RW1

The latest does at v11.11.3. Your problem is that VCDS Lite will not work with CANBUS diagnostics in more modern VAG car range like the R32. v11.11.3 will work backwards onto the VR6 though.

Not fitted. So correct with only N80 tick-tocking and can assume the valve is operational. That includes the charcoal filter! Makes it a little harder!! Clear pipe has a straight unhindered run to the back of the car. That runs to the tank gravity valve and turns into a black pipe at the gravity valve. With the black pipe disconnected from the gravity valve, it will be hard to blow but on expelling your lungs, hold it and see if the pressure you've built up quickly dissipates. If not, there's a blockage - obviously. My clear pipe always stinks of fuel in the engine bay end. Lack of fuel smell suggests a blockage. Take the black pipe off the gravity valve and substitute a short piece of piping to stop wheel arch dirt getting in. Run the car and check the tank doesn't pressurise. It shouldn't if your gravity valve check is correct. Next bit means dropping the fuel tank as you want to get at the point behind the tank where the clear pipe from the front of the car joins the black pipe upto the gravity valve. To check and isolate the blockage into which section, black or clear pipe. .

Not so about the software, they still haven't made headway since 10 years ago, its rife in the digital compact cameras as its always has been for poor correction and I was most surprised to find it in some of the DSLRs from the mainstream camera/lens makers. Its why those 40 odd cameras at Christmas failed for me. I didn't want to spend hours correcting photos when the camera should be doing it in the first place. But that is my choice to insist its done in camera. They all had this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chromatic_aberration_1_14_2009.jpg, some chronic to the point of despair I wouldn't find a camera replacement as a compact. .

Wendy, Just gone through the same thing at Christmas. Bit fussy about what I wanted to replace trusty 10 year old Nikon 4300. The 4300 produces bob-on pictures straight out of the camera which has suited me for so long. And I don't think I'm going to stop using it despite the new camera below. http://www.steves-digicams.com/camera-reviews/nikon/coolpix-4300/nikon-coolpix-4300-review-7.html Long gone now, but so good I even bought a spare which is still in the box new upstairs, when Jessops were selling them off at £150 reduced from £400. At Christmas, rejected over 40 compact camera's in the price range £150 - £400. I was qute shocked how poor their lens were and how much chromatic abberation was present when compared to the 4300. (http://mansurovs.com/what-is-chromatic-aberration). This will be important with taking shots of views or high contrast changes in areas of the image. The other aspect I looked at was colour balance as I didn't want to be messing around in Photoshop correcting every single photo I took. I was interested also in having full exposure control of the image being taken, which would then allow me to override like my old film cameras do. The only two that passed on lens performance were........ http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/panasonic_lumix_dmc_gf3_review/ http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/nikon_coolpix_p7100_review/ Both are a little bit bigger than a standard compact digital holiday camera but not overly. Being brought up on Pentax and Nikon for 40 years, you can guess which I finally bought. It has all the controls built into the bigger DSLR Nikon cameras but without the messing around of separate lens and bulky camera body. And it met my zoom range of a standard 35mm film camera - 28mm to 200mm. No frills camera but has all the controls a serious photographer wants when travelling lightweight. Didn't buy it in Manchester, just used the shops to get touchy-feel for all the cameras I had listed. Eventually went to Big Norman in Gibraltar. They take care of all the customs charges, so no worries there. Knocked £75 off the lowest UK price and delivery was as advertised within 48 hours. http://www.bignorman.com/DigitalCompacts Looks to be still the case despite UK price drops. And if it goes faulty, you deal through the UK with them to sort it out. And of course, things have moved on a little so also have a look at the ..... http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/canon_powershot_g1_x_review/. And this looks good for lens performance http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/fujifilm_x_pro1_review/ for a comparison reference. Shame about the price though. I also used reviews of the DSLRs to compare the compact camera performances even though I wasn't buying. That way you can assess detail of the lens using the same photos. The photographyblog website is good cos all the reviews are the same set of comparisons so if the camera has been reviewed you can compared like with like immediately. And uses the lens in all sorts of focal lengths so you can really assess performance and colour. This one they use is very useful for assessing the Chromatic Abberation http://img.photographyblog.com/reviews/nikon_coolpix_p7100/sample_images/nikon_coolpix_p7100_14.jpg becasue the erected structure is black on a bright background. ETA: Link doesn't work so its the middle photo on the 5th row down next to the red phone box's top section here http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/nikon_coolpix_p7100_review/sample_images/ in the first of the two sample sections. .

