RW1

50zSK003336 not a Storm model my friend. Built as left hand drive. And black colour definitely confirms. They have made an error. On either side of that chassis number 50zSK003335 was a Mystic Blue Storm Auto, 50zSK003337 was a Moonlight Blue/black cloth 8v 'ADY', right hand drive but 50zSK003336 was definitely not a UK Storm model. .

Upto Corrado Chassis 50KR000898 (built 1st week in September 1993), the “non” plus running gear hub nut is torque to 265NM (195 lb ft). The nut is self locking. No other special instructions, just a straight tightening. ---------------------------------------- How ever.................. From Corrado Chassis 50KR000898, the Plus Running Gear Hub Nut is self locking. Tighting as follows: (Doesn’t matter what engine size, the suspension hub is governed by a chassis break). - Fit the Hub Nut and tighten as possible by hand. No locking fluid/paste is necessary. - Wheel is not to be on the ground with car’s weight until fully tightened as below, otherwise hub bearing damage can occur. - With a second person in the driver’s position, press/apply the foot brake hard and hold each time a tightening of the Hub Nut has to occur below. - Tighten the Hub Nut to 200Nm (148 lb ft). Then loosen by one turn. - Pre-tighten to 50Nm (37 lb ft). - Now take one of the 12 peak points of the Hub Nut circumference and mark it (a). - Now move to one high point further round in the tightening direction of the Hub Nut’s 12 peak points and mark the bearing shell/hub lip (b). (This is the equivalent of 30° angle of turn on the Hub in the tightening direction of rotation.) - Turn and tighten the Hub Nut with socket tool so that the Nut mark (a) to align with the Hub lip (b). - That’s the tightening finished for the Plus Running Gear Hub. ---------------------------------------------------------- All VW supplied Hub replacements from Parts Dept.'s from late 1994 onwards have been supplied as Plus Running Gear standard for all Corrados 1988 - 1995 build. .

Some Sony's can switch between orange and green. Pressing two buttons together on the front facia switches over. On my two sets it is press the "SEL" (select) button and hold while then pressing the preset "1" button. Colour then just toggles on each press of "1". .

WD40 on the immobilser coil reader connection under the dash by the spoiler switch should solve it. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?20016-VR-Cutting-out&highlight=wd40+immobilser .

Have you tried flooring the accelerator while turning the starter? If it starts, then won't idle, the ISV has stuck closed. Sometimes a sharp tap with the handle of a largish screwdriver may free it. It it does run, then VCDS Output Checks and exercise the ISV option so it ticks for about 30 seconds to get the stiffness out of it. .

Noises will be back on Monday (+48 hour chart shows higher speeds) up in NE and Scotland. http://carnkieweather.co.uk/?page=chart-jetstream .

Radio might be a good start. On the 16 pin diagnostics car socket, the wire colours are: Pin 1 - Black/Blue Pin 4 - Brown Pin 5 - Brown Pin 6 - Orange/Black Pin 7 - Grey/White Pin 14 - Orange/Brown Pin 16 - Red/White Check wires are in the right pin locations in the dianostics socket. Should be. 12 volts is on pin 16 from fuse 12 (7.5 amps). Check 12 volts present relative to pin 4 and 5 and also car bodywork earth. The radio problem wire is diagnostics pin 7 Grey/White stripe going to pin three on the radio plug connections, still the same wire colour at the radio end. Pull or snip/tape up at the radio end. .

Two thoughts....... Have a look round the strut adjustment points. They may have damaged the ABS cable or nudged a cable connection on one wheel area. Ross Tech. It may be genuine but which are you using. Corrado test is not a full test as one of the datalines is not fitted. Corrado is simple. Mk4 I'd expect you to have a Hex + Can cable for it to work, olthough some controllers are not CANbus on the Mk4 so you should be able to interrogate some controllers, not others. Failing that, could see if I can get into the car's diagnostics. .

