fault code with the MAF which put the ECU into a secondary mode. Cleared the fault codes and did a Basic Settings 5 minutes duration while out driving. Cleaned the MAF connector on return home. Been alright since, no codes, clean exhaust tail pipe you can wipe with no soot and running very smoothly. I have a Vibratechnics front mount. Normal rear. Vibration and the engine is rock steady in the bay with no lumpiness to the idle, no missed beats. Gave up with my K&N flat panel filter years ago as it caused rough running, much more than just a mild stuttering. Have used standard VW paper filters since in the housing, changing every 10,000 miles. .

Take each lead and check for electrical continuity. Each lead on a digital volt meter will show “circuit” with a line resistance of 5 kohm (4.5 – 5.5Kohm in practice). It should not make much difference having different leads if the resistance values are in the range above. Any open circuit of higher resistance substitute. After that, first make sure the Engine ECU is not carrying any fault codes which may have reverted ECU to a secondary mode. The other thing, have you performed "Basic Settings" on the ECU as per the wiki ECU reset 2nd part using VCDS. The first part of driving doesn't need to be done for this exercise. Finally. I get roughness occassionally like you describe. Put it done to the fuel. These days the plugs are not the same clean whiteness on the insulator due the higher octane enhancers. (Have the same on the other two cars as well). With the white insulator being fouled, the spark is being interrupted due to the way it travels from the centre electrode onto the insulator then along to hop off onto the earth electrode on its inside face. Failing that, clean the MAF connection with switch cleaner. Then perform Basic Settings again. .

I seem to remember at that time the main focus for the committee was arresting the almost total loss of Club funds. It certainly was occupying 3 (committee) of us including myself for much of our spare time. The archive file is very much that activity around the above extract time point. The Club website was not the number one priority but I do not remember a single committee member having a bad word for Andi. Exactly the opposite was being said. Carry on ........ nice ephemeral fairy story by some here, what the www is all about. On its 3rd time round on here isn’t it for this??? I find it sad after 9 years this forum has not learned to stand on its own two feet yet. Popcorn anyone? .

Had those sort of issue to resolve for a while with a lock-up at Leek in Staffordshire. Much the same of brakes/clutch - pumped the same. Engine turning did but took the battery home and charged it. Return the next time with a fully charged battery to do the engine turning as above. Use this in the cabin instead of conditioning the whole garage with a dehumidifier. In either case I do not leave the windows open and have never had any problems internally with the leather or metal fittings such as the lower seat belt anchor rails. [ATTACH=CONFIG]70170[/ATTACH] Disc brakes, don't laugh! Wheels off and sprayed with hair laquer. Make sure its dried, no drips on the bottom of the discs before putting the wheels back on. When you drive off after storage, the brake pads just wipe off the hardened lacquer and the brakes are just like they were in use. Has to be "Firm Hold" because the lacquer content is proportionally higher, hence its stiffening effect when used on hair. [ATTACH=CONFIG]70169[/ATTACH] Security is more of an issue so used these when stored away from the house...... Bulldog wheel clamp [ATTACH=CONFIG]70167[/ATTACH] http://www.bulldogsecure.com/product/107/bulldog-230f-titan-wheel-clamp Bullock Pedal Lock clamp [ATTACH=CONFIG]70168[/ATTACH] http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/bullock.htm And finally..... take the steering off and stored at home. The pedal lock and the sock/bar for the steering wheel are always in the boot in case I have to leave the Corrado anywhere unattended. And the other thing I forgot. I raise the wiper arms/wiper off the screen using stiff sponge or pipe insulation foam to stop the blades being deformed. The alternative is to take the blade carrier off the arm - but do remember to refit otherwise you could have a nasty scratch on the windscreen! [ATTACH=CONFIG]70166[/ATTACH] And finally use a couple of lightweight decorators dust covers from B&Q weighted down by newspaper piles. Scirocco went this way last weekend after one last 2 hours drive. [ATTACH=CONFIG]70165[/ATTACH] Corrado is condemmed to going this way a month early as Friday on the way home with it, they had put salt down on the roads....... .

Still the 2.8ltr version as the "M" is listed for them as well. Unless the car is a Golf / Passat Synchro 2.9ltr ABV engine. .

021 133 061L for the later coil pack version engine. That number maybe 021 133 061M which is a 1996 Golf 2.8ltr. .

That says it all then, its going nowhere. Well I wonder whose's purple Vr6 it was ... E333 *** .

Give it a week for him to come back and then ring the DVLA and ask their advice, unless their website has a Q&A section with it listed. I'll add, given the state of the Corrado, not to get tooooo worried. At least its not mobile like my friends Austin 1300 was. .