Depending on the Sony model number you have, they were from the Accessory Catalogue for VW's showrooms. I have a Sony Radio-Cassette Unit XR-C620RDS with 10CD disc changer CDX-91 and joystick control unit RM-X2S which the original owner opted for rather than the Storm's standard package CDX- 600DSP radio/CD player. You could add speakers as well. Since acquired a Sony CDX-600 to go back the Storm's brochure standard. The standard fit to the VR6 when purchased new was a Sony XR-6659RDS. If you went the Sony route and not the other - Panasonic to 1993 iirc. All my new Scirocco's didn't come with a radio fitted by Karmann. I used to take the car without radio and fit my own Pioneer at the time. VW's ICE brochure was refered to as "Trade-Up". Factory fitting of radios didn't start until after Corrado ceased production for UK deliveries as above. List is here on post numbr 27... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?52860-Keep-it-original/page3&highlight=Radio+CDX600DSP .

Its just a point you need to assess when you go to see it. But I can envisage it possibly leaving depression in the underseal at best and one always has an eye for that and it then nags. Look at it this way, how many times are you going to take the back axle/front subframe off??? So do you really need that particular type off car lift........ I had contemplated the jack stands above but the mechanical version with ratchet socket spanner, as hydraulics rot with time & little use. So it could prove costly in replacement parts. Only cost and amount of use put me off. Decided to stick to what I do now in the end. Jacks and axle stands as I've always done. .

You've got to remember the VWs have a PVC underseal skin which never really sets. It doesn't grip the sill and floor pan well like paint in lateral directions and its not meant to be load bearing, more impact damage protection. So under the weight of the Corrado the underseal could act as a lubricant. At best it could mark. At worst it could rip the underseal, just as the garage lift hoist do. Depending how it tilts, ie. free to swing or damped swing, will have an influence. Any sudden change of attitude, may induce a slip not so much the lift to sill underseal but more the underseal to sill panel due to the lack of surface grip between the sill phosphate coating and the PVC underseal. And placing towels/old blankets to protect from the lifting frame has the same risk of just slipping. .

Yes, Lambda Probe. Red /White as per photo. Goes to Fuse 18 on fusebox via connector G1, pin 8, White plug connector, one of two whites at adjacent positioning. Missing is... Red/yellow. Goes to same as above, G1 pin 8 Green. Goes to connector D, pin 6 on fuse/relay plate. Green plug connector. Eventually ends up at the Digifant ECU and instrument panel. Brown. Multi point Earth connection at Fuse/Relay panel. .

I would check the engine bay charcoal filter valve with VCDS Output Tests first and be sure there are no pipe kinks as thats easier. If nothing amiss found then tackle the gravity valve. The gravity fuel valve sits on a round rubber seal (N90359601) inside the main white plastic body. You may find that is perished when removing the valve. There is a flat blade type clip (rusty) on gravity valve top the far right in the first photo. Pull upwards to enable the gravity valve to be released. Its not listed as a part and may well come with a new gravity valve. Hence why you should tackle in the order posted as parts may be hard to source, ie. the gravity valve securing clip not listed by VW. .

Did it from memory but have edited my post since. First photo, right side. You can see the black breather pipe and rusty clip from the charcoal filter on top of the gravity valve. The breather pipe is attached to the spout coming off the top. Theres a sliding clip in that remaining mud that releases the valve. I was describing it from underneath in the wheel arch as a ball well you llok upwards which is the bottom half you can see in the photo. .

Yes, the blue unit on the strut tower forward face. You can check its operation in VCDS using VCDS Output Tests - 03. You hear a faint "tick,... tick,...tick" coming from it if its responding to the engine ECU commands. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?16110-VR6-Misfire/page8&highlight=output+test+injector Also check you have not got a pinched pipe on the engine bay to tank run (clear hard tube) and also the pipes to the carbon canister have not been pinched in some way. If none of the above, then back to the tank filler. There is an anti-gravity valve at the top of the filler neck inside the wheel arch. (Prevents fuel escaping if the Corrado flips in an accident). They can seize closed so the tank doesn't breath. Its on the front side (ie.headlight end) of the filler neck top and looks like a table tennis ball with a pipe to it (breather to the charcoal filter). Part number 357 201 751. A clip holds it in which slides at an upwards angle to release it. In vertical normal postion the gavity valve breaths, tilt to 45 degrees either way and it shuts. .

Screwed. Had the same 20 years ago with a red light runner smashing up the front of my new Scirocco. Was spun round to face where I came from. No witnesses as it was New Years Day. Trapped in my car. Then round the corner down the road from where I had driven from, a poxy Nova arrived. Guy gets out, asks if I am alright, I say No! but he walks away. Then he has a long chat with the other driver, and then procceeds to help the other driver destroy the accident scene on a totally empty road. So no position notes or photgraphs can be taken. The irony of it is I had £3k of video and stills cameras in the boot going to a venue. Finally out of my Scirocco and I am accused by this person who was not present of driving through a red light. Insurance used him as a witness, signed ......... Fireman. The 3rd party even tried to claim for a big food shop of £150. My insurance were paying out until I referred them back to the photographs provided to them. The camera never lies as I had zapped a film through of everything. No shopping in the boot or car back seat. Even then they wouldn't believe my side and the false witness because of it being signed by a Fireman. So I understand and its only time that will heal. I paid in loaded premiums for 3 years and lost £2k in the true value of the car in that incident. With the Mini DVD matured and cheap enough for a decent image, it is why I now have the SmartCam on the dash. And as of tomorrow, a rear looking one will be fitted to the rear parcel shelf. Could have done with it last night as someone behind was determined I going through amber/red, I was stopping (normally), he wasn't, and went side ways but fortunately missed me. The events that happen round here are getting to crazy levels. .

