RW1

I wasn't intending to hi-jack this thread..... so here goes but I think a mod should do some snipping out..... I had a good look round for a Dash-Cam over the last few weeks as I was getting fed-up with near miss situations, red light runners and Astra chavs buzzing the Scirocco. After looking at quite a lot from £25 upto £400, I came to the conclusion that the video quality did not improve once beyond £60ish, just more bells & whistle like GPS. So why buy a £220 Dash-Cam with GPS if the video quality was no better than a £60 one. Was it necessary for me - No! Then I came across Techmoan, who has done some really practical hands-on reviews of various Dash Cams via YouTube. After consideration of my needs, ie. black-box recorder with no real daily maintenance to set up and bulky awkward size.... I decided upon this one, the SmartCam HD (not the VGA version). - It runs continously (15min segment recordings or less, each end on end and then loops to the beginning when the micro-card is full) - It could be switched on/off by the ignition. - Video quality was good. - Sound recording not too bad. - Reasonably wide angle lens without too much distortion, 120 degrees. - Good night time imaging. - Compact but with mini viewing screen. Techmoan does a very good review here and there are two to choose from. The HD version is best. In fact just under the YouTube screen you can download a daytime and nightime raw video files out of the SmartCam. Daytime raw AVI video file out of the camera http://www.mediafire.com/?ddgir87v9iedfv3 Night time raw AVI video file of the camera http://www.mediafire.com/?s4r29acet2x9yb5 (Use the "Save target as" option on the right click of the mouse to download. Give time to react as the files are large 54Mb & 42Mb resppectively) What I will say is that it comes with no micro-card. So you have to buy that separtely. It has to be a Class 10, any slower causes poor video, sound sync or missed frames when the video is stored. SO THIS MUST BE CLASS 10. Got the SmartCam here.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartCam-HD-Car-DVR-720P-Dashcam-Driving-Recorder-HDMI-2-0-LCD-UK-SELLER-/200745123135?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2ebd577d3f Scott sells them and he's very good in responding to queries so no worries buying off Ebay. Delivered the next day! The 32Gb Class 10 Micro Sd Card I bought was this one..... http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005FY61EK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 It works very well with the SmartCam. Good video, seamless storing no noticeable loss when a segment completes and the camera starts the next. The rate is 4Gb/1 hour recording. The 32Gb should give me about 7.5 to 8 hours historical recorded video blocked into segments of 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 or 10 or 15 minutes depending how the SmartCam is set-up. Bear in mind that when the micro-card is full, that SmartCam deleteds the oldest file first as it loops so that deletes 15 minutes if you have it set to 15 mins. So if retention is really critical, work with small segments of stored video file such as 5 minutes. It comes with a screen mount as you have seen in the YouTube review. I didn't want that as sucker rings indicate a SatNav being used and that means little light fingers getting interested. So I decided in true Blue Peter fashion to make my own mount on top of the dash out of hard foam, draft excluder foam and a bit of none slip mat from Maplin. [ATTACH=CONFIG]60809[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]60825[/ATTACH] The power wire will eventually be hidden next week when I complete the installation. I've flipped the mini-screen in the menu so it looks right if I want it flipped up to see in that position. [ATTACH=CONFIG]60813[/ATTACH] It just pops into the foam frame and there is a mini USB connection to fit, pretty easy to do in that postion. It doesn't obscure the windscreen view. No windscreen mount, although the mount supplied is pretty small. And no dangling wires when I've finished tracking it over the fuse box on the end of the right side of the dash. [ATTACH=CONFIG]60817[/ATTACH] From the front through the windscreen, not much to see. I've left the two little LEDs off. Its postion is no worse than being on the sucker mount it comes with, still see all in front over a 120 degree angle. [ATTACH=CONFIG]60821[/ATTACH] Easy to disconnect and the SmartCam can be then popped into your top shirt pocket if removal dictates. Its no different in size and thickness to a mobile phone. In practice, in that position on the dash is what I see when driving, so the120 degree wide angle pretty much covers it. The hard foam mount is good enough to reduce dash vibration. I found in high lateral "g" situations such as going round a roundabout, the unit initiall slide on the dash a little. So added the Maplin sticky anti-slip mat (trimmed). That worked a treat. Aiming is not an issue as the lens is so wide angle. If its pointing forward by eye, that will do but it is best to reduce as much visible sky in the frame otherwise the road & vehicles become under exposed (dark). You'll soon see when in use. I fitted some tape as Techmoan did on the underside to stop the camera part vibrating and to ensure it was point straight ahead, not skyward or into the bonnet. The Smart Cam is also a stills camera. File size of 1.3Mb suggests with 4Mp - 5Mp definition with a lens zoom (Which also operates in the movie mode as well). The lens quality is not as good as a standard digital camera picture though. The internal battery will give about 40 - 45 mins when I measured it. It will play back on the miniscreen the video/stills files. So all round VFM for me. I decided that if I get two years use out of it, video camera sensors will have moved on again and I'll consider moving on from there. If you want better coverage, then this maybe worth looking at but it looks bulky and I've seen no video from it yet. I expect it to be the same quality as all the crop of 2011 Dash Cams like Smart Cam. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140730789116?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_npmv%3D3%26_trksid%3Dm570.l2736%26_nkw%3D140730789116%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1 .

