krnau

thanks :notworthy: It looks like I'll have to look for some of these cams :lol:

I'm getting one of these for my other half, at a price of 350Pounds with a head gasket gone. Well, that's what the seller says, maybe its a dead thermostate or a non-working radiator fan or oil cooler failure.. who knows! I know it isn't a fast car, it's only 160 HP but we really like the look of it. I even considered getting one when I was looking for a corrado :D Has anyone ever had one of these? Is it really hard to do the head gasket job? It's got two heads I think, but if needed, there will come a full engine rebuild :grin: well now, any opinions are wellcome :) thanks for looking!!!

glue some broken glass or needles under the door handle, job done

it has happened to me; not for my corrado, but for me: I mean, people wanting me.. :| and several times. All I did when this used to happen, was go to where I thought they would be waiting for me and just walk around them calmly. Yes, it may sound a lil like chuck norris but it's what I would do if I were you. I would drive the car to the pub, and wait for him. Risky, yes, but this is the only way you will sleep ok tonight with the car parked outside.

if wirings of your car are oe, there should be a nr.13 relay for sure

well now, looking at the wiring diagrams you posted, I can see that the a.c. system on your car is really different from mine :( It has a lot of wires, while mine has only a few :nuts: So my help is not useful, sorry :( I would buy that relay off ebay and then pray...

woh, can't help you with it, I own an early valver.. but I read a post somewhere in this forum (or clubgti maybe) of someone saying that when rad fan kicked in, a.c. clutch also did; and the failure was a diode located somewhere in the wire you have encircled in your last post. climatronic also needs info of the current coolant temperature in order to stop the a.c. compressor, and it's taken from the same wire you say as well. I have been googleing for a picture of the relay 13 diagram, but I can't find it. It may be a "normal" double relay, but sorry I can't remember :(

WOW! At least in my car, all a.c. harness is fed by a.c. evaporator temp switch, then power goes to the pressure switches (similar to the one you have in the pictures) and then, if everything is right, activates the relay (that you're missing). I would borrow that relay from a friend or buy it in a scrap yard or ebay...

I used P500 and then P1500/2000, then some abrassive polish and job done.

yes, probably it'll need the relay, but who knows... or maybe it was removed because of some a.c. faulty.. The first time I took out the dash, I found a speaker wire which was about ...¿0.75m long? .. well, it was made of 5 short wires and all wrapped with duct tape......... The second (and last!) time I took out the dash I had a deeper look into wirings and I was surprised at the wiring mess that had been previously done to the car :( so it wouldn't be a surprise if the a.c. relay has been bridged using wires from behind the fusebox, or who knows... that's why I asked you to check for +12v on the evap temp switch... it would be good news if you found 0v!!!

can't help with the relay jumping, as I don't have access to my relay ATM :( have you checked for 12v on evaporator temperature switch? It's the first thing of the a.c. harness to get +12v so if there is no 12v, then you will have to look for a faulty a.c. switch or even the missing relay. I would buy that one off ebay that I posted on the first page, looks cheap IMO. However, grab a multimeter and check the evaporator temp switch with a.c. ON and fan speed > 0 ... if there's no +12v, it may be because of the relay/switch/wiring from fusebox to switch. If I were you, I would firstly check if you can see +12v on the evap.tmp.switch. if not, buy the relay off ebay.

right then, I haven't thought about relay13 reallocation... :? If so, a.c. compressor clutch may be faulty. Quick test is to give it +12v and gnd directly into its electrical connector. if you can't hear a ¡¡CLASCH!! then you have found (one of the several) faulty(s). If you DO hear the CLACK coming from the compressor internals, then first thing I would do is to check the following by using a multimeter: 1. turn on A.C., set blower fan on speed > 0, select air to windscreen. 2. check if you get +12v on the evaporator temp switch terminals 3. check for +12v on a.c. pressure switch (it has 4 pins, there should be 2 for high and 2 for low press as both switches are assembled together) 4. check for +12v on a.c. compressor plug, it has 2 pins as well. A.C. (I think) system gets 12v from the fuse box and, by using several relays/senders etc, follows the above order (1,2,3,4) so if you find 12v on one point and then 0v in the following one, there you have found the problem. If you can't see +12v anywhere, then I would pull out lower parcel shelves/a.c. controls and dials and switches and backtrace the a.c. switch wirings to the fusebox and see into what plug(and pin) they are connected; then come back here and post the results :) btw, why are you talking about rad fan relays? I thought you had a problem with AC only