Technically, you haven't sold it and you are still the owner. Or maybe not if you bought it without a receipt previously. Passed on my old Mk2 Scirocco after 16 years recently. Gave it away but still got the friend's son to sign a bill of sale and pay £1 for it. Arso, it wasn't the purple VR6 I saw in Congleton yesterday afternoon on the back of a low loader going to Stoke while out in my C.. C.

Stops the engine starting. If you start it running, its initially puts water in the exhaust! Idling won't get rid of this. It pools in the silencer boxes and rusts through. Thats why I wrote put away hot and dry originally. .

The important bit is that DID get a receipt for selling it and its signed by both you and the buyer with date of sale. The V5 can be sorted. Thats not proof of ownership, just who is the keeper. Can't you contact the buyer to check things out??? The sale receipt proves you can't be driving it or committing offenses. My friend had a bad do 30 years ago. Sold his car, it ran over and killed a girl at at funfair the following day. The police came to him but once the sale receipt was produced, they left to find the new owner. .

Spin the engine to keep the oil pump and the hydraulic tappets primed. Not essential but did once with another car have no oil pressure cause the oil pump was worn a little. While I remember. Don't change the brake fluid just before storing. It tends to perish standard VW rubber brake hoses. Had that more than once in 15 years until I realised. Better to change the brake fluid a couple of months ahead of storage. The pedal pumping above is really about keeping the rubber hoses and seals flexing so that the rubber material is stretched. If left for 6 monhts, the fluid seems to "attack" the rubber or blistering occurs. Happens also on my Mk2 Scirocco. .

Wouldn't bother with the tyres. Had tyre spring it internals at just +5psi. Never had a problem with this thing as long as they are at correct inflation. Now: Hope you put the Corrado away with the engine and exhaust hot and dry. And ran the fuel tank down to the red area. Handbrake off and in gear, chock a wheel with bricks as well, just in case. I use two large blocks if wood. Pull the fuel pump relay. Put to one side until storage ends. Hook up a battery charger - intelligent type or disconnect the battery. Start garage de-humidifier for winter. Once a Month: Disconnect the battery charger or reconnect the battery. Pump the brakes fairly hard 5 times. Operate clutch 5 times. In neutral with Clutch engaged. Spin the engine on the starter for 20 second periods with 2 minute pauses until the oil light goes out. Then 4 or 5 further spins of 20 seconds/2 minutes off. (Fuel pump relay is not used). Reconnect charger or put battery on a normal charger for a few hours until charged. Put gearbox back into gear. Record which day you did it on a log card. Pin the card up somewhere to remind you to do it the next month. End of Storage: Stop dehumidifier. Hope fully you collected a lot of clean water for the windscreen washer bottle and any coolant change you may do. NB. If weather and garage is 2'C or below. Knock of dehumidifier to save electric as it doesn't work by the way it uses a cooled plate to remove moisture. The chilled plate won't work below 2'C and below. Cold air tends to be dry anyway. Re-fit fuel pump relay and clear the fault code. Fuel Pump fault code can trigger sympathy faults like the MAF codes and that puts the ECU into fail MAF mode. Drive and immediately fill up to with fresh fuel to purge the fuel system of stale fuel. If the battery was disconnected during storage, you need to set up the ECU. ----------- .

Passat part 357 612 151 for none VR6 chassis £56, genuine ATE part. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-GOLF-MK2-GTI-BRAKE-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-C46-/200602586830?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb4d88ece

You need to tangle with them, then you will understand. Even using the VW symbol as on this forum's banner is off side with them unless you have expressed permission. Been there and got the badge! Yes, it is seemingly silly but thats the way they have been for a long time. Nothing new. Club Scirocco came unstuck early on and we were being honest with them. Still have the letter from VW in response to something we asked, ie. use of the VW symbol in the club badge...... big no-no as far as they were concerned as are the use of their font/car model badges. One circumstance which is close to a lot on here is Ross-Tech diagnostics programme. Its why VAG-COM has had to be renamed VCDS. Volkswagen A.G. (Germany) do not like there interlectual property rights being abused. Why do you think some websites disappear? :) They are a company that enforces their rights. Much the same as music industry and so on. .