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61597[/ATTACH]

At least it will be a little warmer...... . [ATTACH=CONFIG]61593[/ATTACH]

It says.... "Selected steel." I usually take that to mean its... Made in China! Just make sure all metal edges are smooth and de-burred or it will rip the lead surfaces and cap rubber boots which lead to ignition HT leakage. Thats why VW changed the original VW Workshop metal tool years ago. .

Lets just hope that the members at Leic. & Warwickshire O.C. can pick themselves up and that the cancellation is not damming in busting the Club's finances. Cos the heritage of these types of shows was a local show held to boost club funds. And its all run by volunteers, many of which have done it year on year. And its growth as a show is a credit to their dedication and that we can enjoy a good gathering each May Day bank holiday weekend. So when they've collected themselves together after this decision which was not taken lightly last night, we should make every effort to attend the revised show date later this year to show our support and appreciation of their hard work. .

Apparently the lower areas were flooded after rain on Thursday and are not fit for use. Alternative arrangement on the road above the lake and Hall forecourt wouldn't have worked. .

Just spoken to Rob Loughrey on the phone who confirms the above's authenticity. They looked at alternative ways to present the show but none are suitable. I suppose when they have recovered from the shock and scramble to inform all, they may look at an alternative date later in the year. Put the Scirocco (Mk2) back in the garage and get on with mending the fences. . Apparently the lower areas were flooded after rain on Thursday and are not fit for use.

No, it was only fitted to Corrado's from October 1994 onwards. Any VW 1995 onwards to about 1999 with have the sensor fitted, maybe worth going to see a scrap VW. Or

Here one I prepared earlier...... [ATTACH=CONFIG]61077[/ATTACH] .

Sensor promity is the igntion barrel ring sensor and change the cable & ring sensor for another one as written peviously. In other words you have a difficult problem if the above doesn't work and need someone who knows what they are doing to solve it at the car. .

The key sensor isn't matched. Thats why I suggest it as its easier. Immobiliser boxes are pretty robust so I don't think its that...... Needs an expert on it at the Corrado after you tested the sensor proximity and change the sensor & cable. Just check all the fuses are OK..... just in case. .

Two last things before it gets more difficult. Take off the top steering cowl. 1) Locate the ring shaped sensor round the ignition barrel. Get it closer to the plastic key body and turn the ignition to start. If not that.... 2) Take off the ring shaped sensor altogether and disconnect it from the immobiliser box inside the dash. Substistute another one and try starting again. If both fail, you will need to look at a replacement immobiliser box, matching up to the engine ECU with VCDS. Ross-Tech explains http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_I_Immobilizer_Swapping_(Separate) .

17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-00 - That's the key one. VW's immobliser is not working correctly. Did you disconnect the ignition barrel sensor's connector at the immobiliser. It must be disconnected bfore you spray WD40 on it. . .

If its the Camshaft Position Sender, fault 00515, the engine will still start and continue to run, not die, just it will be in limp home mode feeling like a cylinder's worth of power is missing. If its the standard immobilser blocking, then a fault code will appear, 17978. Thats associated with this type of failed start. Waiting 10 mins will do nothing. You can't swap the key because it contains a small encoded chip to the immobiliser. But I suggest you check the chip has not fallen out of the key fob plastic body, if the body is damaged. It looks like this, the little rectangular object in the plastic body, top right. [ATTACH=CONFIG]60833[/ATTACH] If lost, you are stuffed as unless you have a spare key with the chip, you will need to get new keys encrypted to you Corrado's immobilser at the dealers. First things is to get the ECU fault codes, read the engine and immobilser memories again so see whats there in the way of stored codes. Clear down the fault first and then try starting, then read the new fault codes in both ECU. Immobiliser is controller 25. Haven't read anyone mentioning the ignition key sensor to immboliser connection under the dash above the spoiler switch. (ETA: Posted by Floppyman while writing this!) Disconnecting and spraying with WD40 to see if its a micro-corrosion problem blocking the key signal. Follow the shiney black cable off the steering column wiring to the immobiliser box on the inside of the dash. Disconnect the brown 3 pin connector carefully as they are small fine pins and sockets. Spray with WD40 and re-connect. After this it gets more difficult to pin point. So try check the key fob out if its split open at all, try the WD40 trick, get the ECU re-scanned (clear faults down first, try starting and then look at the faults codes and what they are.). .