GrahamU

Nice buy, look forward to seeing the build If you put the cooler in the middle both style of engines are easy and cross for one side to the other, the BAM is neater though in my opinion

There is a resemblance to the Chiron but looks like its been crossed with something out of mad max 2/10 can do better :)

You will need the 02a flywheel to fit the 16v gearbox. Gearbox choice makes a big difference depending on how you want to drive it, 16v is geared quite low so you have quicker acceleration but run out to soon so alot of people go for the diesel CTN box I have 17" wheels so I've used the mk5 1.8T box (02J) which has a higher diff ratio and was designed for bigger wheels, but I have also fitted the 5th gear from my old 16v box to bring 5th gear cruising up a bit more. You will need different drive shaft cups for the 02J, I got some from a later diesel box A 6 speed box from the mk4 is quite different to fit, there are braket kits out there but you will need shorter driveshafts, bit of a pain to do AGU is also a strong engine. How far do you want to go with power? A stage 1 BAM will give you 265bhp but a AUQ (later mk4) with the k03s will give you 230bhp, I've looked into fitting hybrid internals which should take it up to about 250bhp with a quicker spool time so faster acceleration than a stage 1 BAM I dont know how much truth is in it but I did hear that the 16v KR fuel pump has higher pressure than the later 2.0 16v Theres alot of info on the net, most of it good, some absolute balls, If you know how you want the car to drive you can research it As above, I dont know if Qpeng are still about but there are other downpipes such as Trackslag

Congrats on the wedding

Although a distant memory, I'd have to say the 1.8 20v turbo engine, brought the old girl to life

I must admit I've only gone bigger for cosmetic reasons behind the 17's But the bearings are better and I have heard of MOT testers who dont have experience of older cars failing the rears for the play they have

If you wanted to go vented 256 you would need an adapter plate but you could then use the setup from a lean cupraR, have seen people cut the plate from the ends of the cupraR rear axle and use that

I know the wiring and light switch can be bad but are you expecting a big fire :) Tidy motor

Oh bugger, I have the swg cover aswell and the sticker isnt in my boot now :(

Did I read they are clamping down on the VIN number, if its not in the original place they will have a problem with it ?

Please dont say it was Martins (Smurf)

I got a blister on my toe this week Been pretty lucky really

Good to see it coming along Looks a bit tight, why didnt you take the front panel off?

The only area to worry about is the speedo drive I cleaned mine with a mix of comma hyper clean, cillit bang and a pressure washer

yep :)

I assume you mean the copper washers for the banjo joint, 10mm

Great news on the job Bring on the shiny new bits

glad to see you got it sorted

Thanks for the info, I will check what size my springs are

OK, still could be wiring but maybe check the spoiler control box that is at the front of the dash, kinda behind the area below the light switch

Look good Dox, what you looking for posted please

Sounds like a monster. Get some pics up

That sounds a bit odd, at the moment I dont have a cluster in mine at all and I can move the spoiler with the button Could be a bit more than cluster, maybe some wiring has fried Be good to know what you find

As the title says, I would like a pair of the spring caps that lower the front suspention TIA Graham

Sounds like you have the twin LDC cluster, yes? I'd first wip the cluster out and see if it is that that smells or something else behind the dash. If it is the cluster you will have 2 possible choices, remove the front plastic and gauges, find what has burnt and if you are lucky and the damage is limited, replace it (or have someone else replace it) Or, buy another cluster. It does all sound cluster related with the loss of gauges and the spoiler stuck. Can you move the spoiler manually?