Cos of this sort of situation, as of last week my daily runner is now kitted out with a video camera that just switches on/off with the ignition and just loops round a 32Gb microcard all the time (8 hours recording - black box). So no need to touch it and set it up everytime. Not bad for £45 and £29 for a Class 10 micro-card. Within 1 day of fitting, had an idiot pull right towards me in the offside lane going into a roundabout. Just signalled while along side him on his rear/mid quarter and immediately started to move right without checking his right hand side. All on video so there would have been no arguement about his driving. .

Sorry to hear. Had the same just before Christmas with my Scirocco being clipped on the rear bumper. RAC gave me two choices. - Claim through the RAC policy, take a the hit of paying access and a raised premium this year cos I was claiming. (Inyour case take RAC as being Chris Knott equivalent.) or - Use Drive Assist who would handle the claim and just keep my insurer under the RAC policy informed at the begining that you've had a bump and using Drive Assist, in my case LV Insurance. So I took the Drive Assist route because I had a clear case of being driven into, ie. I was sat in the house with the car parked outside stationary & locked. Never spoke to LV again after informing them of Drive Assists involvement as Drive Assist had been given the job of repairing and recovering my costs. In your case if its very clear cut it was not your fault backed-up by witnesses, then Drive Assist will work independantly of the insurer Highway. Going this way, you effectively set a hound on the tail of the third party who are definitiely at fault. You are using Drive Assist to claim all your costs off the 3rd party's insurance policy. If Drive Assist win the case, then you have made no claim on your insurance with Highway so, no access to pay and no increased premium to pay at renewal. (My renewal dropped £90 this year despite the bump as the RAC saw no claim made on the LV policy) Now the stings. Repairing. No choice I believe where it goes. Drive Assist take the Corrado away and repair it at one of their bodyshops (which have better VAG approvals than VW dealers!) Mine was with ADR Bodyshops. The repair was very good but for me, only 98% of a job, little things on the bumper skin could have been better. But credit to ADR, they did their level best to return the Scirocco as before the bump, even down to refitting the protective body screw caps I had fiited myself. They used genuine VW parts but as said, a little more difficult to acheive with a Corrado. The hire car. There is a sting with Drive Assist car hire. They took your credit card number details at the car hire handover???? If the 3rd party's insurer refuses to pay for the hire car under the Drive Assist route you have taken, all the hire car costs kick back on you. Thats a risk you are taking. And thats why it has to be an open & shut case it was the 3rd party's fault with witnesses. The only negative, is communication with Drive Assist and the bodyshop. You will find yourself having to pull both of them together along with the hire car aspect at the end. Would I go this route again? .... yes as its avoided any affect on my policies for my cars and therefore no increased insurance plus I paid no access on the repair. .

I ground the two little nodes down on mine many years ago. By doing it, it allows the rubber wiper blade to fully rest on the windscreen, where as beforehand, the arm was stopped by the nodes and only light pressure is applied through the rubber onto the windscreen. So the outer ends of the wiper blade skip the windscreen surface. Its intended to stop the arm scratching the windscreen if the blade carrier and rubber wiper are missing. With them ground down so the wiper arm does not contact them, the wiper blades work properly as maximum pressure is being applied to the carrier and wiper blade by the arm. . ---------- Post added at 1:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 AM ---------- The reason I think for the two part numbers is a little bit different. The original wiper carriers and rubber blades for early Corrados were Scirocco Mk2 parts and if you notice, the arm lengths are slightly different, hence the "A" suffix being used on the later one. The original wipers were still the same lengths of span - 475mm, but part numbers were 533 955 425B (passenger), 533 955 425C. Which would dictate the coupling pointposition between the carrier and the arm hook end. Now they are Golf Mk3 - 1H0 955 427 & Polo - 6N0 955 427 respectively.

The instruments may be CANBUS driven so quite a lot to do if fitted to an old analogue system like the Corrado. The lights switch was modernised as in the review topic for that. So all is not like for like. .

Why punch it ... it just clips in. .

Cheshire one is the one Jim is talking about above, sold. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49025-C5-oem-deposit-taken&p=843389#post843389 .

Not good at all but at least you got to it before it got serious. In the photo, that black tape doesn't look like factory and there are some thick black wires I wouldn't expect. Not the alarm by any chance? One of the thick black looks as though the screw burnt through the insulation. Not upset the alarm and its preventing the circuit to complete on what ever it controls to inhibit starting? .

Plenty of info on here..... http://the-corrado.net/search.php?searchid=1321701 .