Upper atmosphere Jetstream effects. Noises are like blowing over an empty milk bottle or rushing noises. The bangs are from static lightening generated by wind shear at the lower / upper atmosphere boundary. Rare in the UK cos the jetstream sits farther north in summer and farther south in winter. But this year its all screwed, its sitting above us more often than normal hence the rain & rain & rain and the noises. You can hear it as the sounds being generated as they are only at 35,000 feet, like you can hear overflying jet aircraft 30,000 - 42,000 feet. .

Its the same 16 pin connector as late Corrados, early Corrados need the 2 x 2 adapter as usual. .

All the way to Mk6 including the Corrado including the "difficult" Corrado ECU's. I have a serial COM one. .

Give you a couple of clues ...... Green and 450bhp. .

H. You know the garage email! Autobox (RHDrive) 12 volt Control Voltage This circuit controls the Starter Solenoid 12 volt supply to act as the Starter Inhibit circuit. It activates relay contacts inside Relay 150 to switch the 12 volts from the ignition switch onto the Starter Solenoid connection. Ignition switch ---- Red/Black wire (4mm) ----- Relay Panel plug H1, pin 1 Through the Relay Panel internal busbars. Relay Panel plug F, pin 1 ---- Black wire (0.5mm) ----- Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel. Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay panel ----- Red wire (0.5mm) ----- 6 way inline connector by Gearshift 6 way inline connector by Gearshift ------ Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ----- Mirco Switch by Gearshift (Start inhibit switch) Mirco Switch by Gearshift (Start inhibit switch) ---- Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ----- 6 way inline connector by Gearshift 6 way inline connector by Gearshift ------ Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ------- Relay 150, pin 6 Relay 150, pin 6 carries on to Engine ECU pin 7 as Red wire (0.5mm) Autobox (RHDrive) 12 volt Solenoid Load Voltage Supply Circuit This circuit is the 12 volt Starter Solenoid supply interrupted by Relay 150. Providing the Starter Inhibit switch is closed (switched ON), Relay 150 will throw interal relay contacts to route 12 volts to the Starter Solenoid. Supplied from the Battery Busbar (30) inside the Relay Panel ..... Relay Panel, connection 30 ----- Red wire (4mm) ----- Relay 150, pin 2 (Connection 30 is the lowest of 3 Lucas connectors in a vertical column by the mounting lug for the Relay Panel onto the underdash metal frame. It is in a Red plug on the bottom row of plugs outboard side end. The Red plug is an Red adaptor which takes two other thick Red wires connected by Lucas connections in its head.) Relay 150, pin 8 ------ Red/Black wire (4mm) ----- Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel ----- Reb/Black wire (4mm) ------ Starter Solenoid ......................................... Relay 150 Removal Re-Wire Ignition/Starter Autobox by-pass Replicate manual gearbox circuit by taking a 4mm wire direct from Relay Panel Plug F, pin 1* to the Starter Solenoid connection direct. (4mm = 30 - 40 amps-ish.) * Your current wire pin 1 connection will only be a 0.5mm Black wire which needs to be removed entirely and the 4mm wire connected instead due to the electrical current load. Reverse Light Auto by-pass Simple way is to run two wires to the manual gearbox reverse switch using 1mm wire. Find plug D (Green 12 pin) on the Relay panel. Pin 9 is vacant (if you have a suitable end fitting connection to put into pin 9 position) Or Plug F (White 12 pin) and scotch Lock to Black (1mm) wire off pin 6. (This the reverse light supply feed off Fuse S14.) Take the fly wire to the reverse light switch on the gearbox. Next, connect a 1mm wire to Plug F, pin 7 by Scotch Loc. Take the other end to the Reverse Light Switch other connection on the gearbox. .