Yes you can SORN early/anytime, but the original post specifically asked about "expiring end of October". In the Road Tax reminder its more like renewing the road tax except you have the three options to continue from the expiry date of the current road tax period, 12 months tax, 6 months tax or SORN for 12 months. (My comments originally assumed that a Road Tax reminder letter had been received. And the "end of October" was linked to the received DVLA reminder letter.) If you run out on insurance before the tax does, surely its off the road on private property and SORN'd on the same day. Thats how I interpret below. Otherwise you having to cover the car with an insurance policy for the remaining current Road Tax period...... because its still road tax'd. To quote the DVLA...... SORN'ing part way through the tax period is a different matter. ie. on the V890 you declare a SORN date yourself and quoting the v890 "That the vehicle will not be used or parked on a public road from the date given above". "Above" being the date that you write at the top of the form in the "Date of SORN" box. Then if I remember rightly, they will only refund in whole round months after that date. .

The SORN starts when the paid road tax period runs out. On the acknowledgement it states it will start as the paid road tax expires. For instance I have just SORN'd one of my cars on the 12th October for a paid tax disc expiring 31st October. The SORN confirmation states the start of the 12 months SORN period is 1st November. Insurance. Unless you intend to do something differently like store the Corrado away from your residence in a lock-up, then there should be no need to tell them as you circumstances have not changed. However if stored in the open on the driveway long term without being driven, I'd tend to have a conversation with the insurance just to sure as a stationary car 24 hours a day is more of a risk to them of a claim. If you are storing it away form the normal declared point ie. garaged at house or on driveway, then moving to a lock-up changes the risk and new post code can be more or less at risk. So under this situation, yes it is advisable to inform the insurance company as the move is not temporary like when driving around. .

When you say '94 8v. Which side of chassis no. 50SK000718/50SK000719 does your number lie? .

WTF! Must be good stuff you are on for a Friday night Mr. H. !!! Want to share. As with the saleman from VW Guilders of Chesterfield at VW NorthWest in August enquired about being 1st in the queue, having after spotting the C in a story book pictures of my Silver Mk2 Scirocco. My answer "Speak to my estate executors when the time comes :D". lol . Oh and ps. It won't be in the short term, medium term or long term either before you lot start scratching your chins .

A few options ........ 1) Lift the black cover on the boot floor and tap into the fuel pump 12 volts supply on the Red with yellow stripe wire. Fuel Pump relay controls supply. 2) Behind the left side rear passenger side card there are the heated seat relays. Tap into the Black wire with Yellow stripe. Fuse 14, 10 amps controls. 3) Behind the right side rear passenger side card there is the window lift controller, try the black wire to it. Fuse 14, 10 amp controls. .

O ring seals: - Crack pipe seals 2 off - N10139201 - Thermostat position seal itself 1 off - N90136802 - Thermostat housing to engine block 1 off - 021 121 119A - Thermostat housing to crack pipe adaptor onto thermostat housing 1 off - N10139201 And to make coolant hose/standard VW hose clip removal a 5 minute job, this is money well worth spending http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-combination-pliers-0-69301?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase ------------------------------ Neuspeed are either 70'C or 77'C. 70'C will as said previously, keep the engine in the cold map. That should be used with modified ECU mapping to suit and a lower temperature rated fan switch that goes in the radiator end near the battery. 77'C will just make it run a tad cooler than the figures I posted earlier. .

Thought you only did that with Model T Fords....... Golf VR6 or Corrado VR6 is the same 80'C thermostat 075 121 113D As a guide, with 20% G11/80% water mix, a fully warmed engine with a good 80'C thermostat:- - coasting downhill drops to 82'C coolant and oil temp 92'C/94'C. - level driving at 40 - 60mph sits at about 89'C/90'C coolant and oil temp 96'C/98'C. - uphill driving at 40 - 60mph sits at about 91'C coolant and oil temp 98'C/100'C - motorway at 70mph/75mph sits at 90'C/91'C coolant and oil temp 100'C/102'C for outside air temps in the region of 20'C. So at 90'C oil, that if you project the line heads towards 70'C coolant. I'dd believe the dash readings. [used to be a lot higher with wierd fan switch on temps at 112'C last year. Oil temp regularly ran at 110'C/112'C with coolant at 100'C. Cause was a sluggish thermostat and not opening enough.] Given your perished heater pipe and the awkwardness of changing the thermostat, I would also consider replacing : - the thermostat housing with its seal, be prepared for some engine block corrosion where sits, use Hylomar Universal Blue to reseat, particularly the lower horizontal lip area of the housing. - possibly replace the cross "crack" pipe and rubber O seals. - replace the three temp sender seals in the thermostat housing. .

Thermostat has gone to fail condition, ie in the open condition. The oil temp at 90'C indicates its running cool confirming the temp gauge reading of 70'C ish. You will still get hot air out of the heating but maybe not quite as hot as usual. The engine probably is taking longer to warm up as the coolant is initially circulating the full system rahter than the engine block only. VCDS won't really tell you much with this mechanical condition. . .