Just lift your gearstick surround frame and forward ahead of the gearstick. Your will either see a 16 pin dual line (2 x 8 pin) connector which the standard usually supplied. Or you will see 3 x 2 pin connections. If it is 3 x 2 pin then you need the additional 16 pin to 2 connectors x 2pin adaptor. On '93 I'd expect you to find the 16 pin that is normally supplied with the software. .

That looks like the Power Output Stage for ignition coil wire connections. The other half of the connector is on the bulkhead by the Header Tank. Black is Pin 1 Green is Pin 2 Brown is Pin 3 With the ignition on, the loose wires .... Black (+ve) to Brown (earth) will be ignition 12 volts. .

You can't get things right if the reference manual is wrong....... Depends which wiring diagram source you are looking at. In the Bentley, they are the little two letter set or sets like ws or ws/ge. These are placed somewhere along the drawn diagrammed wire in the wiring diagram. The first example is a single White coloured wire ws, no colour stripe, ie. ws = white; the second is a White coloured wire with a Yellow stripe colour, ie. in this ge = yellow. The VAG colour code is standard for all diagrams as Bentley is VW derived and usually on the diagram somewhere. Then they use the same wire colours to confuse you. In which case you have to look at the wire size 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm to determine its the right wire with that colour code or codes. Second thing I have is the correct relay positions and their functions. There's a diagram I posted up somewhere on the forum but the search doesn't find it. Third thing is I have detail photos of the wiring, so can see at a glance on my PC. Sad really. :( HTH . http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?14783-help-on-lamba-probe-wiring&highlight=lambda+probe+relay

Naa, according to the four wires to the inverted 53 relay, White, Red/Yellow, Red/White and Red/Blue, its the Lambda Probe heating Relay. Comes from fuse 18 (20A) on the Red/Yellow. ECU control input is on White. Red/White goes to the Lambda probe connector above the rear right engine mount. Red/Blue goes to ECU switch 12 volts from its ECU relay. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56785-What-does-this-relay-control-FIXED&highlight=chattering+lambda .

Stacks at B&Q for the Painter's Tape. I don't have a problem with it. With the masking tapes on the same shelf. Pricey though. Cheaper to go to my detailer store. .

Just a thought if they are being made up from scratch...... Put the plug cap on the spark plug cable end. Fit the spark plug cap into position on the spark plug. Take the cable down the groove as though fitted. Take to the relevant Dizzy Cap or coil pack connection. Cut the spark plug wire on the far edge of the cap or pack connection and then fit the cap's or pack's right angled connection. That way, they are the right length for that plug lead connection. .

Just gone through all my spares...... the lengths are cable length only, end to end. One exception, number 5 cylinder, both early and late as specified on ETKA, are 20mm longer on the actuals for some reason. .

Yup, Dim-Dip connection. Either just disconnected or the Corrado had an uprated headlight loom/relays fitted. .

A little bit shy there, 034 133 283 - Dashpot: £44.41 + VAT = £53.30. .

Used Magnatec, always quietened down my 8v tappets and VR6. [ATTACH=CONFIG]59361[/ATTACH] ???? Magnatec 10w40 listed. Wouldn't use Edge though in an old engine. Just bought last August last of the stock of Castrol Magnetec 15w40, 3 cases of 4 x 4ltrs for £100. Think that works out at £8.33 per 4 ltr bottle. Now obsolete just like the Corrado. .

Corrado engine code and year please as you've not posted anywhere which Corrado you have. .

Normal, engine is in excellent fettle. VW limits (KR engine): 0.5% CO max., HC - not specified, at idle 800 - 1,000 rpm for workshop emmission test at 80'C oil temp.. My Silver Scirocco 8v K-Jet (DX code) is between 0.12 - 0.14% CO, 40 - 64PPM at MoTs for the last 12 years. VW's engines are quite clean if set up right and not worn. MoT limits (3.5 & 1200ppm) are general, not VW's figures for the engine. .

What does the under dash manual switch do? Same or work correctly? .

Lambda Active has to be within limits between 0.97 - 1.03 to be working correctly for emissions. Adaption, how far off ECU requested demanded signal for the air / fuel mixture with the ISV is. Typically the value is between 0.97 & 1.03 when running correctly. The nearer to 1, the better. When the ISV is called upon to function, the ECU sends it a pulsed signal which rapidly opens and closes it. As you know. This is to achieve the target idle speed based on engine temperature. It is measured as a duty cycle, or percentage of time it is open. (Time On versus Time Off). 52% - 58% is typical for the VR6 when idling when in good tune. Indications outside these parameter ranges point to an ISV not operating perfectly. As Floppyman has written, the ECU is not happy with the ISV .

Some reference data: [ATTACH=CONFIG]58881[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]58885[/ATTACH] ISV need the duty cycle % TBH I think the jerk a mechanical fault with a loose engine. .

Karmann were still producing body spare panels back in 1999 when I went to the factory. .