H. 150 is the starter inhibitor relay and reverse light switches. Also, for RHD there is small switch for starter inhibit by the gear shift, Red/Black wires in and out. Ignition feed goes through this switch from the key switch (via the relay panel internal busbars). It arrives at relay 150 on pin 5 as Red/Black wire. The Red wire on tis pin goes to the engine ECU. At relay 150, the internal contact supplies the thick Red/Black wire (4mm) off pin 8 goes to the starter solenoid. It draws its supply on the thick Red wire (4mm) on pin 2 from the battery busbar (30) in the relay plate. Fuse is S14, 10 amps, Black wire feed to relay 150 pin from ignition switched (15) relay panel busbar. This is the only fuse and its a supply for the reversing lights only. .

Had this problem.... for a while.... traced it to the virus checcker after its last major update last month. AVG set the last download to have Resident Sheild set with "set thorough scannig". With AVG it affects all browsers no matter what creed or colour. If you use AVG, knock off "set thorough scanning", only needed for corporate PCs. Its scanning, for example, for old viruses and exploits of operating system or browser flaws that have long been fixed, etc. This mode makes heavy demands on system resources and slows the PC down until the browser declares the www is running too slow! Hence the hang ups. Other virus checkers may be doing the same in similar settings. .

Don't forget to put the colour codes back on those coil springs ..... :ignore: .

They are both pre-shaped as you see them on the side of the engine in the clips. Ordinary straight fuel pipes will look odd as they won't have the right shape. VW spare parts are pre-shaped. .

You will have to follow each cable into the dash and disconnect that that end. Connection is a common type of plug/socket 2 pin if you need to replace the pair. Take them to any alarm specialist and they should have a set that will match connection and fit. .

Disconnect the ultra-sonics sensors. They may have become noisey with age. .

Unfortunately ---- yes. The inner measurement datum is inside the rubber boot. VR6's are more prone to tyre wear, as the torque/power amplifies the effect of any error. If the track rod hasn't been disturbed, then why measure. .

All track rods both left and right hand (as reference as part numbers) are the adjusterable type for all models throughout the production years, but the left hand track rod is set to a prescribed length at the factory for the fit of tyre width. As above 4 wheel track should be OK but when I had it done with the left changed, I got tyre wear. Soon after it was put back to factory setting and tyre wear stopped. The 205 mm tyre width for 16v/G60 was an optional extra fit at the factory. So unless originally factory supplied, the 185/195 dimension will apply to the original fitted left hand track rod. 16v figures are as above. 8v is based on 195mm tyre width, so 379.5mm +/-1mm. Correct to bulletin in November 1992. .

Because you've got a "plus running gear" on the C, a gear puller is acting against you due to the way they revised the driveshaft/hub splines. You need to push parallel the driveshaft out of the back of the hub. Need a tool that will attach to the wheel bolt positions and a centre to push the driveshaft out the back....aka VAG Press Tool 3283A. Tool pick up on 3 of the 5 wheel bolt positions. Centre bolt pushes. [ATTACH=CONFIG]64089[/ATTACH] Not a cheap tool even by third party source. .

Beige and only beige. :) Somebody has swapped that one for grey. .

I've just fixed a leak between the blue Charcoal Solenoid Valve and the pipe going into the engine. The crimp clip was slightly slack. The join is underneath the MAF, slightly to the rear of it. Kept getting little whiffs of fuel fumes. Found a drip forming on the join. .

The two rubber pipes in the photo connect to the thermostatic control valve which senses air intake temp. One pipe goes the engine side of the airbox to control air intake mix of cold air and hot air which is derived of the outside of the exhaust manifold (check it is intact and not dragging in cold air through a breakage). The other pipe goes the fuel over-run cut off valve and a pressure diaphragm (disc unit). The pressure diaphragm controls the 5th injector (blue connection unit on the inet manifold) so that fuel is injected when the engine starts or when accelerating during the warm-up phase. It gets switched off when the coolant therm-switch senses a warm engine. The thermo-switch is located below the top radiator hose coupling coming off the front of the engine. So if this lot doesn't work, you starting will be a long cranking of the engine rather than instant and you will have flat spots during the first 5minutes of warm-up of the engine. .