Wullie

Just a thought, have you sync'd the motors with the sunroof movements? There have been a few posts on here about it. You have to get the motor and roof trying to do the same thing at the same time or it locks up.

When you have the valves and that out the stem seals will be sitting on the ends of the valve guides down inside the head, looking from the top. Remove them with some long nosed pliers. To put in the new ones put the valve back in the head. You should get some little plastic covers in the kit to put over the ends of the valves to protect the seals while they are pushed down the valve stem to seat on the guides. To push the seals on there is a special tool for this but I drilled a hole, around 6 mm down the centre of a piece of dowel and used that to push them into place. Ive attached a pdf file that covers most of the stuff you'll need to do this. If I'm rambling a bit it's because I'm drinking a large glasss of wine while staring at my patio waiting for ants to commit suicide. See off topic chat

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81294&start=30 Have a look through thjis thread, particularly from page 2 onward. It may dispel some of your fears about stem seals and the work involved. I did mine and more over a weekend and used the car on Monday for work.

This may help. Or not! viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76660

Is this scary or what. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4CCWoF-DCU

Could be a cause for slight confusion here if someone was working down through the list. Item 8 says 8. After installing airbag unit and reconnecting airbag electrical connectors, switch ignition on, then reconnect negative battery cable. But in the later warning section it states - The ignition switch must be turned on BEFORE reconnectiing the battery cable. There is the possibility that item 8 could be followed with whatever resuls from connecting the battery with the ignition on. It may be a cunning plan to re-word item 8 accordingly whatever the process is. Switch on then off, then connect the battery cable or whatever. I don't know what the process is but just reading through it it seemed a bit ambiguous. Edit :- Ignore all of the above. I must learn to read properly before making stupid pointless and inaccurate comments. Read that as warning ignition off in the warning. I'm going to signs up for care home place.

And Corrado's can bite! Fact

Exhaust manifolds etc tightened up? Can give a right sharp crack that sounds as if the engine is aboute to explode if you have a loose bolt

I'd love to take it there mate......its just a wee bit too far away :lol: Och it's only 350 odd miles away, where's your dedication

Have a good close look at them, Masking isn't usually a perfect art and there will be signs of it having been done, especially in tricky little spots. Look for body colour on the strips or little "Missed bits" where the tape has covered the body slightly, particularly on the underside. I prefer the car with the side strips off but the grille and handles are black so I suppose I fall somewhere between the two camps, but that's what makes us individuals.

Mine went, Had an old set of the bulb thingys borrowed from a scrap yard and just followed this to replace. viewtopic.php?f=45&t=84726

I did mine on a warm day using hot water and a plastic kind of scraper thing the wife used for cooking (don't tell her, she thinks she lost it). Didn't want to use a heat gun in case I overheated something and the plastic thingy to prevent damage to the paint. If I remember correctly it took me two or three hours of going slowly to get them all off. The car still had the original paint at that point, however as mentioned elsewhere, if it had been painted since the strips may just have been masked off rather than being removed so you could end up with something rather unsightly. Examine along the strips for any signs that it may have been masked. If you're happy to proceed then do one of the smaller strips in front of the door. Just take your time and be patient.

Cheers! Just a small track on the head between cylinder 2 and a water gallery, so cams, tappets and valves out to get it skimmed tomorrow... The gasket was fine though, so Gasket: 1, Head : 0.[/quote:24ixcxzq] Now that sounds familiar. I had the same thing with mine a couple of years ago resulting in much head scratching to figure out why it was overheating (Pre Corrdo Forum days unfortunately). Twenty minutes with a 3 foot by 2 foot sheet of plate glass and some grinding paste sorted it out. 15,000 miles later and it's still as good as the day it was put back together. Total cost, a couple of beers because I was getting sweaty in the shed, but they were in the fridge anyway.

I'll second that. Years back I had a door repainted at the dealers (insurance job) and they didn't get the trim in in time. They said to take the car anyway and call back in a week when the trim would be in. Within 2 days I had a dint and I wasn't happy... They paid to get it taken out as I argued it was their fault they let the car go without finishing the job. They only really protect against other cars with "compatible" doors as it were. I found that even with them I got dinks along the line above. I just try and keep out of the way.

I had mine on, then took them off to get is sprayed. Put them back on a few months afterward but decided after a few weeks I preferred them off so did. I felt they broke the cars lines up too much and liked the cleaner look without them. It's Alpine White by the way. I suppose like all these things its a matter of personal preference. Take a few pics with them on then compare after the respray and decide whether to leave off or replace.

I'm lovin it. I have got Renaud's Phenomonon and just love the heat. Can't hold a cold beer though. It feels like I've had my hand in a fridge and lose feeling in my fingers. More sun please.

Aaww. That sounds sooo sad, Maybe it's owners a sailor and it's sitting watching for him coming home.

Could just be a bit of corrosion. Try giving the lead ends and plug tops a good clean up ans see what occurs.

well, that's the odd thing, although most headbolts are stretch bolts these days (like the VW ones) there's plenty of cars that the manufacturer specifies re-torquing after a few miles, does make me wonder if even the stretch bolts might benefit from this. Then there's the other issue of few people having regularly and properly calibrated torque wrenches anyway. The reason I do it dates back a bit, but the idea behind it was that composite gaskets settle in as it were and the re-torquing just resets everything to where it should be, same went for copper gaskets.

Quick test for the alternator. Start the car with the door open and without touching the accelerator. Watch the interior light. If it brightens up after a prod on the gas it will show if the alternator is providing volts.

Mine's an old 1.8 valver with 189,000 on the clock and my arguement is "OK It'll cost £500 quid to fix it or should I go out and spend £5000 on a new car" She who must be obeyed see's sense and I get my repair done. Find out what the worst case scenario is then hit her with appropriate figures.

I've always re-torqued the head bolts after about 500 miles cos I'm old, but there's nothing to bed in so running in isn't really necessary.

Bugger, have I slipped up? My previous car was an 88 Scala which was pretty much in pristine condition and I gave it away to a mate of a mates who was a VW nut just because I thought he would look after it and it was a good thing to do.

Well, as covered in other threads I was visited by two police offecers regarding "Assault by Motor Vehicle." One of them wants to buy the car. Later when stopped for speeding was let off with a warning with "It's a really individual car, I fancy one, is this the one that attacked the cyclist?" Ain't it amazing what a trick spoiler can do for you

The straight line fron the windscreen to the rear spoils it for me. It takes away the Corradoness and looks too much like a golf with funny clothes on.