http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Relais-Nr-13-Klim ... 1c0fcdeaf5

corr90wd.pdf[/attachment:3jrhwqru] Not sure about the relay number, sorry :( I have the one you can see in the picture and it works... however, vr6' rad fan is controlled by the 'box' you can see next to the coolant tank, and this doesn't appear in the wirings I have attached I think... but... should the aircon wirings be the same? i don't know

http://s3.subirimagenes.com/fondosycapt ... 33mail.jpg you should deffo have a nr. 13 relay in there. make sure that you also have the a.c. fuse. The fact that you don't have that relay there, makes me think that one of the previous owners may have had some fuse blowing issues (maybe not) and removed the relay, so be careful and have ALWAYS a fire extinguisher next to you when you're working on wirings.. :nuts: try to get a relay off a passat/golf/seat toledo etc and come back with fresh news so I can help you as much as I can btw, do you have the corrado wiring diagrams? I can send them to you by mail if you don't already have them, A.C. is covered there 8)

I once was told that UK corrados were dealer fitted aircon, so unless yours was imported, it won't (probably) have an OEM a.c. :( There is a connector attached to the radiator, which (in my car) is for a.c. clutch In addition, if you look under-behind the dash on p/side, you will see the recirculated air flap and you may even see (hope to!) two wires which are for the a.c. evaporator temperature switch. One of these two wires should show +12v when you switch on the a.c.

This may be of no help for you as I have an oem a.c. system... I have an a.c. relay in pos. 1 in the fusebox, as well as a fuse. THen, in engine bay, I have another relay for the a.c. compressor clutch, attached to the radiator fan housing. hope it helps. What's the problem with yours? I've had an incredible research on corrado a.c. system for the climatronic retrofit I did last months, I may be of some help if you say what is wrong with yours. edit: ok now I see you aren't getting 12v on the clutch. I would start by bypassing a.c. pressure switches and a.c. evaporator temperature sender. If still there's no 12v there, grab a multimeter and check that you get 12v on the a.c. evaporator temp switch pins. At least on my a.c., all current goes FIRSTLY through the a.c. evap temp switch.

that's why I said I wouldn't do it to my car. but it would pass mot ... a friend of mine got it done (front springs only) and it looks/drives good

you can get them pressed, but I wouldn't

Crappy quality pics. paint code is LZ7N, it's not on the first page of this topic, but it is oem color anyway.... It usually looks black, but depending on the light intensity it looks dark grey or even green in some pictures :cuckoo: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf23082009(004).jpg[/attachment:3nli1glo] DSCN5467.JPG[/attachment:3nli1glo]

ok, well that might have been it :(

just in case... have you tried turning the key clockwise and then pushing?

Hi all, All of a sudden, MPG started to show really "optimistic" values, so I directly suspected of a vacuum leak. I decided to "delete" the vacuum pipe that's attached to the back of the cluster (early style cluster), so I unplugged it from the inlet manifold (it was attached to a t-fitting piece which I deleted) and connected the one that attaches to the ECU directly to the inlet manifold nipple, right. NOW, the dash is getting no vacuum at all, so it should show either 0 or 99 mpg (min, or max, or whatever) as it has no signal.... BUT NO!! It's showing the correct MPG value now :| :| :| :| :| with the vacuum pipe disconnected. How is it possible?¿!?¿!? I guess it's getting the MPG value from the ECU??? Let the experts come arround and give me some help,, please 8)

I'm talking about spain legislation, but I think front fogs aren't a must. I.e. some new cars don't have them. The ones that you must have are rears (and only One, the second one is optional). I wouldn't personally reduce the space of the front fog+turning lights. I think it looks crappy because one of the good points of the corrado is that headlights are the same width as the fog+indicator. Just my personal opinion though ;) however, it's your car and it's you the one who has to like it :) go ahead with the job if you like it, and post some pictures please 8)

that's what I have. but both nipples aren't oriented this way :( thank you anyway!!